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Copyright, 1901, by Purely, Boston. 

P. E. CKABTKEE. 



THE FIRST 



Belgian Hare 

course of instruction, 
twenty lessons. 



MI'LKTE JJlHECTIONi, FOR liUYINO, SHELTERING, EEEhlXt;. HltEEO- 
j.Ml. KILLING, SKINNING, DRESSING, C'APONlZfNG, COOK IN G. 
rURING AILMENTS, SCORING, EXHIBITING, JUDG/NG, 
SHIPPING, DEVELOPING A BUS /NESS, ETC., 

WITH .1 TRCE HISTORY OF THE liELGlAN HARE AND ACTCAL 
EXPERIENCES OF HUE E HERS, TOLD ItV THEMSELVES. 



By P. E. CRABTREE. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH PLATES FROM PHOTOGRAPHS srECIALLV 
TAKEN BY THE AUTHOR. AND PROM OTHER SOURCES. 



REVISED EDITION. 



' > so 



no S TON. .MASS.: 

NEW ENGLAND HELGIAN HARE ' ".I//'.l.\ ) . 

WOl. 



V 



THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 
Two Copies Received 

APR. 3 1901 

Copyright entry 

CLASS <J*^XXo. N<». 

COPY B. 



SF45 



C ^ 



COPYRIGHT, 1900, I'.y THE A' EW EMiLAi^D lUilJt IAS HARE (JiiMI'ASY. 
COPYRIGHT, imi, BY THE NEW ENGLAiYD liELGlAX HARE CUMI'AXV. 

ALL, RIGHTS RESERVED. 

The iUustiations in this work, as well as the work itself, are fully protecteil Inj i-opij- 
right. All rights of reproduction in any form are reserved Inj us and u-ill lie protected 
against infringement. 

NEW ENGI.ANn liEI.GIAN HARE COMI'A.W. 



T 



HE NUMBER OF THIS COURSE IS: 



^ J^, ^^clJMJ^-^ 




SPEClAIi NOTICE. 

We have designated by number the experiences furnished by breed- 
ers. We sliall be glad to fnrnish a key giving the names of these 
breeders, witli their addresses, on request from those who buy Belgian 
hares of us. >jkW ENGLAND BELGIAN HARE COMPANY. 



PREFACE. 

THE ISSUANCE of this Course of Instruction is the re- 
sult of a conclusion arrived at by careful thought, brought 
about by a combination of circumstances and conditions ex- 
isting in America and Europe, such conditions receiving my 
personal inspection and most thorough investigation both 
here and abroad. 

The prime object of the work is the furtherance of one of 
the most practical and essential industries that has ever 
come to the notice of mankind, in that it is the source of a 
most delicious meat supply, a thing entirely indispensable 
to the human race. 

It is truthfully said that of the three "necessaries of life" 
(food, clothing and shelter), the first is the prime one, and 
it is a well known fact that meat forms a major portion of 
the same. Since this be true, how necessary it be that the 
variety of which we partake be the most healthful and palata- 
ble, thus becoming transformed into pure blood, healthful 
muscle and active brain fibre to the end that we be capable of 
enjoying a happy existence, making the most out of every 
opportunity presented and leading a most prosperous and 
useful life, the memories and accomplishments of which will 
be perpetuated by future generations. 

It is needless for me here to enumerate the various kinds of 
meat foods partaken of by unsuspecting human "victims," 
and their respective peculiar transmission of scrofula, tubei'- 
culosis and cancer, their inducement of rheumatism, dropsy,.. 



VIII PREFACE 

dyspepsia and all such things, as are well known to the medi- 
cal and surgical professions to be the result, direct or indi- 
rect, of trying to transform with our assimilative organs dis- 
eased and unhealthful meat food into healthy human mech- 
anism. 

How necessary it then becomes that our meat food be sup- 
plied by an animal that is dainty in appetite, cleanly in habit 
and free from disease. From this point of consideration 
springs the secret to the great pupularity of the Belgian hare 
as a meat producer for the great hospitals, hotels and clubs, 
where he is sufficiently known, throughout the length and 
breadth of the land. 

The economic and practical features of the animal as a 
meat producer were the reason of my early becoming inter- 
ested in its personal use and its introduction to the public. 

However, the fancy has long since been considered my life- 
work and since I have brought the Belgian hare so prominent- 
ly before the public within the past four years, enthusiasm is 
unbounded in its behalf, and one can see innumerable unre- 
liable, misleading and impractical articles and fables written 
on the subject, and numerous publications delving deep in 
extravagant statements regarding the industry, prices of in- 
dividual specimens and the Belgian's possibilities as a fur 
producer. Such overdrawn statements are unnecessary, as 
the animal is amply able to stand on its honest merits, and a 
reaction follows as a reflection from overzealous. excitable 
persons who have dropped into the business intent on making 
a fortune in a year or two without work. 

This misstatement of facts concerning the little animal 
prompts me to sound a word of warning to the beginner in 
purchasing his stock of the dealer who spends more money 
in extravagant advertisements than he does in the purchase 
of the stock he sends you, and to "beware" of the advertise- 
ment that declares its proprietor to be the happy possessor 
of thousands of acres of hares in some unknown location, 



PREFACE IX 

and who has a string of "branch offices" established all over 
the universe. 

I mean nothing personal in the above remarks, and merely 
vi^ish to advise beginners to buy of reliable dealers or directly 
of breeders, whose reputation has been established, that 
your personal satisfaction direct, will result indirectly to the 
betterment and advancement of the industry. 
- My line of introduction of the hare was originally through 
organized effort, later through that and illustrated publica- 
tion, and lastly, when it required still more attention, to lec- 
ture and institute work, as well. 

Now it has reached that point where my personal attention 
is wanted in perhaps a dozen places at one and the same time, 
and that, coupled with a wrong impression regarding my In- 
stitute work, has determined me to issue this Course of In- 
struction, knowing that it will permeate local fields and touch 
places abroad that my limited time would not permit of me 
giving personal attention. 

It perhaps will be timely to state here that my work in the 
fancy is, has been and will be opposed by three classes of 
people, which I group under the following heads: (1) Ig- 
norance. It is noticeable that some people oppose my Insti- 
tute work who know absolutely nothing about it personally. 
That such is unjust I will prove by referring ones interested 
to my graduates throughout America, now numbering about 
100, and the first complaint is yet to be heard from even one 
of them. (2) Jealousy. It is a lamentable fact that the life 
of some creatures in the form of human beings is devoted to 
trying to reach the "acme" of their calling by throwing every 
body else below their level, instead of by endeavoring to build 
themselves to the top. I don't advise such course and there 
are but few people who admire it. (3) Unscrupulous dealing. 
It is plainly evident and most natural that wherever the edu- 
cational line of work on the Belgian hare goes it is op- 
posed by dealers who have sold, or wish to sell, inferior stock 



X PREFACE 

at advanced prices. Nothing is more natural. T find that in 
hundreds of instances the practice of changing animals on 
the score card or selling elaborate, inflated score cards with 
a mongrel rabbit thrown in has been practiced to an alarming 
degree and that a course of Institute work in such a locality 
is always welcomed by the conscientious breeders and is op- 
posed by unreliable parties who know that the stock misrep- 
resented by them will meet its "Waterloo" and that their lit- 
tle game is all over in that locality. In proof of this state- 
ment I advise people to watch the result of the work where I 
have gone and where I will go in the future. Take notice of 
the class of dealers who leave said localities and seek a new 
field, note that they next touch at a point where such educa- 
tional work has not yet been done, invariably, and also note 
the shifting of worthless stock and the demand for the high- 
clas type of animal that always follows in the locality of such 
instructions. 

I consider that the "cold water pouring" by the above three 
separate and distinct classes of people coupled with my ina- 
bility to be "everywhere at the same time" is reason enough 
for me to get out a publication, at this date, which will intro- 
duce the industry in the same lines and set countless thous- 
ands on the right track, who would find it impossible to take 
a personal course of instruction at present. 

The truth is, that if poultry raising is practical and profita- 
ble, Belgian hare raising is vastly more so, and I make this 
statement, not from the standpoint of one who speaks of 
what he knows not. for I have bred and exhibited 13 different 
breeds and varieties of fancy poultry, and am today a fancier 
of Barred Plymouth Rock poultry, Poland China swine, and 
Short-horn cattle, but Belgian hares are my specialty, as they 
produce the most delicious, most healthful and most econom- 
ic meat food in existence. Fraternally, 

P. B. CRABTREE. 
Denver, April, 1901. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE. 

LESSON ONE. INTRODUCTION . ; 1 

LESSON TWO. HISTORY 5 

LESSON THREE. HOW TO BUY 17 

LESSON FOUR. SHELTERING 24 

LESSON FIVE. EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 32 

LESSON SIX. HOW TO FEED 48 

LESSON SEVEN. EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 55 

LESSON EIGHT. HOW TO MATE 83 

LESSON NINE. EXPERIENCES IN MATING 85 

LESSON TEN. HOW TO CAPONIZE 106 

LESSON ELEVEN. THE MEAT MARKET 108 

LESSON TWELVE. HOW TO COOK 117 

LESSON THIRTEEN. HOW TO CURE AILMENTS 124 

LESSON FOURTEEN. EXPERIENCES IN CURING AIL- 
MENTS 128 

LESSON FIFTEEN. HOW TO MARK AND RECORD. ... 132 

LESSON SIXTEEN. EXHIBITING 135 

LESSON SEVENTEEN. JUDGING — HOW TO SCORE.. 142 

LESSON EIGHTEEN. USEFUL HINTS . 179 

LESSON NINETEEN. HOW TO DEVELOP ABUSINESS 191 

LESSON TWENTY. FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY 198 

THE SCORE CARD AT A GLANCE 212 

APPENDIX A. TO ENGLAND FOR BELGIAN HARES . . 213 

APPENDIX B. BELGIAN HARE COLOR 227 

APPENDIX C. BELGIAN HARE SHAPE 229 

APPENDIX D. THE BELGIAN HARE INDUSTRY 230 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

TITLE. PAGE. 

AUTHOR'S PORTRAIT Frontispiece 

LADY SYMMETRY 4 

DUMBLETON, ENGLISH WILD HARE 14 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 1 22 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 2 28 

SIMPLEST AND MOST COMPACT ARRANGEMENT OF 

HUTCHES , 34 

TYPE OP BELGIAN NO. 8 40 

A LABOR SAVING HUTCH ARRANGEMENT 46 

EARTHERNWARE DISHES 50 

MANGER OR RACK FOR HAY 52 

SELF FEEDER FOR OATS 54 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 4 60 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 5 70 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 6 82 

NEST OF YOUNG BELGIANS 90 

TYPE OF BELGIAN NO. 7 102 

A BELGIAN HARE PROPERLY DRESSED 112 

HOW TO MARK A BELGIAN 135 

SCORING COLOR OF BODY AND SIDES 144 

SCORING THE JAW 150 

SCORING SYMMETRY OP BODY 154 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF FLANK AND RIB 158 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF BACK 162 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF LOINS 166 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF HEAD 170 

SCORING EAR LACING 174 

SCORING SIZE OF EAR 178 

SCORING SHAPE OF EAR 182 

SCORING SIZE OF FRONT FEET 186 



SCORING SHAPE OF FRONT FEET 190 

SCORING COLOR OF HIND FEET 194 

SCORING THE NECK 198 

FULL VALUE OF EACH REQUIREMENT 204 

USUAL CUTS 208 

BREEDING CERTIFICATE 210 

STEAMER ANCHORIA BRINGING SHIPMENT OF 
HARES 216 



LESSON ONE. 
INTRODUCTION. 

NEED of instiniction in the breeding of Belgian hares is 
apparent to all. whether beginners, dealers, or those 
breeders who, by experience more or less costly, have 
Jearned what might have been theirs at the start, had 
not the industry then been in a new and unformed state. 
The ground has been gone over by so many that it would 
be a pity if the beginner could not have the benefit of their 
experiences. 

In compiling this Course of twenty lessons, the plan has 
been to secure a reliable, authoritative and indispensable 
guide for all breeders of Belgian hares, whether beginners or 
not. 

The Belgian has made great progress in this country, out 
it should not be forgotten that the industry had its birth in 
Europe, and it is principally to the breeders of England that 
we must look for the most trustworthy advice concerning the 
care of rabbit stock. The rearing of rabbits has been com- 
mon in England for many years; there are gray-headed men 
in that country who have raised prize rabbits all their lives, 
and their fathers have raised before them, and in this Course 
of Instruction these practical English breeders have been ap- 
pealed to freely. As the Belgian hare is a rabbit, and as all 
rabbits have practically the same nature, and thrive on the 
same food, and by the same methods of feeding, the com- 
piler feels that no apology is needed for giving students the 
material furnished by the best English breeders. As the 
climatic and other conditions in this country are different 
from England's, greater space in this Course is given to the 
American breeders and their ways, and we think this fea- 



2 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

tare will be found of especial value to the American breeder 
who is starting in the industry. The credit for the commer- 
cial development of the Belgian is to be given to this coun- 
try, and as that side of the subject is of greatest importance, 
a special effort has been made to make the Course practical 
and of interest to those who wish to raise Belgians for profit, 
as well as to those who desire merely to raise pet or purely 
exhibition stock. 

It has been stated by persons of limited observation and 
experience that there is considerable disagreement as to the 
proper food, mating and judging of Belgians, but this is not 
so. When the views of the experienced breeders are col- 
lected and compared, as they are in this Course, there is 
found to be no essential disagreement, except in minor mat- 
ters. In this Course the student will find a method of hand- 
ling which cannot fail to be successful. 

Every student, if he is encouraged to become a breeder, 
should make up his mind to help himself by helping others. 
He should join with other breeders and strive to further the 
advancement of the industry in every way. Belgian hare 
associations in every section of the United States either are 
formed or are being formed, snd the member is sure of find- 
ing companionship, and of receiving and giving information 
that will be of value. The quicker the industry is put on a 
solid footing, the better for all concerned. 

We shall be pleased to hear from breeders, and to know 
their experiences, and to add such experiences to future is- 
sues of this Course, if any new points of value are brought 
out. Climate and food stuffs vary with latitude and longi- 
tude, and information bearing on these points will be grate- 
fully received. 




Photograph by the Author. Copyright, 1901, hy tlie New England B. H. Co. 
LADY SYMMETRY. 
This illustrates the ideal in shape. Note the racy body, straight front feet, 
arched bacli, ear carriage, proportion of head, hold eye and firm breast. 
This stuffed mcdel is used by the author with his classes in the Ameri- 
can Institute. 



LESSON TWO. 
HISTORY. 

THE BE'lGIAN hare is not a hare, but a rabbit. 

It has an outward resemblance to the hare in the 
respects of size , and color of fur. The size is large 
and "racy"' and the fur is a similar sandy tinge, but 
there the likeness ends. 

The young of the hare are born perfect, with eyes open 
and fur on their bodies. The young of the Belgian, like the 
young of other rabbits, are born shapeless, blind, and almost 
naked. The wild hare gives birth to its young in a "form" 
on the surface of the ground. The rabbit gives birth under- 
ground, just as the Belgian would if many generati<>ns of 
captivity and nest littering had not almost obliterated its 
burrowing tendencies. 

Its was supposed that the Belgian was a cross between the 
hare and the rabbit, but that supposition was demonstrated 
to be wrong by careful experiments in mating at zoological 
gardens in France and England. Young were born from such 
mating of the hare and the rabbit, but they were mules, and 
consequently sterile. 

It is quite certain that the Belgian was originated in the 
early part of the 18th century by some students of nature, who 
set about producing a handsome and practicable domestic ani- 
mal. Taking the wild animals they combined the good quali- 
ties of each, one variety for color, another for size and still 
another for shape, making it a point to avoid undesirable feat- 
ures. They produced an animal to their liking, which they 
called a leporine. From the time of its first production the 
leporine drops out of sight until the middle of the l&th century, 
when it made its appearance in England, presumably being 



6 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

taken there from Belgium. At first it was bred more for its 
meat, but later people began to admire it tor its beauty of 
shape, and a discussion arose as to what the proper standard 
should be. In 1882 the English breeders succeeded in agreeing 
upon certain points which were formulated and published as 
the standard. We will call that the original Belgian hare 
standard. The animal was not known as a Belgian hare much 
before then. The real Belgian hare fanciers date from this 
time and their stated object was to produce an animal with 
the appearance of the beautiful English hare and having the 
easy-breeding qualities of the rabbit. Englishmen who bred 
for quantity of meat alone, leaving out of their calculations 
quality of meat and beauty of animaL settled upon the Flem- 
ish Giant rabbit. If today you take a Flemish Giant and cross 
it with the Belgian hare, and thoroughly mix the strains you 
obtain about the same animal, in size, quality, color, etc., as 
existed under the name leporine. I have met these animals 
in various parts of the country, notabiy while holding my 
Boston class in January, 1901, and the fact that they are lepor- 
ines is quite unmistakable. One of my Boston pupils told me 
he had bought some from a breeder who represented them as 
Belgian hares. In body color they were distinguishable at a 
glance from the Belgian, being of a light grayish cinnamon 
color, with little or nothing of the true rufous red, and having 
little or no body ticking, and almost no ear lacing. There was 
some black in their fur, but it was not ticking, which is the 
black ends of the hairs, but rather the middle of the hairs, 
and nothing like what the standard calls for. By condensing 
the fur between the hands, it is easy to see that an animal of 
this description has no ticking, for the condensed patch of fur 
shows no black as it always does in the case of a Belgian with 
true ticking. 

When I was judging the San Diego, Cal., show in 1900, the 
president of the club informed me that he was about to receive 
an importation of real Belgian hares from Belgium. When 
they arrived, they proved to be the leporines above described, 
being a cross between a Flemish Giant and a Belgian. They 
were of a dull grayish color with ticking on their front feet 
clear down to their toenails and would not score either as 
Flemish Giants or Belgian hares. I advised the importer to ad- 
vertise them as leporines. I know that quite a number of these 
leporines have come over from Belgium and purchasers of Bel- 
gian hares should be on their guard lest they are deceived by 



HISTORY 7 

ignorant breeders. 

No sooner had the standard been formulated in 1882 in Eng- 
land than there arose differences of opinion which found their 
expression in continuous discussion, and before long all the 
fanciers were dissatisfied with the standard. The discussion 
was kept up for seven years, until 1889, when there occurred a 
revision. The revised standard called for a Belgian more like 
the English wild hare, more racy in shape than the breeders 
had been producing, and ticked more like the wild hare, the 
ticking being distributed in ¥/aves. Other points settled upon 
were a bold eye, greater length of limb, no ticking whatever 
on either front limbs, ears or hind feet and only a small amount 
on the head. The real life of the fancy, begun with the adop- 
tion of this standard, was stimulated by its revision and has 
grown constantly since 1889. 

About 1888, Mr. E. M. Hughes of Albany, N. Y., now dead, 
brought the first Belgian hare to America and devoted the rest 
of his life to its introduction into the United States, as best he 
could. Shortly after Mr. Hughes' importation there took place 
the first organized attempt at introducing the Belgian into this 
country, by the formation of the American Belgian Hare as- 
sociation, with Mr. W. N. Richardson of Troy N. Y., as secre- 
tary. From the best information I can gather, the efforts of 
the club extended over a period of only one year. Although 
started in a liberal spirit, and with the best of intentions it 
became disorganized on account of the wide scattering of the 
membership making it difficult to obtain a quorum at meet- 
ings. 

The credit for the foundation of the fancy should be given 
to Messrs. Hughes and Richardson and Mr. G. W. Pelton of 
Barre, Mass. Messrs. Hughes and Pelton were the original ex- 
hibitors and Mr. Richardson the original publisher. The lat- 
ter's publication was known as The Rabbit. These three fos- 
tered the fancy industriously and creditably. The Belgians 
which they bred and wrote about were exhibited at poultry 
shows in New York and Boston. 

In 1897 occurred the second organized effort of the fancy at 
introducing the Belgian. It was in the nature of the formation 
of a National Belgian Hare Club of America, with headquar- 
ters at Denver, Col., myself being elected secretary. We took 
the standard as we got it from Mr. Hughes. We were con- 
fronted with many difficulties, first of which was the exact 
definition of "rich rufous red." When we came to ticking, the 



8 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

standard said "plentii'ul and rather wavy," Lut did not say 
what it Avas. We gave it the best thought of which we were 
capable and decided to import of pair through Mr. Hughes. He 
referred me to Mr. J. I. Lawrence of Worcester, Mass., who 
had furnished us with a great deal of the history of the Bel- 
gian. I asked Mr. Lawrence who was the winner of first prize 
on buck, first on doe, second on buck and second on doe at the 
Crystal Palace shows in England in 1896 and 1897. Mr. Law- 
rence replied that he could not tell, but that if I would write 
to Mr. Ernest Wilkins, Wantage, Styles & Howe, Banbury, and 
A. .J. Kilby, also of Banbury, England, I would probably learn 
the information I was seeking. To the three letters which I 
sent, I received three answers, two from Mr. Kilby, stating 
that two firms of English breeders (Styles & Howe and A. J. 
Kilby) had combined, with Mr. Kilby as manager. Both he 
and Mr. Wilkins defined rufous red as "a cherry red with 
golden shade." In further correspondence, I asked Messrs. Kil- 
by and Wilkins about the various points of the standard. We 
found out what ticking was. We became much interested and 
Mr. A. W. Gilman of Denver made up his mind he was going to 
have a fine pair of imported Belgians, and invested $100. Soon 
after, Mr. Gilman obtained the buck. Champion Yukon, called 
a champion because he had won at least five first prizes under 
at least three different judges. In Champion Yukon and his 
mate we had a good object lesson in color, ticking and shape. 
Mr. H. A. Stearns, then of Salt Lake City, imported shortly 
after that a fine lot of Belgians from England. 

We considered then, as we nave since, that the terms in 
.which the standard was expressed were not explicit enough. 
The disqualifications (lopped or fallen ears, decidedly wry 
front feet, white bars on front feet and wry tail) we arranged 
in a paragraph and placed at the top of the standard. In re- 
gard to qualifications we took 100 as the sum of perfection. 
The 100 points we covered by 29 specific requirements. These 
29 specific requirements are covered by a special list of four re- 
quirements — size, shape, color and quality — of the various sec- 
tions of the animal. 

I arranged a score card tabulating the 29 different require- 
ments in accordance with the terms of the standard and this 
score card was adopted by the national organization and is 
now in general use. The score card is simply the standard 
sub-divided, and in a comprehensive form. A judge who uses 
the score card simply jots down with a pencil the estimates 



HISTORY 9 

which a comparison judge makes but. keeps in his head, where 
they cannot be seen. The score card is an index to every part 
of the Belgian, and the judge must be able to give a reason for 
the estimate which he makes and their records, in the 29 blanks 
provided. As I will demonstrate in detail further along in these 
lessons, this manner of estimating the worth of a Belgian is of 
absolute preciseness. A score card judge, judging the same 
Belgian twice on the same day, even if a dozen animals mean- 
time disturb his memory, will arrive at the same result. It is 
impossible to rely on memory when using the score card, and 
this in a great measure safeguards the reliability of the score. 
Men"s judgments may differ, but not a man's judgment of the 
same Belgian, conditions being equal. I have found in my 
classes that when the judge understands the standard thor- 
oughly, and is taught to arrive at a certain conclusion always 
by the same mental route, his estimate of a Belgian will differ 
little or not at all from mine, and seldom more than one-half 
of one percent, even in classes which have been learning only 
10 days and started with the members absolutely green. The 
score card is mathematically precise when once the judge's 
mind and method are educated, and I know there are dozens 
of my graduates all over the country who, if the same hare 
were offered them in rotation, would score it without a varia- 
tion of more than one-half a point On the other hand, I know 
of comparison judges who differ as much as eigut points in 
their estimates of a Belgian under discussion. 

In conceiving the terms of the standard, and in talking or 
writing about them, never mix the terms sections, require- 
ments and points. 

Never mix your language in expressing your meaning by the 
words defect and disqualification. 

A disqualification prevents an animal from competing in the 
show room and deprives it of a score card in ail instances. 
Never score a Belgian which has one or more disqualifications. 

A defect is punishable on the score card. 

A section of an animal is a particular location on that ani- 
mal. 

A requirement is a necessary feature of some seciion of the 
animal. 

A point is one of the units which constitute the ideal animal. 

In the lesson on scoring, I will go into the details. My object 
In this lesson is to give simply a bird's eye view of the subject. 

This standard should be firmly fixed in the mind, for it is 



10 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

the foundation of the Belgian hare business. It is like a foot 
rule with which a man starts to build machinery. If foot 
rules were of different lengths, objects made by one workman 
would not fit into places constructed by others, and chaos 
would result. If each section of the country had its own 
way of measuring, or judging, Belgian hares, then claims, 
terms, price-lists, arguments, etc., would not mean the same, 
and ambiguity and deception would follow. 

DISQUALIFICATIONS— 1. Lopped, or fallen, ears. 2. 

White front feet or white bar or bars on same. 3. Decided- 
ly wry front feet. 4. Wry tail. Note: A specimen should 
have the benefit of any doubt. 

COLOR — Rich rufous red (not dark, smudgy color) car- 
ried well down sides and hindquarters, and as little white un- 
der jaws as possible 20 

TICKING — Rather wavy appearance and plentiful.... 15 

SHAPE — Body long, thin, well tucked up flank and well 

ribbed up; back slightly arched; loins well rounded, not 

choppy; head rather lengthy; muscular chest; tail straight, 

not screwed; altogether of a racy appearance 20 

EARS — Five inches long, thin, well-laced on tips and 
as far down outside edges as possible; good color inside and 

outside and well set on 10 

SIZE — Eight pounds 5 

EYES — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold.... 10 

LEGS AND FEET— Fore feet and legs long, straight, 

slender, well colored and free from white bars; hind feet 

as well colored as possible 10 

CONDITION— Not fat. but flesh firm like that of a race- 
horse, and good quality of fur b 

WITHOUT DEWLAP— 5 

TOTAL 100 

It will be noticed that in expressing the standard in the 
above terms, I have eliminated the word "about" in two 
places. The ears should be at least five inches long. (There 
is no punishment for excess in length.) The size should be 
eight pounds. (No punishment for excess in weight, as such. 
If an animal is too fat, the sections to be punished are those 
encroached upon, as will be explained later.) 

By ticking is meant the black ends of the hairs. If 
we examine a hair from the back of a Belgian, we will find 
the end tipped with black. So when the ticking has a wavy 
appearance and is plentiful, as the standard calls for, the 



HISTORY 11 

animal has a blackish, as well as a tawny appearance, the 
black being distributed in waves. You might think of the 
waves of the ocean having a red body, with a black surface 
where they break. The "whitecaps" of the waves of the 
coat of the Belgian are black. Get that picture fixed in your 
mind and you will have no difficulty in understanding wliat 
"ticking" is, and how it should look. 

As to dewlap, Shakespeare, you remember, said: "On 
her withered dewlap pour the ale," giving a burlesque refer- 
ence to the flesh upon the human throat when flaccid, or 
flabby, with age. As usually applied, dewlap means the 
pendulous skin under the neclt of the ox, which laps or licks 
the dew, in grazing. 

If a specimen has any one of the four disqualifications men- 
tioned, it is not good for breeding and therefore is regarded 
as worthless, good only for meat and hide, and not worth 
judging for points. Wry (twisted, distorted) front feet or 
tail would be reproduced in the progeny. 

The striking features of the Belgian are the hare-like 
shape and the rufous color. The term "rufous" may not be 
perfect, but it is better than "reddish-yellow," or "yellowish- 
red," which even more lack precision. 

R-u-f-o-u-s is a good dictionary word. It is often seen in- 
correctly spelled rufus. 

The Belgian hare is the most useful of rabbits, and that 
is why there is good reason for concentration of efforts in 
developing and beautifying him. Breeders of cattle seek to 
raise the kind that will give the most and richest milk, the 
most and best-flavored meat and the biggest and best hide. 
According to the same reasoning, the Belgian hare is being 
developed. Of all rabbits, the Belgian is the most nicely bal- 
anced with respect to pelt, smallness of bone and flavor of 
meat. 

Neither the Belgian hare, nor any other animal, would be 
bred in quantities on a large commercial scale simply for 
good looks, or adaptibility as a pet, but because it is useful 
as well as ornamental. 

The ultimate destiny of the Belgian hare is the table and 
the manufactory. 

That is why the Belgian hare industry is founded on a rock. 

If it were a fad, like the collection of rare coins, beautiful 
porcelain, tulips, or postage stamps, it would have died out 
long ago, to be engaged in only by people of wealth or leisure. 



12 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

or both, who are the favored few that can afford the aesthe- 
tic or the beautiful in preference to the useful. 

Just now, breeders of Belgians strive to keep them alive, 
because more breeders are coming forward all the time to 
get stock for a start in business, and the only Belgians that 
find their way to the table and the hat and fur factories are 
those which are rejected for breeding purposes because they 
are faulty in color, markings, shape or breeding habits. 

A rabbit still larger than the Belgian may be obtained by 
crossing it either with the Patagonian, the Flemish Giant 
or the Lop-Eared rabbit, but what is gained in weight is lost 
in extra weight of bone, quality of meat and good looks, or 
non-conformity to the accepted standard, the color being 
faulty, or something else being the matter. Still, the critic 
may say, it has more meat and a bigger pelt than the true 
Belgian. Nevertheless, breeders have agreed not to sacri- 
fice the beautiful hare-like shape and handsome color of the 
true Belgian. 

Fix the foregoing first principles and definition of terms 
firmly in mind and you will be able to comprehend intelli- 
gently the next lesson on how to buy. 




Photograph by the Author. 



By Permission of Jlr. and Mrs. .J. .S. Brothers 



DUMBJLETON, AN ENGLISH WILD HARE. 

[For Description See Opposite Page.) 

When the English fanciers first formulated the standard of breeding- 
Belgian hares, they took for their model in shape, size and some minor 
requirements the beautiful wild hare of their country. 



HISTORY 15 



DUMBLETON. 
THE upbuilding of the Belgian hare to its present standing 
in show room requirements has been so closely allied with 
the wild English hare as regards many of its most important 
characteristics that the latter becomes, for that reason, a most 
interesting specimen to the fancier. It was at the revision of 
the English standard in 1889 that the most particular stress 
was thrown on the characteristics as show in the wild hare on 
the requirements of length of limb, fineness of bone, boldness 
of eye, alert disposition and waviness of ticking. They since 
apply. In order to show just the exact type that was consid- 
ered the ideal in this respect, I decided to bring one to Ameri- 
ca, photograph him and give the public the benefit of an ob- 
ject lesson in that respect. Dumbleton was born near Ban- 
bury, England in March, 1900. By nature he is an athlete, as 
you may know by his shape. By force of habit, the exercise 
he takes keeps his muscles almost as hard as wood. He ha- 
bitually bumps his head against the top of a 26-inch hutch 
while standing flat-footed. He is kind in disposition, and will 
eat from your hand as long as you will leave him free, but the 
moment that you undertake to hold him forcibly he will squeal 
like a hog and would fight to the death. The first time I un- 
dertook to apply Belgian hare treatment to him I of course 
took him bj^ the ears and shoulders and received a cut on the 
arm over fiA^e inches in length. When nearing New York har- 
bor I began to give the shipping crates a final cleaning out 
before landing and Dumbleton got frightened at the small 
shovel which I was using and attacked my hand. I was in a 
hurry and proceeded to scrape the box, holding the door tight- 
ly against my wrist, and was shocked on withdrawing my 
hand and shovel to see that he had my hand bleeding in just 
23 places. He is a veritable Fitzsimmons. He was taken 
into captivity when about three or four weeks of age, and be- 
ing the only living specimen on exhibition in America he very 
naturally creates a great deal of curiosity and furnishes much 
amusement. I wish to call attention to the requirements after 
which we copy and can only show them to moderate advan- 



16 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

tage in this halftone, as the photographing of the beast was 
almost as big a job as the trip to England, although it did not 
require so much time. In moving him from one enclosure 
into another the only way possible to handle him without kill- 
ing him is to slip a large bag over him, then handle the bag, 
pouring Dumbleton out where you wish him transferred to. 
Of course he gives the bag a real "drubbing," but the bag 
doesn't hurt Dumbleton. and neither I nor Dumbleton would 
have any bark left on us, after about the third round, were I 
to try to handle him otherwise. 



LESSON THREE. 
HOW TO BUY. 

HAVING become interested in the Belgian hare business, 
and desirous of engaging in it. the beginner will look 
around for stock, and he will need help on how and 
where to buy. 

There are cvv^o ways of buying: First, by mail; second, by 
personal examination. 

PJ»?erybody can form his or her own opinion of what he sees 
and handles. By comparison and asking questions, you can 
get good results, and at the same time you take full responsi- 
bility. Still, shrewd and unprincipled salesmen have no diffi- 
culty in palming off inferior goods of all kinds on innocent and 
credulous shoppers. They can make a sale to some foolish 
pei'sons by enthusiastically claiming that this or that article 
is "fashionable," or they can convince others by the same glib 
tongue that stocks of a worthless company are going to pay 
dividends. The shrewdest of the confidence men depend upon 
meeting their victim personally for success. They fail when 
they write letters. The hypnotic influence of personal contact 
is missing from a letter. 

So in many respects the mail order method of buying Bel- 
gian hares is to be preferred. At this time, and this stage 
of the business, it is almost necessary, for the reliable breeders 
are scattered. A beginner who makes up his mind to buy only 
after personal examination will find himself compelled to 
make a railroau journey at more or less expense and loss of 
time, and even then he may be disappointed, for he will not 
wish to go home empty handed, and may "take anything" to 
have something to show for his pains. 

In ordering by mail, there are many advantages in favor of 



IS CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

the buyer, now. In the first place, the postal laws of the 
country are so strict that a swindler cannot conduct a business 
from his attic lodging room, hiring a cheap postoffice box, and 
giving nothing for the money of his dupes, without being 
brought up with a round turn. There are some swindles 
which the law cannot reach, but they are simple, for instance, 
the sale of a "diamond" for fifty cents. The swindler has a 
right to call his diamond a fanciful name, and may sell it, but 
only the young, foolish and credulous, or people looking for 
something for nothing, buy it. A person with any sense 
knov/s that a diamond cannot be bought for fifty cents. There 
are always plenty of people looking for something for nothing, 
and on this class the mail order sharper plays, getting as 
close to the line as he can. If these people will stop for a 
moment and consider that all business is entered into for the 
sake of a prolit somewherf:, they will see the utter absurdity 
of getting something for nothing. 

Another safeguard is the newspapers and other periodicals 
in which Belgian hare dealers advertise. Most of them will 
not tiike advertisements from an irresponsible party. Some of 
them will refund to tlieir readers money which those readers 
think has been taken from them unjustly by advertisers. Such 
periodicals make it a point to investigate the reliability and 
standing of every advertiser who applies for space in their 
columns. 

Advertising is expensive, and as a rule, the Belgian hare 
dealers w"ho advertise largely are responsible, having capital 
and business at stake, and dealings with them may be opened 
and carried on by correspondence with confidence. The buyer 
however, should not be prejudiced against the small dealers, 
many of whom are handling choice stock and attending to a 
small business carefully, and with a good knowledge of what 
they are doing. Some small dealers, having a fanciful concep- 
tion of the value of their pets, ask prices entirely out of pro- 
portion to the value of their stock. The large dealers, as a 
rule, know the state of the market and are satisfied with a 
sm.alier profit than those who have only a few Belgians. 

Do not forget that a reputable dealer in Belgian hares is 
anxious to please you. A pleased customer is the best adver- 
tisement. If the buyer is not treated well by the dealer, he 
will tell his friends, and they will tell others, and tne whole 
neighborhood soon Avill be on guard against trading with the 
man who failed to please. On the other hand, let a dealer be 



HOW TO BUY 19 

honeat; and represent liis stock just as it is, and he will find 
orders coming in from people who have personal knowledge of 
his squareness in treating others. 

Look out for the sharper who is anxious to sell anything 
with four legs and a pair of ears that looks like a hare. The 
I)rospect of getting rich quick by selling all kinds of stock at 
high prices tempts the unscrupulous to dispose of anything. 
Be sure you get a sound, healthy specimen from a reliable 
dealer. 

It is not practicable for the beginner to import his own 
hares, if he is determined to start with an imported selection, 
but he can deal on this side of the Atlantic with an importer 
and accomplish his purpose just as well. 

Remember, in buying, that the label does not make the 
goods. An imported hare may be as worthless as the most 
worthless scrub in America. 

In buying, the test, is, does the animal measure up to the 
standard stated and explained in the preceding lesson? The 
nearer it comes to scoring 100 points, the more valuable it is, 
provided, of course, that it is in a healthy condition, and 
reared safely to maturity. 

Now a word about scoring. You might think you were quali- 
fied to be a good judge of points. You would take the hare out of 
the dealer s hutch, place it on a table, take out your pencil and 
notebook and mark up the points of the animal. Suppose you 
were generally pleased, and arrived at a score of 94. You 
might say you felt like buying the hare, and the dealer, if he 
wished to make a sale regardless of principle, might say: "You 
are right; it is a great hare; my judgment makes the score 95 
points. I think it is Avortli fully $100." 

You should ask the dealer what he means by "his judging." 
Some dealers lia-^'e so-called "judges" of their own who, for 
some reason, i:«robably because they are in the employ and pay 
of their patrons, put wonderfully high scores on Belgians 
belonging to said patrons, but remarkably low scores on the 
Belgians of rival dealers. Beware of such "judges." They 
are mercenaries and will put a score on an animal in propor- 
tion to the size of their fees. 

The true judge is a man of honor and principle, as well as 
extraordinary good judgment. He must not only be well- 
meaning and square in his dealings, but also of quick percep- 
tion, and skilled in the art of detecting tricks. The ideal 
judge would be a gentleman of culture, experience and stand- 



20 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ing, financially entirely independent of the Belgian hare busi- 
ness. Such men are hard to find. An admirable substitute is 
the thoroughly reliable, trustworthy gentleman, poor, maybe, 
but determined to do the square and the honorable thing at all 
times. 

We will have iQore to say about judges and judging in a 
special lesson. The point which we wish to make clear now, 
and to emphasize, is, that the buyer must make sure that the 
judge who scored the animal he wants was a reliable one, 
and that the points for which he is paying good money will 
maintain their value in fair competition. An exhibition under 
the direction of a reliable society is a good test. Belgians 
judged in such places, with full publicity and criticism, are 
more reliable than those judged when not in competition. 

The Belgian hare associations will do their most important 
work in the registration of judges and pedigrees. The stricter 
the discipline and the surer the punishment, the more reliable 
will both judges and pedigrees become. 

Do not be fooled by pedigrees, and do not be guided wholly 
by them. You woula not feel cheerful to pay quite a sum for a 
wonderful pedigree, and find on getting your Belgian from the 
express company that it was a sickly animal which had con- 
tracted disease since the recording of its pedigree. Remember 
that you are buying an animal, as well as a pedigree. 

Get a fair foundation and trust to yourself for improvement. 

You can improve your stock at any time by sending one of 
your best does away to be bred to a prize buck. 

Don't figure that you Avill put $100 into a doe and $100 into a 
buck, and that in six months you will have forty Belgians 
v/orth $100 apiece. Such reasoning may look all right on 
paper, but it is misleading. 

Start with as good stock as you can afford without using up 
all your resources. Leave a little money for emergencies. 
Use ordinary business common sense. If you have only $10, 
and feel that you want to start, it is better to buy two bred 
does at $5 than one at $10. In the course of a few months, you 
will be able to sell meat stock enough to pay for a fancy buck 
or the fee of breeding a high-scoring buck to your best doe. 

If the Belgians which you have bought have been exposed 

during shipment to extraordinary variations of weather, or if 

they were shipped by unscrupulous dealers, they may have the 

snuflies (otherwise known as cabarrh, or influenza) when they 

arrive. If they are running at the mouth, they have the slob- 




Photograph by the Author. 



Copyright, 1901, by the New Euglaiul B. H. Co. 
TYPE NO. 1. 



Large doe, very fine in boue, moderately coarse in ear, well-colored feet, but 
avery full-breasted animal, the result of large dewlap, which should al- 
ways be avoided as much as possible. 



HOW TO BUY 23 

bers. If either nose or mouth is running, or the animals are 
sneezing, or reiusing food, turn over these lessons until you 
come to the one on diseases, and you will see how to treat 
them. Belgians shipped by reputable dealers have neither the 
snuffles, slobbers nor pot bellies. If your purchase shows any 
bad symptoms, give the dealer the benefit of the doubt and by 
careful feeding for a few days strive to cure, meantime writing 
the facts to the dealer of whom you purchased. As a rule, 
Belgians which are healthy when shipped will remain healthy. 
The express companies have no difficulty in handling them. 
The Khipper sends a bag of oats and hay with the box to the 
express company and during the journey the express com- 
pany's employes feed and water the animals. 

Do not be frightened if the does have a little dewlap, in some 
cases. Such does, it is found, make good mothers. The body 
should be long, and the back should rise in a well-moulded 
curve. The belly should be well up, not pot or fatty, 

and the animal should have the clean lines suggestive of the 
thoroughbred race-horse. The startled look of the eyes is 
characteristic. The eye should be bright and bold. 

When you have ordered your stock, and are awaiting its ar- 
rival, you ought to be getting the box or hutch ready, and this 
will be the subject of our next lesson. 



LESSON FOUR. 
SHELTERING. 

BEFORE your Belgians arrive, make ready a home for 
them. The interval of time between ordering and the 
receipt of the animals can be employed to good ad- 
vantage in building a box or hutch. 

There are certain fundamental rules which must be fol- 
lowed, and observation of model rabbitries will convince one 
that the best breeders are agreed on a simple form of hutch 
for a unit which may be multiplied as many times as desired 
as the Belgians increase in number. 

Do not be deluded into believing that you can invent a 
hutch that will be self-cleaning, or one that will do away with 
attention in the matter of cleanliness. Some amateurs have 
planned a hutch of a so-called self-cleaning pattern, the chief 
characteristics of which are, first, a wire screen on which is 
laid the hare's bedding, and, second, a zinc-lined drawer im- 
mediately underneath into which the urine percolates and the 
dung falls. In practice, it is found that it is as much trouble 
to keep the zinc-lined drawer sweet as if the hare sat in the 
drawer, and besides, the animal's hocks are liable to become 
sore through contact with the wire screen. 

Bear in mind that it is the urine, and not the dung, which if 
neglected, will give rise to a foul odor. The dung gives little 
or no trouble. When the Belgians are in their ordinarily 
healthy condition, it is hard and may be removed without diffi- 
culty. 

No matter what you provide or build, be sure it is off the 
ground, so as to keep out dampness, and have holes in the top, 
or at the tops of the sides, to let pure air in and bad air out. 

Belgians may be kept out of doors all the year round, except 



HOW TO SHELTER 25 

in places where the thermometer remains below zero for days 
at a time. In winter it is necessary to give them plenty of 
warm bedding. In the Northwest, does have kindled in the 
•coldest days of midwinter safely. The Belgian is a hardy ani- 
mal. If a poultry house is used, or an upstairs room, do not 
feel obliged to provide artificial heat, no matter where you 
live. Cold is not harmful, so long as there are no draughts. 
The sides of the hutch always should be closed at the bottom, 
if they are open at the top, so that the occupants will be pro- 
tected In winter, a strip of canvas or carpeting hung over 
the wire front of the hutch, to keep off the winds and snow, 
will be found ample protection. 

There should be a rack in each hutch for hay, and a feeding 
trough or dish, and water should be given in crockery dishea 
Do not use tin dishcb for drinking water, except when shipping 
hares (when they are in use only a short time). 

Set the hutch in a dry, cool place. Sunlight at certain parts 
of the day, but not the hot rays all the time, will do no harm. 

My practice concerning hutches is different from what it 
was when I started in the Belgian hare industry. I believe 
in smaller ones now than I did then. The Belgians do better, 
the expense is less and the care of the hutches is reduced to 
a minimum. 

The hutch for the breeding doe should be three feet broad, 
two and one-half feet high and three and one-half feet deep 
or long. Half of the front should be of wire, one-inch mesh, 
hinged door, the other half boarded up. In the centre of the 
boarded up portion take out one of the boards, from top to 
bottom of the front, and put it on hinges, making a door. The 
use of this door in the solid front of the hutch will be ex- 
plained later. 

For a nesting box, there is nothing better than what is 
known in the western part of the United States, and is found 
in every grocery store there, as a coffee case. It is 22% 
inches long, 13 14 inches high and 11 inches wide. The top or 
lid is fastened on with two nails and is easily taken off. Tear 
■ofi the front of the case and set this open front in the forward 
part of the hutch directly behind the boarded front, with its 
door. At the rear of the coffee case cut a hole four and one- 
half inches wide and seven inches high. Be sure this hole 
extends clear to the floor. Leave the lid on the box. This 
forms a shelf for the doe to jump upon when her young nag 



26 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

her, as they will when over three weeks old. The hutch is 
high enough so that there will be room for the doe to sit on 
top of the nesting box without bumping her head oh the top 
of the hutch. There are cleats on the under side of the cof- 
fee case which are just what is needed to provide a small 
dead air space between the bottom of the coffee case and the 
floor of the hutch, and keep the urine out of the nest. 

The object of the hole in the back of the nesting box is to 
provide a means of egress and ingress for the doe, and it 
should be cut clear to the floor, so that the youngsters, if 
they crawl out of the nesting box, as they frequently do. e\^en 
when blind and barely able to crawl, can feel their way by in- 
stinct back to the nest. If there is a cleat or other projection 
which has not prevented them from falling out of the nest, 
but which does prevent them from getting back into the nest, 
they will be obliged to stay out on the floor of the hutch, 
where they will starve, or in winter, freeze to death. 

The doe, when she builds her nest, goes as far as she can 
from the light, and from what she reckons is the place for 
interference. In other words, she enters the hole at the back 
of the box and proceeds clear to the front of the box to build 
her nest. This is just what the breeder wants, and which he 
takes advantage of by the arrangement of nesting box and 
hutch above described. By opening the door in the middle of 
the solid front of the hutch, the nest is discovered close at 
hand, only the breadth of the fingers from the front of the 
hutch, and the easiest place imaginable for inspection. While 
the doe is out of the nesting box, the front door of the solid 
part of the front of the hutch may be opened and the young 
inspected, dead ones being removed, if there are any. 

This arrangement of nesting box and hutch is the simplest 
and best. It is far better than a nesting box at the back of 
the hutch, the interior of which can be reached for inspection 
only by pulling the box forward and lifting a lid at top or door 
at side. By the arrangement described, it is not necessary to 
disturb the nesting box at any time. 

In a hutch arranged this way, I have never had any trouble 
with the doe or young. I have taken the young out and han- 
dled them in sight of the doe, and she has never objected. I 
have seen the statement that the doe will eat the young if 
they are handled, but I never saw a case of that kind. If the 
doe destroys her young there are other causes for it. 










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HOW TO SHELTER 2& 

At six weeks, when the young are weaned, take them from 
the doe's hutch and place them in a rearing hutch, both sexes. 
This rearing hutch has no nesting box and is a little smaller 
in frontage that the breeding hutch. It should be two feet 
wide, two feet high and four feet deep. Make the floor of 
fencing, which is three or four inches wide, unmatched, and. 
when laying it leave between each board on open air space 
the width of a pencil. Set the boards so that they will run 
from front to back. Incline the floor slightly, making it one- 
half inch lower at the back than at the front, so that the ten- 
dency of he drainage will be toward the back. The young- 
sters will go to the back of the hutch to urinate and deposit 
dung. In a new hutch, or in case of every new litter, take 
some fresh dung and urine on a shovel and smear the floor 
at the back of the hutch. This ought to lead all the litter to 
the back of the hutch. 

The flooring should project half an inch at the front of the 
hutch, to make cleaning easy. Take a straight garden hoe 
and scrape the dirt towards the front, where you have a pail 
or bucket for it to drop into. 

The object of the spaces the width of a pencil bejween the 
floor boards is to allow of a circulation of air. This circula- 
tion is not enough to cause a draught. It is just enough to 
dry up the urine and carry off all odor. The urine runs onto 
and around the boards, but does not drip down upon the Bel- 
gians in the hutch underneath. It is not necessaiT to put a 
layer of sawdust in the bottom of the hutch. Sawdust sat- 
urated with urine quickly becomes foul and unpleasant. By 
the circulation of air obtained through means of the arrange- 
ment described, there is never any trouble experienced from 
urine. 

The hutches should be in tiers, three high, the lower hutch 
being raised eight inches from the ground. 

I believe in outdoor rabbitries every time, no matter how 
cold the climate. I never have had any snuflles or other 
sickness in my rabbitry at Denver, where the thermometer 
in winter time frequently drops to 24 degrees below zero. It 
is a mistake to house Belgians in an air-tight place, artificially 
heated, or heated by the warmth of their bodies at night and 
cooled by fresh air in the day time. It is the difference in 
day and night temperature of closed rabbitries which causes 
sickness. I was a poultry fancier for many years before tak- 



30 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ing up Belgian hares, and I learned then that all the ills of 
poultry are caused by a poultry house which is shut at night 
and open in the day time. 

A hollow square or rectangle is a good arrangement for a 
rabbitry. A shed with three sides enclosed, the third side 
open and facing the south, is the best arrangement. That 
rabbitry in England which breeds the healthiest animals is 
in the form of a hollow square, open the year round. I heard 
no sneezes at that rabbitry. The heavy fogs in England, es- 
pecially in the winter time, bank up on the ground and are al- 
most as tangible as a light snow storm, but they cause the 
open air breeder no anxiety. He simply closes half of the 
open front of each hutch with a sheet iron movable screen or 
shield. 

If you have a sneezing Belgian, put him in a free, open air 
hutch and it will cure him, if the case has not gone so far as 
to be incurable. It is a waste of time, and a mistake, to doc- 
tor sneezing Belgians continually with medicines. 

If a heavy storm comes up, or extremely cold weather, I have 
pieces of galvanized iron (which pack away easily) two feet 
by one in size. By hanging them on the front of the hutches, 
I shut off half the air, and the animal has no trouble in keep- 
ing warm. Youngsters warm each other. If there is only one 
buck Belgian in the hutch, give him a nest. If there is a doe, 
she has a nesting box and nest. 

There is only one time to watch an outdoor hutch, and that 
is when the weather is extremely cold and the doe is about 
to kindle. Were she to give birth to her young with the ther- 
mometer much below zero, even in the warm interior of the 
nesting box, there would be a chance that the moisture of 
kindling time would freeze. To avoid all chance of such 
freezing, a doe about to kindle in freezing weather should he 
taken into the barn or cellar. You may take back her and 
her litter to the outdoor brood hutch four days after she has 
kindled. 

An outdoor rabbitry should be protected against intruders, 
particularly burglars. Build a fence 10 feet away from the 
open side of the rabbitry and carry it around each end so as 
to make a hollow rectangle. There should be a door or gate 
at one end. Place a spring and a catch on this gate so that 
it will fly open if the catch is released. Arrange an electrical 
circuit so that the opening of the gate will give an alarm. 



HOW TO SHELTER 31 

The arrangement known as the "closed circuit" is best; then 
you will get an alarm even if a wire is cut or broken. The 
alarm bell may be at the head of your bed. The current may 
be furnished by two or three cells of a closed circuit, blue 
vitriol battery, such as is used in telegraphy, and which you 
may see at any telegraph office. These cells cost about 60 
cents apiece, complete. Take a small copper wire and stretch 
it the whole length of your rabbitry, fastening one end to the 
fence, the other to the catch of the door. This wire may be 
hung on hooks out of the way during the day time and 
dropped into place at night. This is for the purpose of giving 
an alarm if anybody climbs the fence or gets into your rab- 
bitry by any means other than the sate. Should an intruder 
climb the fence, he will strike the wire. If he cuts it or 
breaks it gently, he will break the circuit and you will get 
an alarm. If he strikes it, the catch of the gate will be re- 
leased and the gate will fly open, and the circuit opened, thus 
giving an alarm. 

This arrangement is so effective that an alarm will be given 
by the body of a cat striking the wire. A cat has awakened 
me in this manner several times. It is impossible for a bur- 
glar to enter without an alarm being given. If you use an 
open circuit battery, the burglar may outwit you by cutting 
a wire, but he is powerless in the case of the closed circuit. 

Anybody with a smattering knowledge of electricity may 
run the wires successfully. Two pieces of spring brass, or the 
interior of the common push button may be used on the gate 
for a contact breaker. Your battery is not in use during the 
day, but only at night, and will last indefinitely with occa- 
sional renewal of solution. 

Breeders call the wire stretched through the centre of the 
rabbitry a "trip." 



LESSON FIVE. 
EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING. 

No. 1 — "My hutches (outside ones) are simply ham or 
bacon boxes. I use whole ones for my breeding hutches, and 
divide into two compartments, by means of a partition, for the 
use of two single inmates. I make my doors of solid one-inch 
matched flooring boards, and bore a row of three-fourths inch 
holes opposite the top of each compartment, in order to allow 
each occupant as much fresh air as possible. I place the ven- 
tilation holes at the top of the compartments so that the air 
will go in over, instead of at the inmate. For inside hutches, 
I simply build or partition next a wall. I allow each adult 
rabbit not breeding 36 inches by 20 inches, and 20 inches deep; 
for youngsters, five or six together, 36 inches by 36 inches, and 
20 inches deep, and for breeding does, about the same extent. 
I do not use either false or sloping bottoms, but simply plain, 
smooth, pine ones." 

No. 2 — "It has been considered by many ignorant people, 
not belonging to the fancy particularly, that any kind of 
hutch, situated in almost any unhealthy corner, is good enough 
— which, in course of time, turns out to be a great mistake. It 
should be remembered that human beings enjoy better health 
when their homes are made comfortable, in airy localities, and 
with plenty of ventilation; and this rule applies to the proper 
hutching of rabbits. I keep my rabbits in an outhouse. My 
hutches are in double tiers and are made of boxes in which 
toys are packed. I prefer these to bacon boxes, which are 
generally saturated with fat and salt, while toy boxes are 
made of good, clean wood and are free from unpleasant smells 
and dirt. These boxes are of various sizes, and if the fancier 
prefers to have his hutches made fixtures, he cannot do better 



EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 35 

than buy the large size toy boxes, which he can cheaply utilize. 
My hutches are movable. For single rabbits, a box measuring 
4 feet 10 inches long, S feet 4 inches high and 3 feet wide, can 
be divided by a wooden partition, and this would give suffi- 
cient room for two rabbits not used in breeding. The hutches 
for breeding are of tiie same dimensions, but without a divi- 
sion; and inside of these hutches I put a small box for a kind- 
ling box, while I have others of them with a little divisional 
breeding compartment at one end. But I like the former plan, 
because when you want to examine the litters of your breed- 
ing does a movable box is more convenient, as it can be lifted 
out of the hutch without much annoyance to the doe. These 
hutches have small-sized wire netting fronts, with one end 
fronted with wood, in order to make them a little darker op- 
posite the breeding box. When hutches of this description are 
made, they should be well white-washed inside; and after they 
have got saturated with excrement, the floor should be well 
washed with hot water and carbolic acid, and kept empty for 
a few hours until the odor of the acid has evaporated, when 
the hutch will be sweet again for the little tenants. The fan- 
cier should always place his hutches so that the north and 
east winds will be avoided, and to escape all draughts. In the 
winter, I have light wooden shutters, to reach within 6 inches 
or 8 inches of the wire-door top, sufficient to give plenty of 
fresh air; and an old sack may be nailed over the open part 
in any severe weather, taking care not to exclude the fresh air, 
which is highly necessary to promote health in the rabbitry. 
Badly-ventilated hutches are very injurious, and where too 
many rabbits are kept together, the effect is fearful." 
No. 3 — "To insure health, there is no reason why any rab- 
bitry should not, with due care, be as free from disagreeable 
smells as any well-arranged stable in the care of a competent 
groom. After a hutch has been cleaned, a sprinkling of pine 
sawdust, which contains much turpentine, is useful, and acts 
as a disinfectant, to a certain extent. If the rabbits are kept 
in outside hutches, care should be taken to give them a south 
aspect, if possiole. As previously mentioned, shutters for use 
in the winter weather must be provided, and ventilation, which 
should always be above the head of the rabbit, must not be 
forgotten. The roof should be well slatted and pointed and it 
should project three inches at both front and back, as warmth 
is of great importance, and perfect protection from cold winds 
must be secured. The projecting eaves greatly shelter the in- 



36 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

side of the hutch from driving rain and wind." 

No. 4 — "When we started in the Belgian hare business, 
we began in a small way one spring. When fall came, we had 
between 30 and 40 hares cooped up in covered wire runs, each 
about 12 feet square and three feet high, with a box inside 
about two feet square that could be used by hares when 
stormy, or by the does for nests. Later in the fall, as it began 
to grow colder, we were rather perplexed as to what kind of 
a rabbitry it was most advisable to build in which to winter 
the stock. We finally remodeled a poultry house in the fol- 
lowing manner: To begin with, the house was 21 feet long, & 
feet wide, 5 feet high at the front, 7 feet high at the ridgepole 
and 6 feet high at the back; the board floor a foot from the 
ground, and the door at one end. next to back. We took the 
boards off the five-foot side and covered that side with our 
inch -mesh wire. We then made a second floor 2% feet above 
the one already there. This second floor ran the length of 
the house, was 4V2 feet wide and was made of matched boards. 
We partitioned off the two floors we now had and made 14 
pens, seven on a floor, each pen being 4% feet deep and three 
feet wide at the open wire front, and 2i/^ feet high. The parti- 
titions between the pens were boarded up for about a foot, and 
th rest was covered with one -inch mesh wire. In back of 
these pens we had left a space running the length of the house 
and 3^/2 feet wide, where we could keep supplies. The doors 
in the different pens were made of a framework covered with 
wire. These doors were 2i/^ feet high and 3 feet wide, and 
opened into the alley way inside of the house. In each pen 
we had a nest box 12 inches wide and 18 inches long, with a 
hole about 6 inches square in one side. We use sawdust on 
the floors, cleaning twice a week, feed principally on second 
crop hay, oats and water, besides a few old vegetables. In 
this way, with an open front house, we wintered our stock, 
breeding the does every two months. They stood the two 
great storms and all the cold weather without any trouble, 
were never sick, and we lost only one or two very young ones. 
We think this shows pretty clearly that the Belgian hare is 
very hardy and will stand, and breed in very cold weather. We 
sustained no heavy losses until hot weather came, but even 
then we got along fairly well." 

No. 5 — "An inexpensive place may be provided by build- 
ing a frame shed if there is no old one that can be used, A 
shed 10x20 feet is large enough for quite a number of hares. I 



EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 37 

have Irequently had as many as 60 old and young in one of 
that size. Some preier a shed with three sides enclosed and 
open on the east, with a curtain to ^rop down when it is cold 
and stormy. A cheap hutch may be made by taking a large 
dry goods box, say about 3x4 feet, 2 feet high. Take out one 
side. Make a door about half the size of one-inch mesh poul- 
try netting. Let the door come clear to the bottom of the 
box so as to be easy to clean out the hutch, which should be 
done every two or three days. Inside of this large box put a 
small box 12x14x20 inches for a nest box. In the back end of 
this cut a hole about 6 inches square for the doe to enter. 
This box should be put at the front of the hutch on the side 
not used for the door. Board up the half of the front beside 
the door with a small door into the nest box so the nest can be 
got at readily. Give the doe plenty of good, clean straw about 
two weeks before she is due to kindle. She will build her nest 
with the straw and line it with fur pulled from her own body. 
Sometimes, if the weather is cold, they will not pull fur 
enough to keep the young warm, and they are chilled to death. 
After one has killed a hare for meat and saved the pelt, this 
can be remedied by cutting the fur from the dry pen, and put- 
ting it in the nest the day the doe is due. Many valuable lit- 
ters have been saved this way. These instructions are only 
for the beginner v.'ith but little money to start. A fancier 
with ample means at his disposal can build his rabbitry and 
hutches to suit his fancy." 

No. 6 — "Light, air and ventilation are the three require- 
ments absolutely necessary to life, vigor and health. And this 
applies to the Belgian hare as well as mankind, rioused in a 
small, dark, ill-ventilated bandbox Avith never a ray of God's 
sunshine, and most of the time rank with filth, is it any won- 
der that the owner spends half of his time dosing his hares to 
keep them alive?" 

No. 7 — "It is one of the fundamental principles of venti- 
lation that air does not circulate and flow freely from point to 
point unless openings are so arranged as to allow free ingress 
of air and a free outlet for air. To make it still plainer, the 
air in such a hutch simply banks up in the hutch and becomes 
and remains foul. If any one doubts this statement, let him 
simply place his head inside such a hutch, well towards the 
back wall, and breathe the air for a moment. He will be con- 
vinced in short order. The air soon becomes foul, and as if 
has no means of purifying itself by a fresh current in any di- 



38 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

reclion, it remains foul all the time. As fm-ther proof of this, 
observe your hares ia such a hutch. They lie close to the 
wire netting in front, and are trying to get a whiff of fresh 
air, which they stand so much in need of. The way to remedy 
this is to cut off the back wall of your hutcn about four inches 
down the back, beginning at the top and cover opening with 
wire, or arrange a door to swing down from top of hutch so 
it can be opened. As a matter of fact, it should remain open 
all the time. If the hutches are made of chicken wire all 
around, this objection does not hold. In the warm 
climates a building with good height if ceiling (ten feet is 
none loo high to afford good ventilation), with a double roof 
(with air space between roofs) for free ventilation, without di- 
rect draughts, is the ideal home for the Belgian. Take your 
windows out of rabbitry entirely m summer on south side and 
east of rabbitry, replacing them with strong wire screens (not 
fly screens, but heavy screens such as banking rooms use) and 
these will admit plenty of fresh air, and keep out dogs and bur- 
glars. Then arrange outlets on the side walls near the ceiling, 
for the foul air. Remember, warm foul air rises, and if you 
get the currents of air going in the right direction, you will al- 
ways have fresh air, without draughts. Place the hutches out 
of the direct current of air, but where the air will sweep 
around them, and your bunnies will take on new life, and be as 
happy as clams at high tide. The same kind of house is appli- 
cable to the cold climate, with the addition that walls can be 
lined with paper in very cold weather, to keep out severe cold, 
but still arrange for ventilation even in cold weather. Bel- 
gians enjoy cold vv^eather, even a temperature of forty below, 
if kept in a dry, warm place. As to the necessary hygiene 
of the hutch itself, there is a chance for great improvement. 
For the hutch made with a flat floor, straw as litter is best for 
warm weather, because bunny loves to brush the straw one 
side and stretch himself out at full length on the bare floor. 
It is cooler and he enjoys it very much. For winter, on the 
flat-floored hutch, a layer of clean sawdust with straw over 
that is the best. The droppings fall through the straw, and 
leave a clean, dry place. The sawdust alone soon becomes 
wet and dirty, and the animal is compelled to walk and lie in 
this dirty, wet litter. Change such hutches at least once a 
week. Take the hare out. Clean out thoroughly. Scrub it 
out with soap and hot water. Allow it to dry thoroughly, and 
then sprinkle some good disinfectant all over the side walls. 




riiotnt;rai)li by tljr Aiitlioi-. (.■opyviglit, I'.iOl. Iiy tlie Ni'W Entiliuid r.eltiinn Hare Co. 

TYPE >0. -.i. 
A neat little animal, miusually trim and clean in shape of neck and breast. 
Front feet are somewhat defective in shape. Eye is good, but ears are 
rather spoon shaped, which is not a desirable feature. 



EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 41 

Fuve water is essential. Hares are great water drinkers. Have 
a nice, clean pail for watering your hares. Do not use the 
slop or mop pail to water them with and then wonder they are 
sick." 

No. 8 — "We secured a large number of packing cases 
from the merchants of our city free of charge; the business 
men seemingly glad to have them taken out of their way. Of 
these boxes we used only the largest for hutches, 3x4 feet be- 
ing the size preferred, tearing the smaller ones to pieces and 
using the boards for roofing. After knocking out the front 
side of the box, a board one foot high was nailed along the top 
edge, and extending upwards. Boards were nailed to this, 
slanting back to the rear of the hutch, and this roof was cov- 
ered with tar paper, the roof boards being allowed to extend 
out from the hutch about one foot, both front and rear. This 
gives you a splendid tight roof for shedding the rain, and also 
a large air space between the two roofs. For the door, we se- 
cured pine strips 1x2 inches and made a frame over which was 
stretched one-inch mesh wire. This door is hung with com- 
mon strap hinges, and fastened with a button. Each hutch is 
also supplied vfith a heavy oiled muslin curtain, for cold or 
stormy weather, which is fastened with buttons and can be 
rolled up and fastened under the roof with a strap, similar to a 
carriage curtain. For the nest boxes, we used the smaller 
boxes gathered in our trips, such as those used for crackers, 
shoes, etc., about 12x18 inches, and a foot high. A board ten 
or twelve inches high, sawed from opposite corners, and nailed 
to the edges of the box, gives a nice slant. Near the top of the 
box proper are fasetned cleats on which a false roof rests, and 
in cold weather this space between the two roofs is packed 
tightly with hay or sti'aw. The cover is made large enough to 
extend over the nest boxes two or three inches, and extends up 
under a one-inch cleat nailed to the hutch, to which it is 
hinged after being covered with tarred paper. The hutches 
are all provided with buttons, fastened to the side, for holding 
the feed and water dishes, and we find that this saves consid- 
erable in the cost of feed, doing away with the loss necessi- 
tated by loose dishes being tipped over and the grain scat- 
tered in the litter For feed boxes we use cigar boxes, the 
small and shallow kind. It is a well-known fact that Belgians 
will stand cold far better than heat, and with its curtained 
front this hutch is plenty warm enough for the most severe 
weather, and the double roof, with the air space between, gives 



42 CRABTREB'S INSTRUCTIONS 

a fine circulation of air continuously during the hottest days 
of summer." 

No. 9 — "It is quite plain to me that Minnesota breeders 
are too fearful lest their animals take cold, and are altogether 
too precautious about a little fresh air getting to them. I find 
doors at the rabbitries nearly closed all the time, all well as 
the windows, and one would think from the way a draught, 
however slight, is feared, that they were expecting a draught 
from Greenland would creep in upon them at any time if an 
opening were left. While we believe a certain amount of care 
should be given to Belgians on their arrival from the coast, yet 
the difference in climate is not so great as to necessitate the 
extreme precautions v>'hich we find everywhere. No wonder 
there are snufiles and sneezes, for where they are housed so 
closely the least draught causes them to sneeze, the same as an 
infant that has been cared for in the same way and suddenly 
gets a breath of a nor'-west breeze. The sooner the breeders 
get the idea of the Belgian being a fur-bearing animal and not 
of necessity requiring a blanket at this season of the year, and 
begin to give them lots of air, in fact, better have a number of 
runways out doors, where a number can be put eacli day, the 
better prepared they will find their stock to stand our coming- 
winter. We always have plenty of winter, and the idea of 
having pampered your Belgians to such an extent that our 
summer weather causes them to take cold if exposed in the 
least makes us smile when we think how they will shiver and 
shatter their teeth a few months later. Do these breeders pre- 
sume to think they are going to provide artificially heated 
quarters for their Belgians this winter? If so, I want to dis- 
courage this idea in every possible way. Isn't it ridiculous to 
suppose that a fur-bearing animal whose fur fulls, or sheds, 
according to the season, should require an artificially 
heated place of habitation in the Minter time? You will find 
that they will not thrive nearly so well under such conditions, 
as those who have houses, or hutches, built on a plan suitable 
to the winters we always have. Mark my prediction that an 
artificially heated rabbitry will be as conducive to snuffles and 
sniffles as a hen house on the same plan is to roup and swelled 
head, or similar diseases, because the fowls are made tender 
and subject to every little draught that creeps in upon them 
by being kept under conditions that are not natural." 

No. 10 (with illustration) — "Cleanliness is one of the most 
important matters the hare breeder has got to look out for. 



EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 43 

The reasons are many. First and most important the neat, 
clean rabbitry will be selling hares when the dirty, unsani- 
tary dry goods box establishment will be complaining that 
the hare business is a fraud and no one wants a Belgian hare 
even if given to him, which would be so in a great many 
cases from that kind of an establishment. Second — No hu- 
man, animal or fowl thrives on filth, not even a hog. Filth 
breeds disease, wherever you find it. Disease costs money 
wherever it gets a foothold, and you get no returns for 
money thus spent. So watch the cause and pay but little at- 
tention to cures, and you will always come out a winner. 
Third, and not last by any means, the true fancier will take 
as much pride in the cleanliness of his rabbitry as he does 
in the various good points in his Belgian hares. Now the ques- 
tion is how to build a rabbitry and hutches so it can be kept 
clean and in the proper sanitary condition with the least pos- 
sible work. NineJtenths of the Belgian hare breeders will be 
people who have other work to do which takes up their time 
except the few minutes devoted to the hare night and morn- 
ing, which by the way is my own case. Therefore, I have 
built to suit all conditions for my own convenience, which I 
have found highly satisfactory. I will give you a cut of one 
row of hutches, together with a description of how they are 
arranged. My building is 24 feet long by 12 feet wide, run- 
ning east and west, with a shed roof tipping to the north; 
the north side is seven feet high and the south side nine feet 
high. I put a partition in the centre, making two rooms 12 
feet square, and a door three feet wide in the centre of each 
room, opening to the south. On each side of the doors I 
built hutches three feet high and four feet long, making 24 
hutches in each room; each hutch has a depth of three and 
one-half feet, with a frontage of three feet wide and 22 inches 
high. The bottom floor is 18 inches above the ground, and 
each succeeding floor 22 inches above that. I have two sets 
of hay racks arranged for each set of 12 hutches, as you can 
see by the inside view of my rabbitry. The rack for the hay 
is the same on both sides, so by opening one door you can 
feed hay to six hutches. The door to the hay rack is eight 
inches wide and the two pieces on each side of the door are 
two inches wide each. The back and sides of the hay rack 
are made out of 12-inch boards, and where the hares pull the 
hay is made of good stiff wire seven inches long and set about 



44 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

one and one-quarter inches apart. In getting the wires in 
place bore a small hole thje size of your wire halfway 
through the floor then take a 1x1 strip and bore holes through 
it the same distance apart as the ones through the floor. 
Place this on the top ends of the wires and the lower ends in 
the floor, then spring it in place and put a couple of small 
nails through the top piece, and your hay rack is complete ex- 
cept the six-inch board in the front part to keep the hay from 
dropping out when the long door is open. The hutch parti- 
tions are behind each hay rack and behind the six-inch place 
that the doors between the hay racks swing on. A drain and 
ventilator is arranged behind each hay rack, which drains and 
ventilates six hutches. This is made to fit against the back 
wall. The outside of the drain and ventilating pipe is six 
inches square, with a partition through it. The back half 
drains the three floors by tipping each floor to it, and the 
front half is arranged with ventilating holes to ventilate the 
back portions of every hutch. I will not attempt to give 
a detailed description of how this drain and ventilator is 
built, further than the above notes. With a rabbitry built as 
I have mine, you have no smell, no wet floors, doors and 
front all gummed up, four times as much hay wasted as the 
hare really eats, and best of all, you have a nice, clean place 
to take your visitor into, and a fine healthy lot of Belgian 
hares to show him. All this is fully worth the time and ex- 
pense you have gone to if you expect to make a thorough 
success of Belgian hares." 

No. 11 — "The Belgian hare pays." says the owner of a large 
rabbitry in Cahuenga valley (California). No obnoxious efflu- 
via meets one on entering his rabbitry. Night and day doors 
facing east and west are wide open and plenty of ventilation 
on either side assists to brings about a happy freedom from 
the catarrh which is the sure result of cloise air. Note this: 
Not merely uncleaned cages will encourage development of 
that disease, the snuffles, for which, once contracted, there is 
no sovereign remedy, only contamination of the breathing or- 
gans consequent on over-crowding in, it may be, an absolutely 
clean space suffices to provoke every symptom of catarrh. The 
breeder has experimented and found after trial that hares 
resting during the day in a too-confined space, although that 
same space was kept in a condition of perfect cleanliness, de- 
veloped the symptoms of snuffles. Cure was effected by oc- 




Piiotograpli l>y the Author. 

A LABOR-SAVING HUTCH ARRANGEMENT. 

Belgians in six hutches are fed at once in this rahbitry. The narrow hinged 
door is opened and hay thrown into three spaces. The Belgians reach their 
front feet through the wires and pull the hay toward them, hut not out into the 
hutch. The grain is fed on a slanting board and is eaten up clean at the wires. 
The floor of the hutch is kept free from hay and grain, and there is noiwaste 
of feed. 



EXPERIENCES IN SHELTERING 47 

cupation of a larger space, proof positive that the inbreathing 
of lung-contaminated air was the sole cause of the trouble. 
Clean eyes, sleek pelts and healthy breathing organs are sure 
witness of sound constitutions and these hares are blessed 
with all three. Belgian hares, heavy breed, well kept, should 
in time pay the raiser. If life must be taken that life shall 
be, the stupid hare may as well be sacrificed as that the bird 
be stayed on her wing. The meat as is well known in the 
older countries, is nutritious and light. Twelve cents a pound 
for the dressed animal means profit. A hare weighing 12 
pounds, such being a well-fattened specimen, may dress down 
to nine. Poorer ones reduce to little over half their original 
weight. Less than the 12 cents cancels profit. No guest-re- 
specting caterer will make a smaller offer and no self-respect- 
ing breeder will take anything under that price. A cheaper 
article will mean diseased flesh. Butchers paying five cents a 
pound are not discriminating. 



LESSON SIX 
HOW TO FEED. 

BELGIANS have incisor teeth, and no molars nor grind- 
ers. They will eat almost anything in the way of field 
or garden stuff, green or cured. 

Here is the fundamental rule in feeding: 

Give plenty of hay and good oats daily, together with some 
green food. 

The secret is, to balance the cured with the green food so 
that no trouble results. You will find some breeders of limited 
experience objecting to green food, but it is the abuse, not the 
use of green stuff that makes trouble. 

Green food does not mean wet food. 

By green food is meant uncooked or fresh-gathered stuff, 
such as carrots, celery, beets, turnips, turnip tops, cauliflower 
leaves, dandelion leaves, parseley tops, green clover, weeds, etc. 

Wet food of any kind, except damp meal mixtures (fed warm 
or cold) are poisonous. If you cut fresh hay, clover or garden 
tops, or fresh feed of any kind, be sure it is dry when you feed 
it. Don't have a particle of moisture in it. Let all the dew 
and rain evaporate before you place anything inside the hutch. 

The test is the appearance of the dung. If it is hard and 
comparatively odorless, everything is well with the feed. If it 
is soft and foul smelling, there is too much green food. 

Fall back solely on oats and hay when the condition of your 
Belgians gets off. 

Feed twice a day, night and morning. Do not throw in food 
every time you go to the hutch. Place the hay in the rack, 
giving enough to last two or three hours. Give oats in the 
proportion of one handful to each. Belgians do not care to 
eat all the time. After the morning meal they will rest quietly 



HOW TO FEED 49 

until late in the afternoon. Give the second feed between 6 
and 7 o'clock. Sunrise and sunset are good feeding times. 
Some breeders feed three times a day, but the great majority 
advocate two. It is less trouble to feed two, and the nature 
of the animals is to need rest through the day, especially dur- 
ing the summer months. They suffer on hot days. When 
evening comes they become frolicsome, the mother feeds her 
young, and they exhibit all the characteristics of twilight 
prowling animals. 

Too much green food will cause slobbers, and pot belly. 

Don't feed frozen carrots, beets, cabbages, or other frozen 
vegetables. They are sure death to young Belgians. 

Don't overfeed, and don't starve. It is better to give them 
too little than too much. You can tell by watching their appe- 
tites. 

Pea vines, including the pods, are relished, and are healthy. 
Pea vine hay can be raised anywhere, and where many Bel- 
gians are bred it is a sensible and cheap food. 

Don't feed so plentifully that the bottom of the hutch will 
be littered with scraps. The Belgians are dainty and will not 
eat food that they have stepped on or befouled, or which has 
ueen allowed to remain in the hutch. 

WATER — Clear, cool water is never harmful. The dishes 
should be rinsed and filled with a fresh supply at each feeding 
time. A dish of cold water is a preventive and cure of diar- 
rhoea, in nine cases out of ten. A little nitre added to the 
drinking dish is an added help in diarrhoea. Give the drink- 
ing dishes a thorough scalding and drying once a week, and 
use earthenware dishes. Always keep plenty of water before 
the doe at kindling time, or she will destroy her young to allay 
the intense, gnawing thirst which comes upon her at this time. 

MILK — Bread and milk is a good dish for nursing does, 
but it should be fed sparingly. Avoid the plentiful feeding of 
milk to all Belgians, young or old. Young Belgians fed on milk 
from cows that are on a diet of ensilage will be attacked with 
diarrhoea and die, usually within two days after the diarrhoea 
begins. Be careful of the quality of the milk at all times and 
let the dish containing it stay only a short time in the hutch, 
so as not to absorb foul odors. Milk takes up foulness quicker 
than Avater. Scald and keep scrupulously clean all feeding 
dishes used for milk. 

LINSEED MEAL — An excellent condiment is made as fol- 
lows: Take one pound of linseed meal which has been 



50 



CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 



crushed in its own oil and mix it thoroughly with eight pounds 
of any other good mea), say barley or corn, together with one 
ounce of gentian, one ounce of nitre and two ounces of aniseed. 
Mix with water into thick, damp (but not sloppy) paste, and 
feed twice a day, giving each time as much as they will eat, 
removing what they leave as soon as their appetites are sated. 
This condiment is a tonic, makes their coats glossy and 
smooth, clears their kidneys, produces milk and gives a good 
appetite. 

PEAS — Uncooked peas are a good flesh-producing food. 
Use always the gray peas, not the white ones. The dung of 
Belgians fed on white peas is pasty and foul. Continued use 




GRAIN AND WATKR DISHES, OF EARTHENWARE. 

of the white peas will result in diarrhoea. The gray peas 
should be covered with water for a day and a night, then 
rinsed with fresh water, drained and set away to remain until 
they begin to sprout. Then they may be fed, a handful to 
each Belgian, night and morning. 

OATS — These are a staple article of diet. 

CARROTS — An excellent food. They are fed uncooked. 
They are especially good when the doe is suckling her young, 
as they aid the secretion of milk. 

HAY — Clean clover, or timothy, or alfalfa (common in Oal- 
ifoimia, Texas and the Southwest) are good foods. Put a 



HOW TO FEED 51 

bunch in the hay rack right and morning. 

BREWERS' GRAINS — Thoroughly dry them and mix with 
meal of some kind. The sugar in them helps to fatten. 
Don't feed too many, or they will sour on the stomach. 

BRAN — Use little of this^ as it does not have much nour- 
ishment. It may be mixed with meal. 

RICE — Should be boiled and allowed to stand until it is 
cold and with the least amount of moisture — dryer than when 
used on the table. Should not be fed more than once in 
ten days. Some Belgians will eat it, others will not care for 
it. 

Make an effort to give your Belgians a variety of appetiz- 
ing food. Their improved condition will well repay you. 

I prefer and always advise the use of the best oats, and 
good, bright, clear hay, clover hay or timothy in the East, al- 
falfa in the West. At one feeding time, sprinkle slightly with 
water the hay for the next feed. This will take out the dust 
and the hay will go into their stomachs, and none of it into 
their lungs. 

Hay does not distend the stomachs of Belgians and cause pot- 
belly, as in the case of a horse. A horse that is taken from its 
stall and worked becomes hungry and if given an imlimited 
supply of hay will gorge and the result is a distended stom- 
ach. On the other hand, a sauirrel, which has plenty of food 
within reach at all times, never loses its trim, racy shape. 
There are certain animals that will gormandize. The Belgian 
will gormandize on grain and develop a pot belly, which is 
caused by fat on the kidneys and entrails. A Belgian which 
has stuffed itself with grain will be found to be lined with 
fat. I have seen them so fat that the lungs could hardly 
move, so thick were the layers. 

They should not eat dirty hay, and usually will not. A 
hay rack or manger is a good thing. To feed oats, you can 
put into each hutch a self-feeder, if you wish, which lets the 
oats down as they are eaten. 

Water twice a day in the case of each Belgian. Water the 
young from the time they are able to crawl. 

The drinking water should be milk-warm in winter, cool in 
summer. 

During the last 10 days of pregnancy, feed the doe only 
grain and hay, as much as she wants. But do not feed her all 
the time. Build her up. She should not be too fat. 

Always feed all the good, bright hay a Belgian, will eat. You 



52 



CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 



will not hurt a Belgian by feeding it hay at all ages. 

I feed pregnant does all they will eat, of both hay and grain, 
while the young are nursing. 

At 15 days of age, the young Belgians begin to eat oats with 
their mother. I do not believe in fussing with rolled oats. 
They make a paste which usually causes trouble in the stom- 
achs of the young Belgians, making a lumpy mass which is in- 
digestible. Use the whole oats. If they are too hard for them, 
they will husk them and bite off the hard ends. 

Belgians from six weeks to three months old should have 
all the feed they will clean up, morning and night. At the end 
of three months, when the bucks and the does should be sepa- 
rated, shut off their feeding and feed a limited amount, or 
they will get too fat. 

Feed nursing does and young stock until three months of 




MAKGER OR RACK FOR HAY, NAILKO TO SIL>K OV HUTCH 



age full feed twice a day, all they will clean up. Water 
twice a day. Feed all other Belgians grain in the morning 
and hay in the evening and water twice a day. 

If you use a manger, keep hay before them all the time. 
4 buck extensively used for breeding wants full feed twice a 
day. 

If you feed your Belgians too much, you will put too much 
kidney fat on them and you will miss the racy look which you 
are after. 

Full rations for those that need it, as before specified, and 
half rations for all others, is the correct proportion. 

A breeder can raise tons of carrots cheaply, and they are 
good at all times. Parsnips are fine for nursing does, but 
they are too expensive for steady diet. Swede turnips (or 
rutabagas, the large turnips) are all right, but do not feed 



HOW TO FEED 53 

the common table turnip. As a rule do not feed apples, table 
turnips, lettuce and cabbage. Keep those things away unless 
you wish to take chances on their gorging and killing them- 
selves. 

Improper feed will cause dysentery. In feeding swedes, or 
rutabagas, begin lightly. They will not give dysentery like 
common turnips. 

Never feed more than is cleaned up in a reasonable time, 
say 20 minutes, when feeding green food. 

Stick closely to the rule with hay when you are also feed- 
ing green food. 

Salt Belgians once a week by putting salt in their drinking 
water. Do not place a piece of rock salt in the hutch. In 
some cases they will lap a piece of rock salt, in other cases 
they will not. The breeder is never sure that the salt is be- 
ing eaten. The object of salt is to purify the blood and that 
is why it is given. Incidentally it stimulates the appetite. 
You will know that the salt gets into the blood of the Belgians 
when you give it to them in their drinking water. Mix up the 
salty water in a drinking vessel, and taste the mixture your- 
self to see that it is not too briny. You want a pleasant sa- 
line solution, such as you could drink yourself, and which 
would do you good if you did drink it. You will find them lap- 
ping greedily a salt mixture made just right. 

By observing the habits of wild rabbits, we know that they 
peel the bark off trees. This craving for tonic bark should be 
satisfied in the case of all Belgians by feeding them bark 
once in 10 days. Cottonwood bark is bitter and a fine tonic 
for Belgians. Sumac is all right. In the West you will find 
the sumac trees stripped by rabbits. Peach, apple or willow 
bark may be used. Some varieties of willow need to be fed 
cautiously, if at all. Taste the bark, whichever it is, your- 
self, to determine its bitterness and tonic qualities. If you 
are in doubt about a bark, feed it to a cheap Belgian, and if 
it survives, you will be justified in using it generally. Put the 
limbs into the hutches once ever 10 days, to be peeled by the 
Belgians. The effect of this bark is to tone up the system of 
the Belgian and produce a smooth coat of fur. 

I use a feed trough in the rearing hutch. The best thing I 
have found to be small earthern crocks or butter jars which 
may be had for 60 cents a dozen. 

When six weeks old, place the whole litter in the rearing 



54 



CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 



hutch, and keep them there, both sexes, until three months 
old. They will get plenty of exercise playing and hopping 
over each other. No hurdle is needed. One Belgian in a 
hutch of that size would get less exercise than six. 

If a doe has more than eight young, which is all nature 
permits her to accommodate, do not kill off the extra ones at 
random right away. Watch them from day to day and kill 
the little ones that are not strong enough to reach the moth- 




SELF-FEEUKR FOR OAT^. 

As the Belgians eat at the base of the rim the grain falls clown in the 
chamber as needed, and none is wasted. 



er's milk, and which are crowded out of the way at every 
feeding time by the others. Some does have no trouble in 
raising 10. 

In feeding her young, the doe arches her belly over the 
nest, and the young rise up on their haunches to grasp the 
teats. 

It is well known that we can feed a certain amount of laxa- 
tive and make the fur of an animal sleek and glossy. If the 
animal is in moult, the laxative will make the moult slip out 
quicker. Remember that in feeding for exhibition when show 
time approaches. 



LESSON SEVEN. 

EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING. 

No. 100 — "I keep mine upon the best food obtainable, 
namely, oats, sweet hay, dry clover, swedes, carrots, sprouted 
gray peas, sow-thistles, dfoUdelions, green tares, and I con- 
sider the above by far the best of all kinds of food for rab- 
bits in every variety. Swedes never scour (produce diar- 
rhoea) ; carrots are capital diet for improving the condition 
of the fur, producing a silky, glossy appearance to the coats, 
and should be given sparingly when moulting or shedding 
the fur. Does, in a few days after eating sprouted peas 
freely, will be ready for pairing. I like sow-thistles for 
does and young ones, as they contain a quantity of juice or 
milk. They should be given two or three times daily, fresh 
and sparingly. Green tares I highly approve of, for milch 
doet and their offspring especially, and I consider that, pro- 
vided they are fresh, n^'t wet, they are the best of green 
meat for producing nourishing milk, but they should be given 
sparingly night and morning, or, if possible, even three times 
daily. All roots should De carefully washed and wiped quite 
dry, or diarrhoea may soon set in. Should that appear, a 
dish of cold water should be at once placed in the hutch and 
replenished twice daily. It is a positive cure. It will cure 
95 per cent, of the patients so treated. Plenty of clean sweet 
hay, dry clover and oats, and a little barley meal mixed with 
warm water into a firm, thick paste should be supplied. But 
no other food must be given for a week at least after the 
attack has ceased. The above is well worthy of every rab- 
bit fancier's attention. I cannot too strongly recommend 
such a valuable remedy, as its result is the most certain 
known. I have spent a little fortune over my animals, and 
have come to a decided opinion that, except in cases of 



56 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

diarrhoea — when, as I have said above, water is a certain 
cure — ill specimens are best killed at once, as, though you 
may save an occasional one, you run the risk of losing many 
others from their taking the disease. Linseed meal crushed 
in its oil, say one pound, Avell mixed to eight pounds of best 
barley meal (or any other good meal) with aniseed two 
ounces, gentian one ounce, nitre one and one-half ounces, is 
my favorite condiment. Mix it into a thick paste and give 
it to the rabbits night and morning, as much as they will 
eat. It produces milk, it is most nouinshing, it tends to 
produce coats glossy and smooth, it acts upon the kidneys, 
thus preventing colds, and lastly, it causes a good appetite, 
as it is sweet and bitter, vith tonic qualities. A day or two 
before the does are due to kindle I like to place a pan of 
cold water in the extreme end of their hutch from the bed 
compartment, as they experience great thirst about their la- 
bor time, and will drink most freely of water, and this simple 
precaution will frequently prevent their eating their off- 
spring." 

No. 101 — "My idea of feeding is as follows: First and fore- 
most, regularity is of the utmost consequence. I feed twice 
a day — in the morning v.ith whole oats and green food, 
swedes or turnips in the winter months, and at night I give 
meal mixed up with hot water into a stiff paste. They must 
be kept in a cool place, for if you keep them in a hot rab- 
bitry they will never do well, and will be far from healthy. 
I always keep mine in a cool place, out in the yard — with 
just a wooden covering over the top of the hutches — and 
where the sun cannot reach them, so that I keep them very 
cool." 

No. 102 — "Malva and green alfalfa are good for nursing 
does if they are accustomed to green food, but don't give too 
much. If the doe is poor, a little bread and milk is the best 
thing for her. Of course, the milk must be sweet. A nursing 
doe should always have a plentiful supply of clean food in 
her hutch. Oregon oats I prefer to any other grain, but 
w^heat is good for a change, and so is rolled barley, but too 
heating in summer. Youngsters at two weeks are very 
fond of rolled oats or ^vheat, and it is very good for them. 
They will soon learn to eat almost everything, enjoying car- 
rots at three weeks of age. Do not feed too much green 
stuff, unless they come from stock accustomed to be fed on 
it. After weaning them, give bread and milk if possible. 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING. 57 

for a week or so at least, and the warm morning mash and a 
little well cured hay. Bread and milk is certainly the best 
of food for a nursing doe and her young. Never let it sour 
in their pens. Every rabbitry should keep a cow. It would 
add considerably to the health and strength of the stock. 
Salt is essential to rabbits. It should either be given in their 
water once a week, or a piece of rock salt should be hung up 
in each hutch, so that they can help themselves if they need 
it, or the grain may be soaked in salt and water and then 
put on trays to dry before using. Some rabbits are raised 
entirely on malva and green stuffs, but I would not advise 
you to feed it to fine stock unless it is accustomed to it. It 
produces slobbers in the young very often. A good warm 
mash for Belgians is made by mixing boiled flaxseed with 
sutficient feed meal and bran so that it will crumble in your 
hand. Add a little salt. Rabbits do not like any sloppy 
food. Give them only what they will eat up clean. If any 
is left over, it should 1)e removed before it sours." 

No. 103 — "I do not advocate much green food, except car- 
rots, during the time the young are suckling, as it often 
affects the milk, and deranges the bowels of the young, 
hence so many deaths through scours. Let the young stay 
with the doe until they are six or seven weeks old, and let 
the doe rest two or three weeks to recover her strength be- 
for breeding again, rearing and feeding. At six or seven 
Aveeks I take away my >oung and place them in a large 
hutch, and give them crushed oats, milk and bread, barley 
meal paste, and carrots occasionally, until about three 
months old, then I allow them the same diet as the older 
ones, which consist of oats, carrots, swede turnips, dande- 
lion, sow-thistle, clover, tares, hare parsley, acorns and bar- 
ley meal paste mixed with crushed linseed. I always feed 
twice a day about 8 o'clock in the morning and the ^^ame 
time in the evening, and those which have not quite eaten 
all up get no more until the next meal. For my young rab- 
bits I use a trough with five partitions from the edge of the 
dish to the cylinder, so that when they are feeding they do 
not push one another away, but each rabbit has just room 
fcr its own head. I also prefer a lid on the top. as it pre- 
\ents the young ones getting inside and injuring themselves, 
and thus often saves the fancier much anxiety and loss." 

No. 104 — "Feed no damaged hay or grain, nothing but 
clear, bright hay and soind, plump grain. Don't keep old 



58 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

does to take up room at three years of age; their usefulness 
is about over. Do not feed all they will gorge of cabbage. 
It will bloat the old ones and give the young ones scours. 
Dampness and dirt is a Belgian's worst enemy. Avoid these 
and many difficulties will be overcome. Watch for barren 
does, but don't give thsm up too soon, some prove in the end 
to be excellent breeders. Do not forget to feed salt. We 
would soon crave it if deprived the taste of it for an indefinite 
length of time. Cottonwood branches and leaves are well 
liked by the hares, and must be beneficial. They seem to 
crave something bitter." 

No. 105 — "The following will make a good diet table for 
oidinary purposes, but of course it may be varied according 
to the resources of the fancier. 

1st day: During the winter give a portion of swede turnip 
or a piece of carrot, and a handful of sweet meadow hay; 
that will do for the morning feed of one day. In the evening 
feed about 7 o'clock upon whole oats, if the animals be full 
grown or almost matured. Young rabbits, up to three 
m.onths, may have crushed oats and a little bran, as their 
teeth are less able to masticate the hard, whole grain. 

2d day: In the morning give a few oats and a little fine 
bran, turnip, beetroot or carrot; and in the evening give a 
handful of clover hay and a warm mash made as follows: 
Take half the quantity required of the leaf which falls from 
the clover hay, and scald it with boiling water, allowing it 
to remain in the water for about an hour; then add pollards, 
fine sharps, and patent rabbit food (of each one-third), a 
small quantity of whole linseed (which has previously been 
boiled to a jelly), and a small quantity of food for cattle 
(prepared and sold at the stores). Mix the whole into a 
stifC crumbly mass and give, while it is still warm. 

3d day: Gray peas, soaked for 24 hours, and then laid 
out until sprouted, may be given on the morning of the third 
day. About two tablespoonfuls of these peas may be al- 
lowed to each adult rabbit at any time, but to the large va- 
rieties may be given a little more. Too many peas so pre- 
pared are injurious to health, as they tend to swell more 
than fatten, although they are very valuable for producing 
fine, short coats, if given in moderation. Evening feed, oats 
and a little turnip or carrot. 

4th day: Morning. Again turnips or mangold, with a 
little bran and oats, not forgetting some hay, which, if they 




Photograpli by the Author. Copyright, 1901, by the New England B. H. Co, 

TYPE NO. 4. 

A Belgian with excellent length of limb, arch of back and fineness of bone. 

Shape of front foot is absolute perfection. 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING. 61 

dc not care to eat will serve for bedding. Evening (espe- 
cially if cold weather). Give them a supper of warm mash 
made as directed for the second day, omitting the purchased 
prepared food, but adding a good handful of clover hay. A 
small pinch of flowers of sulphur for each rabbit. 

No. 106 — "In feeding mash, I have found that to give the 
food immediately after mixing, and whilst in a warm state, 
is the more beneficial and satisfactory. After the food has 
become cold, as a rule, the animal does not eat it with half 
the relish that it does when given warm. Also, the swell- 
ing process goes on chiefly during the mixing, and what lit- 
tle, if any, takes place after does not do the slightest injury. 
Rabbits, when in a couflned state, should have at least one 
warm meal during the day." 

No. 107 — "There has been a great deal written about feed- 
ing some fanciers recommending such a variety of food, both 
in green meat, corn and meal of various sorts, they seem 
to forget that the majority of fanciers are people with lim- 
ited means and income. This great variety of food is not es- 
sential to keep rabbits in good condition. I have been in 
the fancy some years tiow, and I think I may safely say no 
one has been more successful than I have, and my rabbits 
have been fed on a very limited variety of food. My plan 
of feeding is as follows: I feed twice a day, morning and 
evening. The morning meal consists of green meat, such 
as cauliflower, broccoli, or savoy leaves, a handful of bar- 
ley, and a piece of nice sweet hay or clover. The evening 
meal, same as morning. There are many other green stuffs, 
such as dandelion, sow-thistle, wild parsley, etc. In winter, 
when green food becomes scarce, I give swedes, turnips or 
carrots, with corn and hay as before. I am not a believer 
in pollards, sharps, bran, barley meal, etc. Barley meal 
sometimes consists of all the mouldy and fusty sweepings 
of the mill, and the others are very little better. These 
things will, if not good, put the rabbits out of sorts very 
quickly, and in many cases prove fatal. I can speak with 
some authority on this sobject, having had some experience 
in the corn trade. A little hemp seed is very nice for them 
in the proportion of a pint to a gallon of corn. This will 
make the coat look very nice and glossy." 

No. 108 — "I venture to make a few remarks on the sub- 
ject generally, having been a successful breeder for many 
years. My remarks may, perhaps, be worth reading, al- 



€2 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

though my expeinenc may differ from many of our great fan- 
ciers. To prove my statement is not far wrong, I can safely 
say I seldom lose a rabbit, except a few years since, when I 
followed the advice of a great rabbit keeper who recom- 
mended that the houses snould be kept at a certain tempera- 
turc, with diets at regular times. Acting on his advice, I 
built a house, and kept to my instructions, but oh, what a 
fate was mine. I lost nearly all I bred. Old ones moulted 
out of season, and all my stock got in a bad, weakly state, 
suffering from colds, etc. I was so disgusted that I felt in- 
clined to give up the fancy altogether, but nil desperandum. 
I went back to my old system, and can now show any one 
who pleases a stock not to be laughed at in their rough and 
ready state. The first and main thing in rabbit keeping is 
to get good hard and healthy specimens, not those brought up 
in such houses, and treated as I have before mentioned. 
Keep them outdoors in the fresh air. with certain protection 
against wet and wind. They will then live and thrive on 
almost any kind of food give.i them. My rabbits have al- 
most everything a garden produces, in season, and as much 
as they can eat, but to counterbalance the effects of so much 
green food I always give them any amount of good, sweet 
hay, and as much as they will eat of old, hard clover. If 
I find the least signs of looseness I give a little fiour mixed 
with their evening meal, which consists of good fresh brew- 
ers' grains, and sharps or ground oats. As to feeding, my 
system is to feed twice a day only, between 7 and 8 in the 
morning, and 6 and 7 in the evening. The remainder of 
the day they are left luiet, as Nature intended them to be. 
My morning meal is whole oats as good as can be got; they 
are the cheapest. As soon as they have eaten enough to 
stay them, they have any amount of green food in season, 
namely, wild parsley, dandelion, poppies, hogweed (the lat- 
ter by far the best of any wild food). The poppy is one of 
the most valuable rabbit-feeding stuffs we have. At certain 
times of the year I feed on scarcely anything else but that 
and oats for their morning meal, and grains and ground corn 
for their evening meal (always keeping plenty of hay in the 
hutches). I used to send out into the cornfields twice a 
vieek for a cartload of the red poppy. We seldom see the 
white about here. I feed almost solely on this for months. 
A great many of the fine young fat tame rabbits in the mar- 
ket are fed on nothing else but hay and poppies at certain 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING. 63 

times of the year. Of garden produce, I give cabbage, cauli- 
flower and broccoli preferred, pea and bean haulm, lettuce 
in moderation. In addition to above, I grow a good deal of 
chicory and comfrey, which I consider the best all-around 
foods i.jr rabbits, and all true fanciers, if convenient, ohould 
grow them largely. My winter green food is carrots, swedes 
and celery." 

No. 109 — "As the entire South is interested in Belgian 
hare raising, and so many inquiries as to feed and care of 
hares come to me by every mail. I wish to state that pea vine 
hay is equal, if not superior, to alfalfa. I started feeding 
one feed of nice, new, clean, alfalfa hay, and one of pea 
vine hay, with pea pods mostly matured. In less than ten 
days, they would eat pea vines, pods and all, clean, while the 
alfalfa was partly eaten and pulled about. I watched this 
for nearly eight weeks, and am persuaded that pea hay is 
excellent for Belgian hares and I believe they will flourish 
upon it. Now, as to the advantage of the pea vines over al- 
falfa, for the South here, is the tact that good hay of any 
kind is a scarce article in the Southern states generally, 
and is very hard to get in many parts, but pea vine hay can 
be raised three crops a year anywhere, and one square rod 
will raise enough to sustain all the hares needed for a fam- 
ily, and is as cheap in proportion for the more extensive 
breeder. I am sure this information will be welcomed by 
all owners of Belgian hares, and those who are studying the 
industry, especially in the Gulf states, which, by reason of 
the short, wild winters, are so well adapted to the raising 
of Belgian hares." 

No. 110 — "In about 2% to 3 weeks the young will begin to 
eat. Now watch that 3/oung do not get too much green food. 
I prefer feeding dry clover hay until young are at least 
five weeks old. I give them every morning, mash composed 
of one-half fine cut clover hay (but not mouldy), the other 
half oats, better rolled oats for very young hares, cornmea? 
and bran, in equal proportions. I put up a little bit of 
salt in it and mix it good. Then I moisten the whole with 
one-half sweet milk and one-half water, but only moisten it; 
do not make it mushy. This stale bread soaked also partly 
in milk and water, and good clover hay, is sufficient to make 
them grow. See that the Mttle hares cannot run over drink- 
ing vessels, as it will kill them if they get frequently wet. Do 
not be afraid to feed your young growing stock oats once a 



64 CRABTRE'E'S INSTRUCTIONS 

day. It will make them strong. Hares do not get sick from 
eating oats. The trouble must be looked for somewhere 
else. Give your young hares freedom, that is, to a certain 
extent, and you will see them growing wonderfully and be 
healthy. When I have several does with young about six 
weeks old, I put about tv/o dozen young hares in a wire run 
about 15 feet square, and put a long box, or hollow log, in 
centre, but see that rain does not get in." 

No. 111 — "My method of feeding is to give them, both in 
summer and winter, a little sweet oat straw, and they seem 
always to relish it right well; and then what is left does 
for bedding. I then give them a little sweet hay, and this 
they take eagerly, by way of a change. In the summer time 
I feed them on dandelion, grass, prickly comfrey, cauliflower 
leaves, common dock, parsley, chicory, and give occasionally 
a few sprigs of red or green sage, mixed with other green 
food, which has a tendency to warm and nourish them. This 
green food I give at midday. In the morning I feed on 
whole oats — good oats, for they are the best and cheapest — - 
and in the evening I repeat the feeding, and my does with 
litters I again supply with green food. The young fancier, 
and the old one as well, should never give an excess of 
cabbage, lettuce or turnip tops, unless he wishes to scour his 
rabbits to death. I never feed on this detelerious food, and 
many eminent fanciers I find denounce the cabbage diet. 
In the winter I give oacs, soft meal of brain, Indian meal, 
oatmeal, barley meal and linseed meal, mixed into balls 
just sufficient for one rabbit. This I supply three times a 
week, besides plenty of grood oat straw and hay swede turnips 
and carrots; but too many swede turnips have a tendency 
to scour the rabbits, and when this is perceived they should 
not have any more of them for a day or two, but should be 
supplied copiously with cold water, oats and hay, and they 
will soon be right. Some fanciers are fond of giving soaked 
and sprouted peas, but I have a strong objection to them, on 
account of their causing flatulence, although they are very 
nutritious, and quickly form flesh." 

No. 112 — "Breeding of the hare in .Southern California has 
many of the advantages that breeding of poultry does, ow- 
ing to our mild climate. We have no snow and freezing 
weather to guard against, but bunny will catch cold here 
same as elsewhere. By taking time by the forelock and 
bunny by the back of the neck, and applying a mixture of 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 65 

one part turpentine and two parts coal oil, with a free use 
of salt, we have been ible to check and subdue this affec- 
tion, thus preventing its assuming its worst form, snuffles. 
We also feed occasionally both eucalyptus leaves and hoar- 
hound, which are both excellent tonics and correctives, and 
avoid all sloppy foods, and use care in feeding green foods. 
Hares must become accustomed to green foods gradually, 
and we prefer to feed nursing does no green foods what- 
ever. Belgians oftentimes display marked individual 
tastes in regard to their rations. For instance, we have 
one buck that under no persuasion will eat oats, while an- 
other is particularly fond of this food. California breed- 
ers feed alfalfa hay mostly, and crushed barley forms the 
leading ration, which the hares like very much." 

No. 113 — "The doe should have good, sound grain, fresh 
water and sweet, fresh hay that is well cured and not wa- 
tery. If green food is fed it should be done sparingly. 
The "best vegetable food is carrots. It will be but a few 
weeks when the young -.vill begin to run around the box and 
out into the runs. They will relish the carrots. Care 
should be taken with the water dish. One should be used 
that will not allow the youngsters in their frolicking to fall 
in and die in the spring time of their youth." 

No. 114 — "When first I commenced to keep rabbits, I used 
to feed them three times a day, and often found they had 
only half eaten up what I had given them. Then I tried 
twice — night and morning — but still found that much I had 
given them was left. Then I decided to feed only once a 
day, and have found it not only better, but much cheaper, 
as they in almost every case eat all up, and are ready for the 
next meal. Thus I have not half the waste, and the rab- 
bits are in better condition, having more rest during the day. 
I, of course, do not include the does with young in this rule. 
I give to each doe bread and milk or other soft food (extra) 
each day. My general mode of feeding is as follows: At 
8 p. m., a handful of best white old Scotch oats, a little 
green food or swede, a handful of sweet hay, and, twice a 
week (extra) a ball of fine sharps, mixed very stiff with well 
boiled linseed. This last-named mixture will prove of great 
benefit to stock, both in respect to health, and keeping the 
coats in proper order. I have also found, especially in sum- 
mer time, when a rabbit is off its meat, and skulking in one 
corner, that a drink of cold water will often put it right. 



,66 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

In preparing rabbits for show, give, in addition, each day, a 
few gray peas which have been steeped in water for 24 hours, 
and then talien out and dried. To the bucks you may give 
a good handful, but with the does you must be more care- 
ful, as the peas are very heating and if given in too great 
a quantity, will cause the does to pull off their fur and make 
a false nest, thus spoiling them for show for some time. 
Place the specimen you intend to exhibit in a rather small- 
er hutch, keep it extra clean, with a good supply of fresh hay 
daily. Take it out at least once a day, and give it a real 
good grooming, first with a rather hard brush, then with one 
rather softer and finish with a clean wash-leather. After 
keeping thus for a week, you will find it wonderfully im- 
proved, and ready to meet the keenest judge. Always be 
careful to give them a good feed before sending them to a 
show." 

No. 115 — "I have never found any feed for rabbits that 
keeps them in better health and condition than corn fodder, 
middlings and bran with cornmeal. This I prepare in the fol- 
lowing manner: Take one-half bushel of bran, one peck of 
middlings, two quarts - cornmeal. This I mix, and add two 
quarts to a bushel of corn fodder cut to one-half inch with 
feed cutter. Add a pinch of salt, and water enough to stick 
feed to corn stalks. I never had anything outside of this 
feed for eight months in the year, and never have a sick 
rabbit while using this manner of feeding. My rabbitry is 
132 feet long by 18 feet in width. On each side of feedway, 
I have spaces for each pair of hares, 6x8 feet, enclosed 
by wire netting. My feed room is 16x18 feet, one and a half 
story high with a well of water in one corner of the room. I 
never fail to give my rabbits fresh water at least once a day. 
I have no trouble with dL^eases, and believe most diseases are 
caused by over feeding and improper care. Give a rabbit 
plenty of room to exercise, feed twice a day, see that they 
have plenty of clean water, and above all things keep away 
from them and let them alone, and you will have less com- 
plaint of sick rabbits." 

No. 116 — "My bunnies are kept in out door hutches, summer 
and winter, sheltered alike from damp, cold and wind. They 
are fed three times a day. In morning, as early as possible, 
I give a good feed of v/hole oats (the best that money can 
buy) or barley. At midday I give them as much greens as 
they can eat. In winter, of coarse, in 'greens', I include car- 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 67 

rots, swedes, celery, beet and other roots. At night, I give 
a meal consisting of bran, oatmeal and Indan meal, equal 
parts of each, and well Tiixed with boiling water, and give 
warm; or, mixed with bran, barley meal, and pea jr bean 
meal. I give my rabbits any greens that a vegetable garden 
produces, with the exception of rhubarb leaves, and one 
other difference, that I give very moderately of cabbages, 
cauliflower leaves and turnip tops to my rabbits until they 
ar€. four months old. but after that age they have as much 
as they like. I always bed my rabbits with sawdust, and I 
have proved (by a trial of some years) this to be, without 
exception, the best, cheapest, and by far the most healthful. 
I often give a handful of good sweet hay, old clover, or dried 
lucerne to each rabbit, which they much enjoy; and I find, 
given this way, the hay, clover, etc., prove a cheap and good 
kind of food. As a change, bread and milk, given occasion- 
ally, is also very good icr rabbits. The secret of successful 
feeding is so small that it lies in a nutshell, and the secret is 
this: Have large and well-ventilated hutches, in a warm and 
ventilated spot. Give your rabbits nothing but good sound 
food (whether green or dry) and feed in such small quanti- 
ties that they will eat up readily what you put into their 
hutches, and so be eager and ready for their next meal. 
Anyone with common sense will see two good reasons for 
doing so. (1) That by giving them what they can eat at 
once, you do away with the sight and smell of food, thereby 
saving your purse. (2) That rabbits with the sight and smell 
of food always in their hutches (like people) lose their appe- 
tites, and therefore, by not seeing and smelling food always 
in their hutches between meals, their appetite increases, and 
they enjoy each meal. Keep your rabbit hutches scrupulously 
clean, give as much green food as the inmates can eat, at the 
same time taking great care to give such a quantity of dry 
food as will overrule and keep down the tendency to loose- 
ness which too much greens are apt to produce. And lastly, 
bear in mind this rule, that the greater variety you give 
your rabbits, the more they will thrive. In conclusion, I 
would advise all fanciers able to do so. to grow chicory, com- 
frey, carrots cauliflowers, cabbages, parsley, and potatoes, 
in large quantities." 

No. 117 — "Good food is unquestionably essential, but the 
best is certainly not the most expensive. Between the two 
extremes of what a rabbit will not eat, and what is best to 



68 CRABTRBE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

give it. there is a wide ground for difference of opinion. The 
real secret lies in the fact that the conditions under which 
they are kept — i. e. temperatui-e, locality and time of yeai' — 
all have to be and are taken into considertion, and in their 
entirety form the perfect plan characteristic of the Intelli- 
gent, and who is bound to be in time, the successful breeder. 
Rabbits require much more moisture than is generally sup- 
posed. Many complaints, such as scurf, etc., are engendered 
by too much dry food. The grand point to be observed is 
the proper portion between the two, and here I advise as a 
simple rule to be observed, that when green food is given, a 
handful of good sound hay or clover should accompany it. 
Much discussion has arisen us to the best green food, and my 
answer to the question, 'What is the best?' is, 'That which the 
individual breeder finds he is most successful with. Dandelion 
I am especially fond of. particularly for does with young, and 
frequently make long excursions to obtain it. I strongly rec- 
ommend rabbit keepers who have a garden to cultivate chic- 
ory. When green food is scarce or bad, I give the matured 
rabbits, with satisfactory results, water in its place, and does 
in and with young, milk, with one-third warm water added; 
but I prefer, when obtainable, green food, for the properties 
it contains other than moisture. I conclude my notes on green 
food with the following, which does not tend to show that the 
peculiarities of rabbits' taste or appetite are very limited. 
An old doe. for the benefit of her health, was allowed the 
rui: of my yard; meanwhile, those responsible for the domes- 
tic part of my establishment threw out the whole of the 
leaves of a bundle of rhubarb. This was not discovered by 
me till she had devoured at least half, and I naturally anti- 
cipated some serious results. As she appeared all right so, 
in order to experiment, I let her have the remainder the day 
following. This was several months ago, and she is still alive 
and well. Nevertheless. '. do not recommend rhubarb or its 
leaves as a diet. Of dry foods, clover stands at the top of the 
list, and before corn, that is. if you get the right sort. Oats 
should be given moderately and should not be the bleached 
ones. I am rather partial to the Russian oats (black husk). 
Too many oats rather tend to precocity with the young, and 
the husk is, moreover, of a very irritating character Lo the 
digestive organs. I have stopped scouring by discontinuing 
them. In any case, select those with thin husks. Barley, 
though successful with some few. I never use except when 









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EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 71 

rabbits husk their oats. I consider them of too dry and heat- 
ing a nature, most especially for indoor rabbits when kept 
in warm temperatures. >Vheat is a good food, and I occa- 
sionally vary it by giving a little buckwheat. Gray peas, 
soaked 24 hours, and strained, are also a capital food. Rice 
I totally object to, neither do I care for potatoes, much less 
their peelings. I have never yet found it necessary to follow 
a diet table which gives a constantly varying food, but ad- 
here to the plan I have successfully adopted almost contin- 
uously since I first kept rabbits., now nearly 20 years. It has 
the merit of economy, and that the results attained are equal- 
ly advantageous the specimens produced by me, extending 
over a lengthened period, are, in my estimation, abundant 
proof." 

No. 118 — "In the first place, youngsters are ready to be 
taken away from their mother v/hen six weeks or two months 
old. The first meal should be about 8 a. m., and should con- 
sist of hay. Rabbits are particularly fond of hay, more so if 
it be sweet. After it has been trampled on, bunny, who is a 
very particular animal, will refuse to eat it; so in order to get 
over this, throw in just a.s much as will last the day. Along 
with the hay, in winter and beginning of spring, give the 
rabbits swede turnips and carrots, cut up into small pieces; 
in summer, give them a small quantity of green meat. Mind, 
1 say small quantity, because we are now dealing with young 
stock. I do not advocate the disuse of green meat altogether, 
but I warn the inexperienced against giving young stock too 
much of it; and I reiterate what I have previously said, that 
if you do the effect will be disastrous. Evening feed should 
consist of either crushed oats or a mixture, in equal quanti- 
ties, of barley meal, pollard and bran, prepared with boiling 
water, and of a consistency which may be understood by the 
use of the term 'crumbly.' Now, before proceeding further, 
let me say that after I clean my hutches, by scraping and 
brushing out of all accumulation of matter, I sprinkle the 
floors plentifully with sawdust, more particularly in the cor- 
ners which have obtained the most refuse. (Rabbits also in 
this are very clean, nearly always going to one particular 
corner.) The sawdust absorbs all moisture, and so tends to 
keep the inmates comfortably dry under foot — a very impor- 
tant thing. Chopped straw is a very fair substitute for saw- 
dust, but there is a difficulty connected with it, which is the 
inability of the majority of fanciers to obtain it. On the 



72 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

other hand, sawdust is equally as good, and easier to be pro- 
cured. If a rabbit is seen to grow big about its belly, discon- 
tinue the use of green meat altogether for some days. Give 
the subject or patient plenty of exercise, and thus save its 
life, because, if this is allowed to go on for any long period, 
it terminates fatally, rhe poor little thing, suddenly tumb- 
ling on its back, begins throwing itself violently about, and 
exhibiting all the symptoms of a child taken with a convul- 
sive fit. The disease does not attack an old rabbit except 
very rarely, when its existence finishes by a wasting or pin- 
ing away. I keep my young stock until they attain the age 
of from four to five months in warm lofts, and they have al- 
ways water to drink. The portion of my pets which I keep in 
hutches I give water to drink, in warm weather, once or 
twice a day. My modus operandi of feeding for exhibition is 
as follows: Morning, plentiful supply of hay, and a piece of 
turnip, carrot, or green m-^at. Evening, a mash consisting of 
either barley meal and pollard, bran meal, or pollard and 
bran in equal quantities, prepared with boiled linseed. If 
rabbits are fed according to the above, they will always be 
healthy, with a bright look about them, and withal shapely, 
plump, grand, and always a source of pleasure." 

No. 119 — "It is now about 49 years since I bought my first 
rabbit, a doe. She had seven or eight young ones, and I was 
cautioned particularly against giving them too much green 
meat. I fed them on the best of food — oatmeal, barley and 
pea meal, with a little green meat; at three weeks old they 
showed signs of pot bellies. I gave them less green meat. 
They grew poorer and worse, and at last nearly all died. I 
went on for years with but indifferent success, and through 
the teaching of an old friend I at last found that I was starv- 
ing them on the best of food, namely, feeding them against 
their nature, and not giving sufficient water to nourish them. 
I altered my course, and have had the best of success. I do 
not lose one a year, and a pot bellied one I have not iiad for 
years. I feed my does well with barley, oats or pea meal, 
mixed with pollard, wet with cold water just sufficient to roll 
in crumbs. I feed them with this, night and morning, and with 
as much green stuff as they will eat, from the day the young 
first crawl from their nest until I kill or sell them. They have 
always green stuff before them, taking away each time I feed 
them what is left from the previous meal; but it should not 
be given wet. I as a rule get it one day before I want it, and 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 73 

spread it abroad, to get thoroughly well dried before feeding 
-with it. With most rabbit keepers, their rabbits will leave 
anything for a bit of green meat. Mine will leave green 
stuff for any dry food. I lately killed a common prick-eared 
rabbit, nine weeks old. for a pie. The kidneys were covered 
with fat, and larger than those of a common wild one. Rab- 
bits can in this way be raised to give a good profit for eat- 
ing purposes. All they require is good room, not too confined 
for air, to be kept clean, and regularly fed according to my 
rule, and they will pay the keeper. Let some four rabbit 
keepers try this. But 1 must caution them against one thing 
• — not to give their pets a lot of green stuff one day, and the 
next none, or they will gorge, and come to grief; but if regu- 
larly fed, and plenty is always before them, they will thrive 
and prosper. Do not scald their food — it is against nature; 
and instead of littering them with sawdust, use short, 
cut straw; they like it better, and amuse themselves by nib- 
iDling a bit here and there." 

No. 120 — "As one of the largest breeders of poultry and 
rabbits in France, I use this method of feeding: The dry 
fodder, such as hay, etc., is always placed in the rack, the 
grain and oats in the trough. The soup and potatoes are 
given in a dish. The trough and dish are kept scrupulously 
clean, so that the food has a good flavor; and above all, care 
is taken that it is not contaminated by the urine of the ani- 
mal. The midday meal comes from the kitchen garden. By 
preference the mothers have milk producing plants, such as 
lettuce, groundsel, bindweed, plantain, vetches, the vine of 
French beans and scarlet runners, pimpernel and fennel. 
Parsley is also very good, but it is only given to the does 
weaning their young, as we know the property of parsley is 
to dry up the milk. Cabbage stalks should be divided and, 
like cabbage, given in rmall quantities at a time; as also 
should the young shoots which come from the pruning of 
fruit trees — the peach excepted — the vine, young shoots of 
the elm, poplar, mulberry, lime, nut and the willow. The 
roots are carrots, parsnips, turnip, cabbage ar^l beet root. 
This last is very watery and cold, and should be mixed with 
bran or meal. All these, accompanied with oats, barley and 
atter-grass, form an excellent and very varied food. Tt is 
good to accustom the young rabbits to eat soup; those which 
begin early are not affected when separated from the mother. 
This soup can be made from the water in which the plates 



74 CRABTRBE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

and dishes are washed, and in the water are boiled the peel- 
ings of vegetables — leeks, potatoes, etc. In the winter, to 
excite the appetite, I occasionally mix thyme with the dry 
food. The winter food being very dry, liquid must not be 
forgotten. Water is indispensable in the summer, also for the 
doe's when littering, to calm the fever, and even during suck- 
ling, which causes must thirst. When the young are obliged 
to be weaned before they are six weeks old, they should have 
milk given in small troughs which have been well scalded 
and cleansed after each time of using. The food should be 
distributed with care, attention being paid that all are able 
to partake of it at the same time, or some would pine. After 
each meal, the racks snd troughs must be emptied. Should 
any food be left, the animals having breathed on it, would 
nof touch it after. Potatoes must always be boiled. In a raw 
state they are hurtful. Wet grass or herbs, as well as that 
mowed or cut, and left in the sun, are bad. The most in- 
jurious herb is the red chickweed, found with the wild en- 
dive." 

No. 121 — "When the bowels are relaxed by the freauent 
use of green food, I addse ihe use of a mixture of meal and 
water, or better still, porridge made from Indian meal; and, 
for the benefit of those who do not understand the approved 
mode of making meal porridge, I will explain the manner in 
which I make mine. In the first place, I take a saucepan 
which holds half a gallon, three parts fill it with water, and 
place it on the fire. When the water boils, I put in it a packet 
of cattle spice. The meal should then be taken up and sprinkled 
in with one hand, while the contents are being stirred with 
the other. In this manner proceed until the porridge has. 
boiled so thick that it cannot longer be stirred. It Is vhen 
poured or spread out on a board or piece of iron to cool. 
This quantity is sufficient as a meal for 20 full-grown rab- 
bits. Some people may say. why go to the trouble of making 
porridge for rabbits? These people little know that it is the 
least troublesome method of feeding them. I can make the 
above quantity in about ten minutes. During the summer 
months I give this porridge as the evening meal to my rab- 
bits at least four times a week. I sometimes pour boiling 
water (in which I mix a teaspoonful of curry powder) over 
barley meal, and mix mto a dry mess with bran; and this is 
very good as a change. Oats, and what few vegetables they 
get, constitute the morning meal all the year around. I have' 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 7& 

also plucked the wild sorrel and dried it for winter use, hav- 
ing; found it a capital preventive against scurvy, which in 
some rabhitries is very prevalent during the winter months,, 
although I can safely L-ay that with my mode of feeding rab- 
bits they are seldom or never troubled with this disease. ' 

No. 122 — "I fearlessly assert that rabbits require a pre- 
ponderance of moist food; that a great bulk of the diseases tO' 
which they are subject and m.any deaths occur through giving 
so much dry food. Clover I place at the top of the list, from 
the large quantity of saccharine matter it contains, which I 
have mentioned is requisite for the development of animal 
heat. It should be the first cut, as fine and leafy as you can 
get, and take care also to have it as green as possible, discard- 
ing at once any orown or heated stuff, as you might almost as 
well give them sawdust to eat as this. The same remark ap- 
plies to hay. Middlings is one of the most essential dry foods, 
and contains a large proportion of bone-forming substances (& 
per cent.) and contains, also, 18 per cent, of flesh forming ma- 
terial, of which latter peas contain the highest, 25 per cent, 
while in bone-forming substances, only contain 2 per cent. 
Care must be taken to get the right sort. Biscuit middlings 
must be insisted upon. The following has been for the last ten 
years, and is now, my method of using the above: I infer a 
truss of clover has been selected. I have a box that will con- 
tain sufficient for the day's supply. At the bottom is fitted a 
drawer, immediately above which, nailed to the side of the 
box, is some one-half inch mesh wire netting — in point of fact, 
it resembles, and is to all intents and purposes, a sieve. The 
clover being put in at the top, the small or heavy particles 
pass through into the drawer. One handful of this to three of 
middlings is scalded, and thoroughly mixed together — not wet, 
let it be crumbling — and given warm to each rabbit the first 
thing in the morning (the earlier the better) and a similar al- 
lowance about 7 in the evening. Naturally they live chiefiy 
on vegetable diet I contend that any food which interferes 
with what Nature has prescribed for them should be looked 
upon with suspicion, even though they are kept in hutches. 
With this mixture of clover and middlings, their appetite for 
green food is increased. The last thing at night they have a 
similar feed as at midday, and those that have young six 
weeks old have a,t both these meals, in addition to the oats, 
some gray peas that have been soaked for 24 hours in cold 
water and strained. I observed just now that green food 



76 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

should be liberally given, and I wish this to be accepted in its 
full sense. They will not eat too much of it. It must be con- 
tinued with scrupulous regularity. It is the departure from 
this rule that generally produces pot belly — all today, and then 
none for two or three days. If by any chance you have a break 
of this kind in supplies, a small qiiantity must be given at first 
when you resume, increasing the supply gradually till you 
work up to the regular allowance. I might add, where oats 
are used as the staple fooQ, a little water given twice a day 
will be found beneficial. I have adopted a similar plan when 
green food is scarce, and strongly recommend it at that time, 
whatever the system of feeding may be. At seven or eight 
weeks, does with young on them should have added to the 
middlings and clover one part o£ barley meal, which will assist 
the young in moulting. 'How much am I to give them each 
time of feeding?' some of our friends will ask. They must 
find this out lor themselves. No rule of quantity can be given. 
And here I must enter my protest that rabbits are enormous 
eaters, and I raeet it with the retort that their keepers are not 
infrequently enormous wasters. Of course, it is easy enough 
to throw in two or three handfuls of oats and a little green 
food, repeating this at intervals, ad infinitum; but such feed- 
ing is expensive, and is not productive of good results. A sim- 
ple rule of feeding is to observe whether any food remains 
from the previous meal, and if such should be the case, keep 
reducing the quantity given. I like to see an empty trough 
when 1 go to feed, and the rabbits come up to it when I open 
the hutch door. It is quite desirable to let the youngsters 
have some milk while still on the doe; in fact, a favorite food 
with a few of our breeders is a mixture of middlings, barley 
meal and milk, from the time the doe kindles. I prefer getting 
them to drink it before the morning and evening meals, com- 
mencing directly they leave the nest. Some will not take it, 
but those that will gain a considerable advantage. If cows' 
milk is used, a little warm water should be added. Continue 
with either as long as you perceive beneficial results derived 
thereby and also remember that it considerably helps more 
matured animals, especially when out of condition. After 
they are weaned, gray peas soaked for 24 hours in cold water 
and strained may be given them at pleasure. Give also the 
mixttire of clover, middlings and barley meal, only particularly 
observe that none is left from the previous meal. Do not be 
afraid of green food, but let them have plenty of dry clover at 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 77 

the same time. It is advantageous to let them have peas as 
soon as they can eat. There is one disadvantage, however, at- 
tending this plan. The peas act as a stimulating food on some 
does, who eat them greedily. A method adopted by some is to 
shut her in the bed place while the young eat the peas; but 
does not infrequently resent this estrangement which some- 
times is very objectionable. For this and similar reasons 1 
lay great stress on giving the young milk until they are taken 
from the doe, and, where obtainable, that of the goat. When 
the young are about four months old, or even before, they 
must, if kept together, be closely watched, particularly if you 
have two bucks occupying the same hutch; and if once sepa- 
rated, they must not be put together again. A buck and doe 
can generally be kept longer. Carrots, of which white ones 
are the best, may be given them when green food is scarce, but 
I object to many of either. There is just one word of caution 
that must be given as to giving gray peas. Of course, it will 
be generally understood of what a forcing nature they are^ 
and therefore, should the rabbits run at the eye, or have any 
apparent complaint, in whatever form it may present itself,^ 
discontinue the peas at once, otherwise the disease will be ag- 
gravated." 

No. 123 — "Rabbits that are reared for the table should, if 
practicable, be kept in large quantities, loose, and not in single 
hutches. When the doe is suckling, all should be 
well supplied with food, which should be soft and succulent, 
but of not too aperient a nature. Young rabbits' teeth are not 
strong enough to masticate whole oats or barley, and if grain 
be given them, it should be bruised or crushed until the rabbit 
has attained the age of two months. They should be fed with 
a good selection of green, succulent food, a large supply of 
clover and hay, and enough corn to keep them in condition; 
the latter should l)e crushed until the young rabbits are about 
three months old. The profit will depend greatly upon the 
judgment with which this matter is managed. They may be 
put up for fattening at any age between three and six months. 
When taken from their mothers, two or three litters should be 
allowed to run together in either a pit or shed, care being 
taken that it is perfectly dry, or diarrhoea and rot will ensue. 
The average age v/hen taken from their mothers will be two 
montns. It is dlihcult to say exactly what amount of corn 
should be given, but it may be stated as an average that a lit- 
tle under half a pint a day will be amply sufficient for young 



78 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ones of this age. A peck — 16 pints — should last nearly five 
weeks for each one. A peck and a half, then, will do for seven 
or eight weeks, and this will bring; the young ones up to four 
months old. They may be fattened then, or they may be kept 
a month or two. ¥/ith reference to the corn for these two 
months, oats and barley are about the best. Let these be 
given alternately, either daily or weekly, and for a change a 
little meal may sometimes be substituted. Oilcake is very 
good, if you can get them to take it, but their appetites have 
first to be educated. Bread crusts are very good and very 
profitable; they can be bought almost at a nominal price, and 
are very good flesh producers. If very stale, the crusts should^ 
be slightly soaked, but should not be given with too much 
moisture in them, although, if you can afford to give milk, 
there is nothing better to bring them on, and in this case they 
may be given as moist as possible. Tea leaves mixed with the 
corn are also cheap and beneficial, as are also potatoes and po- 
tato peelings. An arrangement can easily be made with a 
baker for his refuse potato peelings, and among these will be 
found a good deal of the vegetable itself. Boil these and give 
them hot, mixed with bran. Scrupulously exclude bran from 
the corn trough; it is often given to make the corn go further, 
but it will be found to have quite a different effect. A 
great amount of the success will depend upon the judicious ad- 
ministration of roots and green stuff. It is important that green 
food shotild alwaj's be given dry. Some advocate the cutting 
of it a day or two before it is reqtiired; but it would be better 
to give it as fresh as possible so long as it is free from mois- 
ture. Apples and pears are very much liked, but are not ad- 
visable for a regular food. Hay should be given very liberally, 
as it will counteract any bad effects produced by too much 
green stuff. Keep the place scrupulously clean, and give straw 
or sawdust for bedding. This treatment will do nicely till the 
rabbits are selected for fattening; they will then be not fat, 
but fairly plump, and in a thoroughly healthy condition. The 
males should then be cut, an operation which is very easily ef- 
fected, and improves both the flesh and the temper of the ani- 
mal. Then place the selected ones in rather small hutches, 
not too many together, and commence the cramming process. 
Oat and barley meal are the two best and cheapest flesh pro- 
ducers. Mix these with tea leaves or boiled potatoes, and give 
twice a day, warm; also supply well with sweet hay. Milk 
sweetened with a little sugar is an excellent fattener, but 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 79 

rather expensive, but a little now and then will be greatly rel- 
ished. Select the green stuff carefully, and do not give it 
either too liberally or too sparingly, as the former will cause 
looseness, and the latter constipation, both of which, the for- 
mer especially, will greatly hinder your work. If fed carefully 
and judiciously in this manner, it is surprising how rapidly 
they will put on flesh, and that of the best quality. As soon 
as each one is fat enough, he can be taken away and killed. 

No. ^24 — "Here in this section (Maryland), whenever the 
winds bring continued rains from over the Atlantic ocean, 
the dampness is too much for the constitution of the hare 
unless comfortably housed, but through the perfectness with 
which Nature has endowed its mind with contentment, ren- 
ders this species of rabbits capable of much confinement, for 
as certain as I can keep their minds contented and in a heal- 
thy condition, their bodies are sure to thrive. Thus weather 
cannot prevent the keeping of them; for here a house can 
be built which for a small amount will keep a surprising 
number happy and thrifty, if well cared for. One article of 
diet that I find to be very healthy for my Belgians, that prob- 
ably many breeders and fanciers do not use, is the southern 
black cow-pea hay. It is easily grown, even on poo'.' land, 
and can be cui-ed so that the hay does not lose its green 
shade. I give my rabbits nothing but pea hay in the evening, 
and the next morning it is all gone — leaves, stalks, stems, 
pods, peas and all. The rabbits seem to be fond of eating at 
night, and I have an idea that they spend more time sitting 
out on a pile of hay chewing away with a never tireless 
speed than they do in Creaming." 

No. 125 — "Two years ago I had the chicken fever, just as I 
see so many around me having it today. We lived in sunny 
Kansas at the time, and my poultry certainly did do well. I 
had it all planned out how I would buy or build an extensive 
plant and give up the tedious practice of medicine, and make 
my living and that of my family by raising fancy and mar- 
ket poultry. I believe I would have succeeded had I remained 
in Kansas, but alas! for me, ill health seemed to point to a 
change of climate as advisable, and in coming to Colorado I 
brought my poultry ideas with me. I see now that 
it would have been better if I had left them in Kan- 
sas, where the rearing of poultry is as easy as the 
proverbial "rooling off a log." for Colorado is not an 



80 CRABTRBE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ideal poultry climate, and there are few who succeed here. 
After purchasing as good an incubator as I could get and buy- 
ing hens from my neighbors at from $4 to $6 a dozen, I 
started in the early spring, to raise chickens, ow I worked 
with that incubator! First in the cellar, and then in one of 
the living rooms, succeeding in getting 50 percent hatches 
only to have the poor little things die one by one, until at 
the end of my summer's work I had raised in all less than 50 
chickens. I did not regret my wasted work so much as my 
complete humiliation at having made so flat a failure. Differ- 
ent methods were tried — incubator hatching, hen hatching, 
brooder raising, hen raising, dry feeding, moist feeding, whole 
grain, such as wheat, corn, millet seed and the same cracked 
or in meal, the result v/as always the same. In the mean- 
time, we had been hearing a good deal about the Belgian hare. 
Others around us had been breeding them with satisfactoi-y 
results, and had much to say about the quality of their meat, 
and we began to wonder if they would not be more successful 
as meat producers for us than poultry. We were not at all 
confident of the result of our experiment, but finally ventured 
to invest in a trio, "which we obtained from a neighboring 
breeder. Shortly afterward, seeing that they were such eco- 
nomical feeders, that almost anything would make a meal for 
them, we made another visit to the rabbitry and purchased 
four more young does. As the possibilities of the industry 
began to dawn on us we began to transfer our attention from 
poultry to hares. Meanwhile, our neighbor of the rabbitry, 
having interests in another portion of the state, and wishing 
to move there, offered me his entire rabbitry, but I felt that I 
could not afford to make such a liberal investment, so induc- 
ing another neighbor, who was getting the hare fever, to take 
one-half, I purchased the other half, making for me some 58 
or 60 Belgians. This was some more than I cared to keep on 
hand, as my does were breeding and rearing young ones all 
the time, so I began to sell off my surplus stock. I soon dis- 
posed of what I had to spare at good prices as breeders, and 
with the money thus obtained I began to invest in California 
stock, bred mostly. I have at present a fine lot of hares from 
all the leading strains, and have not had any cause whatever 
to regret my original or any subsequent investment in Belgian 
hares. My reasons for taking up the Belgian hare against 
poultry or any other branch of live stock are many. In fact, 



,m 




Photograph by tlie Author. Copyright, I'.iOl, liy the New England Belgian Hare Co. 

TYPE NO. G. 

The leading Belgian of tlie world in color; slightly coarse in head and front 

limh, but splendid in general style and shape of hack, 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 83 

the advantages of hare raising are so many compared with the 
disadvantages, that no other branch can compete with it. Per- 
haps the foremost of these is economy in feeding. The cost 
is much less than the cost of rearing poultry, and when the in- 
dustry reaches a meat basis, this alone is so much in favor of 
the hare that the profit can be easily seen. Hares utilize 
much that would otherwise be wasted. Weeds, weed hay, ref- 
use from vegetables, tree and shrub limbs, prunings, in fact, 
almost anything in the line of forage, with but little grain, will 
raise a hare to killing age. The hare can be raised in small 
space. A barn will accommodate enough stock for one's own 
table, and one need not be seriously inconvenienced by hav- 
ing them in odd corners, either. A small, low building, wired 
in front and boarded up ends and back makes a good run for 
young stock. You do not have to wait for a doe to raise her 
litter of young before she will bring you another. You can 
breed her six times a year and she will never have less than 
six to offer you at weaning time. If you do your part by them 
after that time they will soon be ready for the table, and the 
loss is comparatively small. They are perfectly sweet and 
clean, eating nothing that is suggestive of filth. Give them 
room to stay out of filth and they will always be found spot- 
lessly clean. How many of our meat-producing animals can 
you say this of? And yet, this is an important item. The 
flesh is, to my mind, a;t least, incomparable for table use. 
Such fine-grained, white, delicate, juicy meat cannot be found 
in any other animal. It is Belgian hare, pure and simple, and 
there is nothing else like it. There are no lice or mites to 
fight in rearing Belgian hares. There are few diseases to 
combat, and what there are can be checked or avoided, as a 
rule, by change of diet and guarding against draughts. They 
can be fed at any hour of the day or night, thus making them 
the business man's friend. They are beautiful and rich col- 
ored, symmetrical and graceful, making them favorites of the 
fancier. As the poor man's boon there is nothing that can 
take the place of the Belgian hare. I think and hope that 
prices for breeding stock will soon be low enough for every 
poor man to own some. These are a few of the reasons that 
I am a breeder of Belgian hares. There are many other rea- 
sons for my being an enthnslastic fancier, Belgian hare writer, 
member of Belgian hare clubs. 



LESSON EIGHT. 
HOW TO MATE. 

A FUNDAMENTAL rule in breeding is, that like begets 
like. While care, attention and feeding mean a great 
deal, it is impossible to find in the offspring standard 
qualities lacking in buck and doe. 

Mate only sound, healthy specimens. They should be at 
least seven months old when mating. 

Take the doe to the buck's hutch for service. Being in a 
strange place, she will be less liable to fight if not in season. 
Do not leave them together more than a few minutes. If the 
doe IS unwilling to breed, take her away and try again next 
day. One good service is enough. 

Half the battle in producing fine specimens is in the mating. 
It is a branch of the breeding which requires the most thought 
and attention of the fancier, as goes without saying. Fine 
Belgians are not the result of chance, but of scientific mating. 

When the list of prize winners of a show is announced, you 
will find many breeders, particularly the inexperienced ones, 
seeking out the owner of the first prize buck, and showing 
themselves willing to pay the prices which he asks for ser- 
vice. Now, that is all right if it is done with care and dis- 
crimination. However, in many cases people go astray. How 
foolish it would be, for instance, to mate to a top-scoring buck 
a doe of lower score which, perchance, was strong in qualities 
in which the buck was strong. The result would be offspring 
"one-sided." The young would have the strong points of both 
doe and buck clearly defined, but the weak points of both 
would appear in the young. 

Contrast the strong and weak points of each, when you 
mate. If the buck is strong in certain requirements, mate 



EXPERIENCES IN FEEDING 85 

liim to a floe which is strong in the requirements where he is 
weak. Then there will be some science in the mating. 

To illustrate, it would be foolish to mate solely for red feet 
because both buck and doe were strong on red feet, but both 
weak in. perhaps, ear lacing. 

I have known buyers to order from a price list, saying, for 
instance. "Please send me such-and-such a doe. mating her 
before shipment to such-and-such a buck." The buyer who 
gives such an order usually lives some distance from the 
breeder. That desirable young will result from such mating 
is wholly a matter of chance. It is very foolish for a buyer 
to give such an order to a breeder. 

The object of ever reputable breeder is to please his cus- 
tomer, and if he is a capable breeder, as the buyer expects, he 
should have the right to use his judgment, breeding the cus- 
tomer's doe to a buck so that desirable results will be pro- 
duced in the offspring. 

Many of the breeders in this country engage my services 
from time to time to mate their stock. I visit their rabbit- 
ries, examine their stock and advise the proper matings. This 
is a branch of the industry requiring the most thought and 
skill. It is impossible to lay down a set of rules for the guid- 
ance of the breeders, for conditions differ with each mating. 

There is one matter in connection with breeding which I re- 
gard as very important but I do not remember ever having 
seen anything in print about it It is a subject about which 
the average breeder is entirely in the dark. Breeders of 
horses, cattle, poultry and dogs, if they have had any experi- 
ence at all in producing fine specimens, know all about it. I 
mean the contamination of the blood of the female by im- 
proper mating. If a poor buck is mated to a good doe, 
whether by design or accident, her blood, which circulated 
through her unborn progeny, bears the qualities transmitted 
to her young by the buck. Suppose a mating of this kind to 
have taken place, and the young born from it are found to be 
short of body and deficient in ear lacing. Suppose the breed- 
er notes the failure of the mating and resolves to do better 
next time, so mates the doe to a better buck. When the 
young come along, they will have in their blood the taints 
transmitted to the doe by the first buck, and which she has 
nfit had time enough to get rid of. It will not take more than 
two or three undesirable matings like this to ruin, for breed- 



86 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ing puriK>ses, the best doe that ever stood on four feet. This 
shows that the breeder must be extraordinarily careful in his 
matings. If he buys the finest stock in the world, he will ruin 
the blood of his does by improper matings unless he is on his 
guard. This is one of the hidden causes which drive many 
amateurs out of the business. They put in a lot of money into 
the finest stock and then proceed to ruin it in the manner de- 
scribed. 

It takes some time for the female to throw off the blood 
points in her system transmitted by a buck to the young 
through her. The length of time is a matter that cannot be 
stated exactly. I have known a mare, months after the death 
of a stallion, to be bred to naother stallion and produce a colt 
with all strong points and faults of the dead animal. 

When poultry breeders, by accident- find their best hens 
mixed up with undesirable roosters, they let from eight days 
to two weeks elapse before trying to do anything with the- 
hen's mating. , 

The breeder must study the points of mating for himself 
and make matches which experience teaches him produce re- 
sults. Every breeder has his own secrets for getting famous 
specimens. 

Belgians usually may be mated when six months old. 

The does should be bred, as a rule, once in 10 weeks. 

Belgians are most useful as breeders for about two and 
one-half years. 

As to in-breeding and line-breeding, the careful fancier, 
wishing to take no chances on deterioi^ated stock, will follow 
the latter course, and will not inbreed. I have known in- 
breeding, practiced to a mild degree, to do no harm, but there 
is always a doubt. There certainly is no doubt in case of line- 
breeding. 



LESSON NINE. 

EXPERIENCES IN MATING. 

No. 200 — "An advantage in does littering about the same 
date is, that sliould any of them have too many young, one or 
two of them may be transferred to does with small litters. 
If it is at all advisable to do this, the sooner it is done after 
birch, the better. A doe may show signs of debility, and so the 
rearing of two or three less will assist restoration to her origi- 
nal strength. If any nurses should be found requisite, the lit- 
tle Dutch rabbits are better than any, for they are of a kind 
and tractable disposition, have generally an abundance of 
milk, and are strong and hardy. As a rule, each doe will bring 
up her own litters the best. Sometimes onlj' one or two of the 
most promising in the litters are left with the doe, in order 
that they may be larger, and more fit for exhibition or stock 
purposes, the others being destroyed or put out to nurse. Be- 
tween the 15th and 18th day from bii'th, the young rabbits may 
be seen peeping out from their nest, which in a few days more 
may be moved, and the hutch given a thorough cleaning. If 
another Avell-ventilated equally warm hutch is ready to receive 
them, it will be found convenient to shift the family bodily in 
order to allow the recently occupied hutch to be thoroughly 
cleansed and disinfected, and again made ready for use. When 
the young rabbits begin to leave their nest, they soon com- 
mence to feed with the mother, and when they are from six to 
eight weeks old, they may be removed from her. Taking away 
one or two of the stronger ones each day is perhaps the best 
plan, as this gradual removal seems better to dry up the milk; 
and when all the family are removed, a little salt in the does 
food will be benelicial, as it tends to dry up any milk that re- 
mains. With good feeding, she may in ten days again visit 



88 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

the buck, although a few extra dayK of delay are an advantage 
to a doe which has brought up a large litter. The young rab- 
bits may be allowed to run together until four months old, 
but after that age should be separated, for they are rather pug- 
nacious, especially the bucks, and require a hutch for each 
sex, and even then they will frequently quarrel and fight. In 
a few weeks" time it is the safest method to give each buck a 
hutch to himself, for to alloAv them to remain together is to 
run the risk of their injuring each other, and totally destroy- 
ing their usefulness for stock purposes, The does are less 
quarrelsome, and half a dozen of them may remain together 
until selected for pairing. 

When from eight to ten weeks old, young rabbits pass 
through a moult. This is a critical time, during which they 
require extra care, but after that period is over they will prob- 
ably thrive, with the proper attention. For the first few weeks 
at least, they should have a liberal supply of crushed oats, 
■carrots, turnips, etc., will be a safe diet; and the warm mash, 
■sweet hay, and plenty of fresh (not cold) air, must be freely 
given. This last is highly important, as a great proportion of 
the deaths of young rabbits are attributable to the want of 
fresh air, and to want of cleanliness and due care as to the 
right kind of food. Giving improper food is an error common- 
ly committed, young rabbits being more frequently seen suffer- 
ing from the effects of injurious food than from a super-abun- 
dance of the right kind. Only a very small percentage of the 
rabbits should be lost, except from an epidemic or a series of 
accidents. Young rabbits consume a great deal more food 
than the matured ones, in proportion to their size, and al- 
though they are constantly eating, they will not injure them- 
selves, for they have to provide for the building up of their 
frames, and not merely to maintain them, as is the case with 
adults. Very few will suffer from pot belly if nie food be good, 
and given in proper proportion. The quantity to be given to 
half a dozen ten or twelve week-old rabbits will soon be ascer- 
tained. Young rabbits are very fond of scratching their food 
out of the dish, and the latter should, therefore, be so con- 
structed as to prevent such waste. There are many kinds of 
troughs which may be devised to prevent waste of food, and 
secure individual, orderly eating." 

No. 201 — "Breeding stock should be bought with care and 
judgment, as on this will depend the future success of the rab- 
l3itry. The selection of young rabbits from four to six months 




Photograph by the Author. Copyright, 1901, by New PLugland B. H. Co. 

NEST OF YOUNG BELGIANS. 

The camera was poised over the nest and pointed vertically. The young 
are shown In characteristic attitudes. In feeding her offspring, the doe 
arches her belly over the nest and the little ones rise on their haunches t» 
suckle. 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 91. 

old is advised, as they have then passed through their first 
moults, which are often so fatal to them. It is not desirable 
to pair rabbits too young, as experience shows that, when fully 
grown, or nearly so, they have greater strength, and the 
breeder gains in quantity of the progeny what he would seem 
to have lost in number by not having had litters when the 
does were two or three months younger. It need hardly be 
added that, the more perfect and healthy the pair is, the 
greater the certainty of good litters. The buck and the doe 
should not be together in the same hutch many minutes. For 
pairing, the months of February or March are the best to in- 
sure healthy stock. Yet, when rabbits are kept in warm, 
healthy hutches, they may litter at any time during the year, 
though it is not desirable. Four litters during the 12 months 
are ample; and if any longer time than three months be al- 
lowed between any litter, it should be during the coldest 
weather, when it is decidedly advantageous to give the does 
(especially old ones) a little extra rest. During the inclement 
weather of January, extra care and warmth and feeding must 
be given to does with young, or which are about to kindle, and 
any little additional attention will be amply repaid by the 
health of both mother and offspring. When within a few days 
of the time for littering, the doe will furnish sufficient evi- 
dence of the fact by biting the straw of her bedding into short 
pieces, and carrying it and the hay — of which she should have 
an abundance in her mouth to some favorite corner of the 
hutch. As soon as this is observed, the hutch should be at 
once cleaned and disinfected, for this will be the last thorough 
cleansing it will have for some time. The precise day of kin- 
dling will be known by reference to the stud book, in which are 
entered the dates of the various does visiting the buck. This 
stud book should always be kept, and, in addition, it is a good 
plan to fix to each hutch labels of wood or of slate, 2 and 1-2 
inches square, bearing dates corresponding to those in the stud 
book. The book should also give the number brought forth 
at each litter, and it thus becomes a valuable record of the 
yearly total produced by the doe. The hutch labels can be^ 
easily cleaned and prepared for other dates as required. This 
plan is by far the best, and the least trouble, as by it you at 
once can see when the interesting event may be expected." 

No. 202 — "The length and weight of a doe should regulate 
the time to breed. As a general thing, a doe should not be 
bred until she weighs at least eight pounds, and has an alto- 



1»2 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

gether i-acy appearance. If you are breeding for the fancy, and 
wish those extra long hares, wait until both buck and doe are 
eight months old. An important part is to mate the doe to a 
buck that is strong in those parts where the doe shows a weak- 
ness, and vice versa This will tend to eliminate the defects 
of both the parent stock in the offspring. Another point: The 
foundation stock should be of some good pedigreed strain. 
This is all important. Fortune never smiles on the haphazard 
breeder. One must know what the particular marking strain 
has accomplished in the past, and the proper way to keep 
posted in the matter is to have a complete record of your 
stock. One strain may be weak in a certain point, and often- 
times reproduce it with startling regularity. To avoid this, 
you must know to a certainty what other strain you mate to 
that is free from this weakness, or you will never reach the 
top round of success. Thus you may readily see the impor- 
tance of pedigrees. In selecting your brood doe, the first prop- 
erty to receive attention is color. She should have a rich red 
coat, rather inclined to a dark shade, should be of good length, 
not too fat, and her coat possess a lustre. She must have good 
under as well as top color. Next for consideration comes 
shape. The doe should be of good size, long bodied, and limbs 
as fine as possible. The more nearly perfect your doe in this 
respect, the better your chances for getting shapely young- 
sters. If it is not the lot of the doe to possess the desired 
color, be sure you get the fine front and gracefully rounded 
haunches at least, as in the transmission of this property she 
is very strong. Taken as a whole, your brood doe should have 
good length of body, be fine limbed, have plenty of ticking and 
ear lacing, well colored front and hind legs, rich body color, 
slim, neat head, eye large and full. Let the buck be a shade 
lighter, but possessed of good general body color carried well 
down the sides and haunches. Don't tolerate the grayish coat 
for a moment. The fore legs should be free from ticking, and 
the hind feet well colored up to the hock. He should possess 
good shape and be of lively disposition. Try and get a buck 
with as lean a head as possible. It has been found that a 
young buck is best to ti-ansit this property. You will also get 
more vigorous and lively progenj^ from such an animal. To 
sum_ up, your buck must be of the highest excellence, being 
particularly strong in head properties. When bred, the doe is 
placed in the hutch where she is to rear her young, which are 
supposed to arrive after 30 days have elapsed. During gesta- 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 9? 

tion she should be provided with nourishing food. About a 
week before the family is expected, place a handful of clean, 
soft straw in the doe's hutch, with which she is to build her 
nest. She may not use it immediately, but don't worry; just 
allow her to pursue her own course. Water vessels and feed 
cans should be fastened to the side of the hutch, as she some- 
times sees fit to use these also. Fresh water should be kept 
continually before a bred doe, as an abnormal thirst is appar- 
ent at the time of kindling. For best results, she should be 
kept as quiet a& possible during the whole period of pregnancy. 
Look into the nest box after the doe has kindled and ascertain 
if any dead are present; also note the number of youngsters. 
Any undesirable ones may be killed. In case of 10 to 14, a 
nurse doe is necessary. She can be a cull Belgian or a common 
white or Dutch rabbit, and both being bred at the same time 
will kindle together. If the nurse is needed, her young may be 
destroyed and those of the pure bred Belgian divided between 
the two. The doe possesses accommodation for but eight 
young, and it would be the height of folly to allow her to 
raise more. Better results are obtained by allowing but six 
youngsters to a doe. An important point to be observed in 
rearing the youngsters is the feed and care of the nursing doe. 
She requires milk -producing feed, such as carrots, peas or any 
of the numerous succulent plants which abound on all sides. 
Bear in mind, she not only has to supply nourishment for her 
own body, but also a good-sized family. Plenty of food should 
be before her at all times, that she may help herself when so 
inclined. Too much sti'ess cannot be placed upon this point, 
and if you desire quick maturing, vigorous stock, give proper 
attention in this respect. A little bread and milk is much rel- 
ished by a. nursing doe and aids her in supplying nourishment 
for the youngsters. This may be fed two or three times a 
week if convenient. At the age of two or three weeks, the 
youngsters begin to show themselves. They may be rather 
timid at first, but this soon wears off as they become ac- 
customed to their surroundings. At this time, it is well to 
place a small dish, or box of dry bran, before the entrance to 
the nest box. This not only encourages their remaining out 
and enjoying a breath of fresh air. but it is also an excellent 
feed. Of course, other feed, such as oats, alfalfa hay, etc., will 
answer the same purpose. The youngsters may, under ordi- 
nary circumstances, be weaned at the age of six weeks. They 
should by this time, have a good start and be able to look out 



54 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

for themselves. Give them a good runwaJ^ say six to ten feet 
long by two to three feet wide, so they may exercise and 
lengthen out. This also promotes early maturity and aids 
their attaining that racy appearance so much coveted by all 
real fanciers. At the age of ten weeks, separate the bucks, 
as they may cause much mischief if allowed to remain with 
the does. If raising stock for market, caponize the bucks when 
about four months old. They will fatten quicker and make 
much better meat if this method is followed. Always keep the 
little ones covered with the fur provided by the mother until 
they begin to grow their own coat. Keep your young hares 
until they are about three months old before you sell them, 
and both you and the purchaser will get a fair idea of what 
they are going to look like when grown." 

No. 203 — "It is always better to breed from rabbits aged 
about ten or twelve months, for the offspring are generally 
much stronger and get on a great deal faster. The young 
fancier should always put the doe to the buck, and never the 
buck to the doe, and the latter should remain only a few min- 
utes in his hutch. The spring time is always the best season 
to pair the does, although, if a rabbitry is kept warm and com- 
fortable, litters may safely be reared, but never as well as in 
the months of February, March and April. I generally allow 
my best does to have only two litters in the year, while the 
second-rate ones have three. I always take care that my does 
suckle only about three, and in some cases four, but never any 
more, so that the young ones — if tne mothers are good milkers 
— become large ones, and if of the right exhibition color, they 
fetch a good price, and amply repay me for those I have de- 
stroyed. During cold weather, the doe and her young should 
be made warm and comfortable, and well fed on good food. 
Satisfactory results will then follow. I keep a few Dutch does. 
They are excellent mothers and very good milkers, and by this 
means all the litters from the other does are reared. When 
does are only allowed to breed two litters in the year, the 
young may remain with their mothers until they are almost 
through the moult, ana I find that they thus do much better, 
and retain more strength in battling through, scarcely a young 
•one being ever lost. The fancier should have his hutches cleaned 
for his does before they are about to kindle,and the time for 
kindling should be recorded in a stud book, so that the proper 
dates may not be overlooked. Mice should be kept out of the 
Jjreeding hutches if possible, for breeding does do not like 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 95 

them, and often scatter their litters about the hutch floor, with 
the notion, no doubt, of protecting them. It is a good plan to 
bring a kitten up among the rabbits, and this can be done 
very safely by putting a new born kitten to a doe rabbit just 
kindled, for she will suckle and bring it up to a given period, 
and thus domesticated it will do the rabbits no injury when 
matured, but will only kill the mice in the rabbitry. Before 
the doe kindles, I take care to let her have a copious supply of 
cold water, because after kindling she becomes very thirsty, 
and if the thirst is not quenched, either in this way or by giv- 
ing succulent food, she may destroy her young to satisfy her 
craving. When I have my does in kindle, I am always mind- 
ful, in entering my rabbitry, especially with strangers, to go 
in quietly. Above all, keep strange dogs out of the rabbitry, 
or much alarm and mischief may occur. When my does kin- 
dle, I wait four or five days — unless I have Dutch foster moth- 
ers ready at the time — before I peep at them, because some 
does do not like their young ones disturbed; but some old 
breeders I have will look on while you examine the little fam- 
ily, apparently unconcerned and will, when you replace the 
nest box, carefully inspect them and^ finding all right, will 
leave them and retire into the feeding and sleeping compart- 
ment of the hutch. I have found that it is 
a very good thing to give young rabbits a little green parsley, 
which tends in many instances to prevent pot belly among 
them. During the whole of my experience, I have had only one 
case of this kind in my rabbitry: but scours I have had in 
abundance, but never after I gave up feeding on cabbage, let- 
tuce and turnip tops." 

No. 204 — "I would advise you to buy some good does to 
start with, and be sure they are pedigreed stock, and have 
them bred to the finest bucks possible. This is the cheapest 
way to begin. If your means are limited, buy a few really 
good does rather than a number of inferior ones. It certainly 
pays to get the best. A fine buck from imported stock, or im- 
ported himself, is always a good investment. They cost money, 
but bring in an income from the start. If you can't afford to 
buy a mature buck, a good way is to purchase a youngster 
from celebrated stock. In a few months he will be useful and 
profitable." 

No. 205 — "Belgian hares may be used at seven or eight 
months, but not before, if it can be avoided. Bucks that have 
been once used stop growth, and rarely Improve in condition. 



96 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

I like an aged buck and a young doe, then we get by far finer 
specimens as far as ear and size go. I may add, for the infor- 
mation of amateurs, that they will often find rabbits born 
without hair (fur) while others will have quite long coats, like 
satin. I attribute the cause to the does being in ill-health, and 
kindling too soon after a previous litter. The young in this 
case always appear puny and delicate for days. I am of the 
strongest opinion that no rabbits of any class should be mated 
during their changing of fur, as this, I well know, interferes 
most unfortunately with their offspring's future coats. I never 
like to be without foster mothers (nurse does) and I like them 
to kindle a few days before (which is the best) or a few days 
after my vaitiable does do. Sometimes we are very glad to 
obtain them even ten to 14 days after — that is, if we cannot 
procure them to suit us earlier. This is how I manage: I have 
say eight young in a litter. As soon as practicable, I take out 
the does, both the nurse and the valuable one — place them in 
hampers out of the way, and carefully select two or three of 
the young for each nurse doe, taking care to blow the fur of 
the nest off them, or the foster parents would smell it and see 
it, and instantly destroy them. I then put them in among the 
nurse does little ones, and placing some tempting food in their 
run, I put back the does and then if they are left alone, they 
bring up the newcomers. On about the second or third day af- 
ter, I take away some of the nurse does own litter and destroy 
them, as the others thrive faster from the extra supply of milk. 
If litters are small, I do it at the time I put the others to their 
new mothers." 

No. 206 — "A new enemy to the Belgian hare has come to 
the front lately. Several parties have told me they had entire 
litters just kindled, killed by mice. The only sure remedy I 
can suggest is to cover the front of the breeding hutches with 
fly screen, and then go for the mice with traps and rough on 
rats. It is well for breeders to be on the lookout for mice. 
That reminds me that about one year ago one of our leading 
breeders was about to trade some hares lOr some fancy mice. 
His better half told him if he did, she would set a trap and 
kill all of them. He didn't trade. Some breeders seem to 
worry a great deal about 'what shall we do with our pelts?' or 
'is there a market or pelts?' That part of the business does 
not worry me a little bit. The fur clipped from a dry pelt, and 
put into the nest of a doe about due to kindle, if the weather 
is cold, is worth ten times what a dealer will pay for the pelt. 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 97 

Very few does will pull enough fur on a real cold night to keep 
the little ones from freezing. A little help goes a long ways 
to save the new born litter, which is worth dollars while the 
pelt is worth cents." 

No. 207 — "I never breed with sickly or ailing specimens 
but on the contrary strive to have my bucks as vigorous as 
possible, and my does i like to have as large, as healthy and 
as Avell bred, as it is possible to have them. I also like to have 
manifested in my breeding does that kind, tractable disposi- 
tion which in almost all cases is the foreshadowing of a good, 
kind mother. I find great difference between doe rabbits with 
respect to suckling qualities. Some seem to be provided with 
better milk-giving qualifications than others and, by noticing 
and noting this, the next time they have young ones, if the 
bad milkers have large families, some of the youngsters can be 
taken away from them and given to nurse does. Dutch are a 
grand variety to keep as nurses, for this reason — they almost 
invariably have a great deal more rubbish than good ones. 
The bad ones can be killed and their places taken by offspring 
from bad milkers of other varieties. In all cases. I never allow 
my mothers to bring up more than four or five, and three is 
the better number. A few days (say three) before my does 
are due to kindle — the time for gestation running from 30 to 
34 days — I clean their hutches well out, sprinkle the floors 
plentifully with clean sawdust, and give a generous supply of 
sweet, soft meadow hay, and every day up to the time of 
kindling, a dish of clean, fresh water. After a doe kindles, 
wait for a couple of days and, first thing at morning, go gently 
to her hutch, take her out therefrom, place her in another 
hutch, previously prepared, give her a feed, and leave her until 
dinner time . Now take the next box out of the hutch, part the 
top of the nest, and take a peep into it. Take the inmates out 
gently one at a time, and place them in an old felt hat. You 
can then make a selection of what are wanted, place them 
back, and give the remainder, over which the above modus 
operandi has been performed, to nurse does, and leave tnem. 
They will take no harm, as rabbits feed their young at night 
time. Consequently, the taking of the mother away till din- 
ner time will not injure them but, on the contrary, the 
changed young ones will have had time to get the smell of the 
new nest on them, and their mothers or foster mothers will not 
have their suspicions aroused. This is an important part of 
the business, and a little trouble is never lost over it, as many 



98 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

cases are known where, youngsters in the nest having been 
interfered with, the doe has left them. This is my treatment 
of suckling does and rabbits for exhibition. When the young 
ones have attained the age of eight months, I let the does visit 
the bucks, and am careful in setimg down the exact date of 
visitation. On the evening of tue 30th day of gestation, give 
each doe a feed of milk and bread, prepared as follows: Take 
a quantity of stale bread, pour over it boiling water, let it 
steep for ten minutes, pour off the surplus water, and add, say 
a pint of new milk for every six or eight does. I continue this 
feed every night until the young ones are taken from the 
mother. For breakfast, I give either oats or bean meal and 
bran in equal quantities, and made into a mash (crumbly) 
with boiling water. Dinner, hay and carrots, or turnips, in 
winter, or green meat when procurable. I may add here, that 
I never allow my does to bring up more than four, as quality, 
not quantity, should always be the object of the fancier. On 
the second or third day after birth, take the nest box out of the 
hutch and examine the young ones. If a does has only two or 
three, then the number (four) can be made up from other dif- 
ferent lots. I have done this for years, and never had a mis- 
hap. A subject of much importance to all interested in the 
production of show stock is the prepotency of sires over dams, 
and consequent serious influence over offspring. Having 
mixed a great deal among fanciers of every description of prize 
animals and birds, I have found that 99 out of every 100 of 
noted breeders arc men who have given the subject much con- 
sideration, and the result of their reasoning has led them to 
conclude that the male bird or animal is the chief con- 
sideration. I was lately in the bird room of a noted canary 
breeder and in the course of conversation, this very subject 
was reverted to, and he stated he was always very anxious to 
have the cock birds of the very best type of the breed he was 
endeavoring to produce in all the glory of the required char- 
acteristics. He also stated that he would rather pair good 
cocks and moderate (though well bred) hens, than good hens 
and moderate cocks, because he had proved, beyond doubt, that 
this mode of procedure ultimately gave the best results. In 
my own particular rabbit fancy, I find it of very little use hav- 
ing good dams unless T have grand sires. The influence of a 
first sire sometimes extends for generations, i. e., influence of 
previous sires over offspring by other sires out of the same 
dam." 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 99 

No. 208 — "In classing Belgians according to color^ of course 
the best of us run a little off on color, from light and dark, 
and I can say that I have never had a white one thrown in my 
hutches, and few black. When it is the case that an adver- 
tiser builds roomy hutches, constructs buildings to hold such 
and then gives a rabbit a separate hutch, it stands to reason 
that prices should advance on such. When the breeder takes 
pains to pedigree and rear stock not akin it is proof positive 
that that mode is more work, and in the end more productive 
than crossing at large and letting stock run together on a 
farm, as some advertise. I soften the light in all my buildings 
by coloring the glass, so as not to effect the coats of my pets — 
a simple matter which carries weight towards richness that 
the standard calls for. The best way for the young or old be- 
ginners to find the true colors of his pets, when in doubt, is to 
visit first class rabbitries or show rooms, or exhibit his stock 
and find which the judges give preference." 

No. 209 — "Most of the fine exhibition and breeding stock 
in England has found its way here in exchange for American 
dollars. Pedigrees count for just this much, they give one an 
idea of what may be expected from the young stock in advance, 
by knowing what their ancestors were, for like produces like, 
though all young will not be prize winners though their fath- 
ers were. But to have good pedigrees is not all. To have ani- 
mals that fit their pedigrees is not all. The first requirement 
should be health, for the best animal that ever lived will de- 
generate inco the veriest scrub if left to shift for itself. It is 
environment, food and attention that go as much to win 
prizes as does the long list of pedigrees and famous ancestors. 
All these things should be taken into consideration when buy- 
ing stock, and while it is a good plan to buy from the ac- 
knowledged fine show specimens the work has but commenced. 
Good domestic breeding animals can be had in this market for 
$10 up to $300, bred to the fine bucks that are so numerous 
here. One of the best ways to get a good start, and the way I 
started, is to get a few good breeding does, and as fine a buck 
as I could find." 

No. 210 — "EYom date of birth, the care of young hares is 
left to the doe until the young begin to feed, which will us- 
ually be about the fourteenth day. If it is desired to push 
them forward, a little bread and milk once a day may be given. 
This may be alternated with plain corn bread or dry chop. 
These with oats, and now and then some oat flakes, will be 

LofC. 



100 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

found an excellent diet for the doe and young. At six weeks 
old, the young must be taken away from the doe and put in 
pens by themselves. After they are taken from the doe, the most 
critical time for the young begins, and for some weeks the 
greatest care should be taken to avoid errors of feeding. If 
the doe has not been used to green food, no green food should 
be given to the young until they are past three months old, 
and then very sparingly until they are made accustomed to 
it. No soft feed should be given to a specimen intended for 
show purposes, as its flesh will be flabby. The best results are 
generally obtained by a strict dry food course. At three 
months old, the does and bucks must be separated and a rec- 
ord kept, so that they can be known and no mistake made as 
to parentage. This can be done by putting in separate pens, 
but then room is not always available and marking must be 
resorted to in order to avoid losing track of the parentage." 

No. 211 — "In their eagerness to get a lot of 'em and get 
'em quick,' as one amateur explained it, many breeders of Bel- 
gian hares are d.)ing an irreparable injury to their stock. 
Breeding a doe when she is only four or five months old weak- 
ens her, and her offspring start out with a constitution weak- 
ened and impaired, consequently, if sickness or disease over- 
takes them, they have little or no vitality to withstand the 
attack. A doe should never be bred before she is six months 
old, and it Is better to wait until she is severi months old. 
When a doe has a family of more than six, it is better to kill 
all above that number, as the six will grow rapidly, will be 
stronger and more vigorous than with eight, ten or a dozen 
in the nest. When a doe has an extra large family she will 
wean them at a,n earlier age than with a less number to suckle, 
and this is one prolific cause if slobbers in your liares. Being 
deprived of the mother's milk, and forced onto dry feed before 
their little stomachs are prepared for it, causes the food to be- 
come impacted in the stomach, which produces irritation and 
slobbers. A less number and better quality of stock will give 
better returns in the long run." 

No. 212 — "Looking for some Plymouth Rock fowls about a 
year ago, I stumbled onto a Belgian hare doe with eight two- 
year-old youngsters. She was a very pretty thing and at once 
won my interest, and learning that she was for sale I 
bought her &nd her family. Having an empty stall in the 
Darn, I made that into two temporary pens and thus made 
bunnies quite comfortable. I next looked around for a good 




Pliotogvapli by the Author. 



By permission of Mr. and Mrs. J. S. Brothers. 
TYPE NO. 7. 



This Belgian shows a very clean neck, a hold, open eye, very alert ear car- 
riage, an unusual length of limh, a thin head and a beautifully arched back. 
Perhaps a Belgian cannot be found which carries the body higher from the 
ground. 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 103 

buck, and having found one to suit me I bred tlie doe. I soon 
found that if I would avoid trouble I must separate the 
youngsters, so put in another partition and commenced to 
separate according to sex, but to my great joy (for I had the 
breeding fever) found only one male. The next thing was to 
provide a suitable male to head this tribe, and an active search 
resulted in the finding of a A^ery good specimen for which I 
exchanged my male, and I was ready for business on an inde- 
pendent scale. As soon as the young reached the age of five 
months, breeding commenced, and I had to look around for 
more hutches, as I supposed each mother must have separate 
quarters. Dry goods boxes obtained at the nearest town for 
15 to 25 cents each seemed to supply this need nicely, and a 
little work in remodeling them made them quite comfortable. 
Well, here they come, three, five, six, seven and even nine at 
a clip, rabbits everywhere, but not satisfied with this, I here 
made my first fatal mistake by again breeding my does at 
once, and the result was that when the youngsters of No. 1 
most needed a mother's care, crop No. 2 was at hand, and crop 
No. 1 had to be pushed off to care for themselves, and the re- 
sult was a fatal check. But how about the mothers? Poor 
thngs, they resented the abuse in different ways, namely, the 
mothers of six, seven and nine had only one, three and four, 
while others abandoned the second litters entirely, and still 
others threw them out of the nest to perish, and instead of 45 
as at first, I only saved 17. Don't breed too soon. Six months 
of age is soon enough and two months between litters is little 
enough. Well, the old mothers had eight and six, so here I 
had 76 youngsters, and expectations of hundreds more, so 
when a man came along and offered me six dollars a dozen 
for them, I let them go and thought I had done well. Today 
I could sell them all for five dollars a pair, and doubtless 
many of them for double that, as I cannot near fill by orders 
for breeding stock. Don't sell too soon. So it goes, and I am 
still learning, but this I know, that a small cash investment 
in Belgian hares, a little time nights and mornings expended in 
their care and a small cash outlay for bran has netted me over 
one hundred dollars cash profit in one year, and I could sell 
my stock on hand for two hundred dollars more. I still have 
my Plymouth Rocks and credit them with leading me to the 
Belgians, but I have lost my interest in them." 

No. 213 — It has been said, I believe truthfully, "that 
color is what sells." But as it reciuires perfect parts to make 



104 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

a perfect whole, and as color is only one part of the require- 
ments of the Belgian hare, we will do well to consider, in our 
matings, the other requirements. The name Belgian hare 
implies an animal that in style and shape closely resembles 
the wild English hare. The word "hare" brings to our mind 
a long, slender animal, possessed of great length of limb and 
capable of remarkable speed. Bearing the above in mind, let 
us consider the type of animal we should use in breeding for 
the show room. Length of coupling and slenderness of flank 
and rib are of vital importance, and we believe these two sec- 
tions, together with color, should come first in our selection 
of a stud buck. He should also possess a long, narrow head. 
If impossible to find one with a very narrow head, let it at 
least be as long as possible, as length is far more difficult 
to secure than narrowness. We can greatly aid in securing 
the latter by the use of a doe possessing a fine narrow head. 
Length of head, however, comes largely from the buck. Look 
well to his ankle joints: see that they are short, and that he 
stands well up on his toes. His ears should not exceed five 
inches in length. He should be capable of holding his ears erect, 
close together, and not spread apart or loosely set on. Lop 
ears are quite likely to result from the use of an extra long 
eared male. Look over the score cards of many of our best 
bucks and you will find a cut of one-quarter or one-half point 
on size or shape of eye. This small cut may prove to be the 
cause of our losing first premium. Let the eye be large and 
round. If you note that your stud buck sits around with his 
eyes partly closed, giving him a sleepy appearance, it means 
that you are overworking him. Give him a rest and exercise. 

Color of jaw is a section most of us overlook in our matings. 
A perfect colored jaw would be one with the red carried 
down clear to the lower edge, showing no white or cream 
color from a side view. The color underneath would be cream 
and confined to the space between the jaw bones. We have 
described perfect jaw color, but freely admit that we seldom 
see it. Contract the white under the jaws to as small a com- 
pass as possible, and by breeding along this line a perfect 
jaw color will eventually result. 

Lacing of ears is also a section of prime importance in an 
exhibition specimen. Perfect lacing is scarce, and means that 
the black is carried as far down the thin edge of the ear as 
on the back side, and that it is a lustrous, jet black extending 
over the edge, not black to the edge and then a smudgy gray 



EXPERIENCES IN MATING 105 

■color. The ears should be of a red or golden tan, practically 
free from ticking and carrying the color up sharply to the 
black lacing. This, I admit, is difficult to secure, but if there 
were no difficulties where would be the fascination of breed- 
ing or the excitement of endeavoring to excel? 

In color of body the buck should be a bright tan or red, 
containing much fire. Breed this stud to a doe deeper in 
color, quite heavily ticked, long in head, limb and body and 
we have a mating safe to count on to produce a good percent- 
age of fine youngsters. 

I have not attempted to touch on color to any degree, as 
that will be well handled elsewhere in this work, and is some- 
thing all are breeding for, and, sad to relate, some of us are 
after color to such an extent that we lose sight of many other 
sections. When I say "us" 1 mean English as well as Ameri- 
can fanciers, as some of the poorest formed hares in the 
country have been imported from England. 

Let us unite in our efforts to produce typical hare shape as 
well as rich color, and there is no reason why we should not 
■export instead of import Belgian hares. 



LESSON TEN. 
HOW TO CAPONIZE. 

MALE haves when caponized at the age of three months^ 
or thereabouts, when the testicles are developed, grow 
to an extra large size, weighing 10 or 12 pounds, and 
their meat is better flavored. A large number can be kept 
in a single hutch without their fighting, therefore by caponizing, 
the breeder will economize his space. People prefer fat capon 
ized hare to eat just as they prefer fat caponized chicken. 

Do not caponize an ailing Belgian. Be sure he is sound and 
healthy. 

Before performing the operation, take the hare to a place 
ought of sight and hearing of the other hares, and make as 
little fuss about it as possible. 

Use a razor, or a very sharp knife. The knife is better. Make 
certain that it is chemically clean by dipping it in a disiu' 
fecting solution, or by passing it through the flame of an al- 
cohol lamp. Of course, do not heat the blade enough to draw 
the temper. 

It is best to have an assistant when performing the operation. 
Let him hold the Belgian in his lap, turning its back towards 
him and its rump towards you, and holding one front and one 
hind foot in each hand, spreading the legs apart, thus expos- 
ing the parts to be operated upon. 

Your assistant should have good nerves, and should grasp 
the hare firmly, but not too tightly. If you decide to begin 
the operation, be sure and carry it through at once to a suc- 
cessful finish. 

Seize with the thumb and first two fingers of the left hand 
one of the testicles, which the animal will endeavor to draw 
up into his body. When you have succeeded in grasping it. 



HOW TO CAPONIZE 107 

divide the skin of the outer pouch, or scrotum, with a single 
stroke of the knife. It is necessary to cut deep enough to 
make a good-sized opening in the scrotum and in doing this 
the testicle will be laid open more or less. With the left hand 
take the testicle from the scrotum, drawing it out about two 
inches With the knife separate the artery and the spermatic 
cord, cutting upward, and leaving a little, pea-shaped bulb on 
the end of the spermatic cord. Then cut between this bulb 
and the testicle, allowing the cord to drop and return to the 
scrotum. 

Next commence about two inches from the testicle to scrape 
on the sides of the artery downwards with the edge of the 
knife, making a light and slow drawing stroke, touching the 
artery a little lower or nearer to the scrotum with each stroke. 
Perhaps a dozen or twenty of these little fine cuts will be 
necessary to wear down before severing the artery, which 
should be done well down, close to the scrotum. In this way, 
but little blood will be lost, while if the artery is cut square 
off, much blood would be lost, and the hare might die. 

Repeat above operation with second testicle. 

The testicle on the left side should be taken out first. 

Apply a little hogs' lard or vaseline to the wound. If it is 
summer time, apply a little pine tar to keep the flies from 
doing injury. 

Do not put any water on the wound. 

The wound ought to heal, and usually does, in four or five 
days. The percentage of loss by caponizing is very small. 

Be gentle, but firm and auick, in performing this operation^ 
The sooner it is o^'^er, the better for the Belgian. 



LESSON ELEVEN. 
THE MEAT MARKET. 

WHEN raising Belgians for the meat market, remember 
thiat, as in the case of fine poultry, you want a carcass 
with freshly-formed meat cells if the most delicious 
flavor is desired. I^et your Belgians grow gradually, 
feeding them a bit lightly, then put them onto full feed and 
force them, and kill them as soon as they are fat, before the 
meat cells have had a chance to grow old. Fed this way, the 
meat of a Belgian will be as sweet, tender and juicy as possi- 
We. 

Flemish Giant rabbits are impracticable for meat purposes, 
because the meat is coarse and of poor quality and is un- 
healthy. This variety has fewer litters, and fewer young to 
the litter, that the Belgian. The Flemish Giants also eat 
more than twice what they ought to, in proportion to their 
size. They are not to be compared to a Belgian in amount of 
meat produced by a certain quantity of food. The Belgian 
produces the most meat per pound of food consumed of any 
domestic animal. Do not be misled by the great size of the 
Flemish Giant. There are other factors to be taken into con- 
sideration. It costs as much, if not more, to raise one Flem- 
ish Giant, than three Belgians, and the quality of the meat is 
poorer. 

In raising for meat alone, always keep the brood does in sin- 
gle hutches, but put the growing stock in pens, about 30 to a 
pen. Have a manger for hay, and a large watering trough. 
Have several of these pens, and as soon as the young are 
weaned in the doe's hutch, put a bunch of 30 of about the same 
size into a pen. In constructing the manger, do not set the 
bars so close that the heads of the Belgians are cramped 



THE MEAT MARKET 10& 

when they eat. 

Belgians are best to fry when eight weeks old. For roast- 
ing, they should be at least five months old. Most of the big 
roasters are from six to seven months old. 

Do not sell meat stock under eight months of age. 

There are 10 percent of culls in the best of stock, and in an 
active market, in a large rabbitry, the breeder will use 50 
percent for the table. 

There is only one way to kill and dress a Belgian properly. 
That way is not only correct, but neatest and quickest and 
most practical when the butcher is handling a large number 
a day. First, prepare a place to dress the animal. Drive two 
spikes into fence or beam on a level with your shoulders. 

Grasp the hind feet in the left hand and with a stick of 
wood or light iron bar strike the animal's skull sharply, 
stunning it. Lay the carcass immediately with the left hand on 
a chopping block and with hatchet or cleaver cut the head 
completely off. Cut the front feet off at the joint, on the 
chopping block. While the carcass is still on the block, in- 
sert a knife carefully at the back, just below the neck, about 
two and one-half inches down, and cut the hide. Put the 
knife into the hide and cut out. Do not cut in from the out- 
side, for if you do you will carry in hairs from the fur which 
will stick to the skin. Insert the first two fingers of the right 
hand in the slit made, and hang up the animal on your spikes, 
rump downwards. 

Cut off the tail at the vent. Pull the skin down and off 
with both hands, without further cutting, except at joints of 
hind legs. This will enable you to get the skin off whole, like 
a bag. Cut a quarter-inch twig about three feet long, bend it 
double, insert the bend or bow into the pelt, push it to the 
neck, and you will have the pelt stretched for further use. 

Dress the carcass that remains as a sheep is dressed. In- 
sert the knife into the skin at the belly, taking care not to 
puncture the belly, and slit the skin of the abdomen, cutting 
out from within. The entrails will fall down and may be 
separated without puncturing. Do not remove the diaphragm, 
but split it from the brisket to backbone. Leave the liver, 
heart, diaphragm and kidneys in the animal. Be sure and 
take the gall bladder off the liver, and without breaking it, 
otherwise the contents are liable to permeate the flesh and 
cause a rank taste. Slip the carcass off the spikes and into a 
kettle or pail of cold water, and leave it there for 20 minutes 



110 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

to harden and whiten, and drain out the blood. 

Take the flaps of skin on the under side of the carcass and 
pin them around on top of the back, leaving the kidneys and 
liver exposed, as the carcass of a sheep is exposed in the 
markets. 

A Belgian dressed like this makes an appetizing appearance 
on the butcher's counter. Housekeepers should refuse to buy 
Belgian meat unless it is properly dressed like this. The meat 
of a Belgian is always white, like chicken meat. The meat of 
thie jackrabbit is red, while that of the cottontail rabbit has a 
bluish tinge. The meat of either is not to be compared to that 
of the Belgian in either texture or flavor. 

In localities where the Belgian is making its way, it is com- 
mon for the marketmen to treat it like game. It is knocked 
in the head and hung up by the hindquarters to await a pur- 
chaser. They were selling Belgians killed this way in the 
Boston markets in the winter of 1900-1901. The price of such 
a carcass was $1.25 the first day. As the meat grew older the 
price dropped until in about two weeks it was being offered at 
a quarter. The purchaser at that time, if there was one, 
probably got a carcass which had putrified inside and turned 
the flesh of the belly green. The whole carcass must have 
been poisoned with bacteria, and become a menace to health. 
BUILDING UP AN OPEN MARKET. 

The first and foremost need of the fancier is to establish an 
open market for the meat, otherwise the fancy will be in- 
jured. We have seen sections of the country where the fancy 
has risen, dropped and risen again, but to stay only when 
there was a sure and certain market for the meat. The fancy 
in every line of breeding of practical animals is founded on 
the fact that there is a market for the product in large quan- 
tities. Unless beef and milk were in steady demand, there 
would be no incentive to breeders to produce fancy cattle. 

The Belgian hare fancier should be the first to move toward 
the establishment of an open market for the meat, because 
he is the most interested, having the most money invested. 
The Belgian hare must have a solid foundation and it has 
wherever a meat market has been established. In a practical 
industry, such as the Belgian hare is, one can safely build up 
even an extravagant fancy and not fear for its future. 

Suppose there is no demand for Belgian hare meat, because 
the people know nothing about it. You must proceed wisely 




I'liotogi-Mpli by the Author. 
Copyright, Ifloi, by the New Englaiul Belgian Hare Co. 

A BELGIAN HARE PROPERLY DRESSED. 



THE MEAT MARKET 113 

and rightlJ^ There is no sense in getting a big supply ready. 
for if you do. there will be no demand and the dealers will 
soon drop the meat. Go to the best market in your town or 
city and you will find a successful, practical business man as 
its owner, otherwise it would not be the best market. His 
name will give your industry a reputation, if you approach 
him in the right way. Say to him: "We are interested in 
building up a market for Belgian hare meat, because we are 
raising them and wish to sell the meat." He will break in and 
tell you he has no calls for the meat. Tell him you do not 
wish to have him buy of you. Tell him the meat is like that 
of young turkey and will find appreciation, as it always has. 
Ask him if he has any objections to your inserting in his ad- 
vertisement in the papers a line saying that on Thursday of 
each week he will have Belgian hare meat for sale at his 
place, properly fattened and dressed and inspected. Do not al- 
low him to have it on his counter every day. Your association 
can afford to pay for the line in the advertisement, if he does 
not care to pay for it himself. If you approach him in this 
way, he will see that you are in earnest. You have not been 
in his way, have not loaded him up with something which he 
cannot sell, have not asked him for a cent of money. He is a 
practical man and he will accept your proposition and work 
with you to make the market a success. Fix your price for 
the meat. Make the price which he will pay you say 20 cents 
a pound, and retail it at from 25 to 40. As a rule, the meat 
will find its way readily at the prices at which the best chick- 
en, turkey and game are selling. 

Build up the demand and the supply side by side. Your ob- 
ject at first is to get the meat cleared off the dealer's counter 
every Thursday by the time night comes. If the demand is 
worked up to the point of buying all the meat that is offered 
on one day in the week, choose a second day and advertise 
that also, and so on, working gradually up to the time when 
the market will be open every day in the week for Belgian 
hare meat. 

That is the way we worked up the Denver market, select- 
ing as the place for the experiment John Thompson's place, 
No. 1129 Fifteenth street, Green Brown, manager. This mar- 
ket has 65 clerks. The demand for Belgian hare meat grew 
from the first day, and as it grew, so the supply grew, keeping 
pace with it. Now seven breeders are raising Belgian hare 
meat for that market alone, and tons of the meat are sold 



114 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

every week, it being purchasable at all times. It is possible 
for tlie breeder to unload any amount of the meat in Denver 
on 15 minutes' notice and receive his money for it at the rate 
of from 15 to 18 cents a pound. It is retailed at from 18 to 20 
cents a pound. The Denver marketmen, being unable to get 
meat enough at home, are now sending as far away as Iowa. 

In December, 1900, I dropped in on Mr. Brown, at Thomp- 
son's. He reported all moving well, business at home good, 
but asked me to send him all the people who have hares to 
Tiutcher. He wrote all over the state and to several other 
states in order to be able to hustle enough meat for Thanks- 
giving, and came out nicely, supplying most of his customers, 
but was short on supply again through December. 

The open market in Kansas City was built up in the same 
way and the demand there is brisk all the time. 

It is not true that the Belgian has caused apprehensions in 
Los Angeles. The real trouble in Los Angeles was that the 
hundreds of breeders would not sacrifice their stocks for 
meat. They were looking foT good prices from eastern 
people, and eastern people were slow to send so far for 
breeders when they could get them nearer home. The fancy 
in Los Angeles is going to be on an unsatisfactory basis un- 
til the breeders there get their open market flourishing. 

I do not take much stock in the Belgian fur business. The 
pelt of a Belgian is worth from 50 cents to $1 for the breeder 
if for no other purpose than to strip so that he may save the 
young by providing pregnant does with fur for their nests, 
and also prevent show specimens from stripping their bellies. 

I have seen lap and carriage robes, and rugs, made from 
Belgian pelts, and if any breeder has the time and the inclina- 
tion to experiment, he may get up something which will inter- 
est him. Breeders who have experimented have told me of a 
good way to get the pelt off whole and tan it. They say: 

To take the skin off whole, cut from hock joint to hock 
joint across vent and draw the pelt off over the head and cut 
off at a point back of the ears; or, if the ears are to be left on 
the pelt, let the cutting be done on a line extending around to 
point of nose. Then place the pelt on a stretcher made of half- 
inch board six inches wide at the top and four inches at the 
bottom. Cut this in two parts, from end to end. Stretch the 
pelt over the two, place edges together and rub salt over the 
pelt when fresh, and then sprinkle with powdered alum and 
allow to di-y. When about dry, remove from boards and rub 



THE MEAT MARKET 115 

with the hand until dry. The skin will then be as soft and 
pliable as buckskin. Place the pelts where there will be plenty 
of fresh air. yet not in the direct rays of the sun. 

After the hide is removed, apply common table salt to the 
flesh parts and rub in well with the hand or an old cloth. This 
is what causes the hair to remain intact on the pelt. The salt 
strikes through and binds down the epidermis in which the 
roots of the hair are fixed, and if the salt is not allowed to 
strike directly upon the flesh side of the skin at all points, 
these places will soon be denuded of fur. Roll the skin up 
flesh to flesh, and allow it to remain a day or two, and if upon 
examination the second day any soft spots are to be found, 
salt again and work well with the hands. The pelt should 
now be scraped v/ith a knife to remove all flesh and fat. The 
skin should be thoroughly relaxed before scraping. After 
relaxing and scraping, place the hide in a solution of one part 
salt and four parts water, to which, when the salt has become 
thoroughly dissolved, add a few drops of sulphuric acid. Care 
should be taken in handling the acid, as it is a deadly burning 
poison. Allow the skin to remain in this solution for a few 
days, after whch remove and cleanse with water and partially 
dry. Then the real labor comes in. Work the skin while in a 
semi-moist condition, stretching and pulling in all directions 
and working it into a flexible condition. Should the skin 
become dry before thoroughly worked, apply a little fresh 
water on the flesh side. Never work the skin when dry, as it 
is very brittle and tears easily. A good way to break all the 
nbres is to rub over a square corner of some hard substance, 
such as a planed plank or an iron bar. This leaves the skin 
soft. 

If the hair becomes soiled by handling, it may be cleaned 
with gasoline or .a very weak solution of oxalic acid. Be very 
careful not to have the oxalic solution too strong. Use about 
one ounce of oxalic acid to two quarts of water. Allow the 
acid to dissolve thoroughly before using. 

The pelts of the common rabbit cannot be used in the man- 
ufacture of fur garments as the skin is tender, and while 
dressing comes off in pieces, and is therefore almost useless 
for that purpose. The skin of the Belgian hare is the reverse. 
It is tough and comes off intact, and can be used in the manu- 
facture of garments, such as ladies' boas, muffs, capes, etc. 
The fur is also used in the manufacture of hats. The ma- 
chinery consists of a hollow cone of copper, of the size of the 



116 CRABTRBB'S INSTRUCTIONS 

felt cones required by hatters. The cone is covered with per- 
forations and it fits onto a metal shaft of the diameter of its 
base by means of a collar, which can be tui'ned round by a 
belt, so as to carry the perforated cone with it. At the bottom 
of the metal shaft is a fan, moved by machinery, which pro- 
duces a strong downward draught, so that if the hairs are 
thrown against the cone, they are held tighlty by the currents 
of air through the perforations and as the cone revolves, its 
outer surface becomes entirely coated with the hair. When a 
sufficient thickness is secured, the smooth copper cone is 
easily drawn out, leaving a cone of wool, which is felted 
by the usual process of wetting, heating, etc. Another in- 
genious contrivance in this machine is to make the draught 
of air caused by the fan blow the rabbit fur forward to the 
cone so as to distribute it with an evenness which could not 
otherwise be obtained. The skins, after the hair has been 
removed from them, are sold to glue makers and are used, 
mixed with shreds of other skins, in the manufacture of glue 
and size. 



LESSON TWELVE. 

HOW TO COOK. 

FOR stuffing, take the liver, heart and kidneys, cut them 
up and fry them in an ounce of butter over a low fire, 
with a teaspoonful each of minced onion and carrot, 
and a quarter of a pound of minced mushrooms. After 
five minutes of frying, moisten with a sherry glass of sauterne, 
and add half an ounce of glaze. Continue to cook slowly and 
as soon as the meat is soft, let it get cold, and then empty the 
contents of the sauce-pan into a mortar, pounding and passing 
the whole through a wire sieve. The puree thus obtained, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, should be stirred into a bowl 
with the usual six ounces of breadcrumb, minced or powdered 
herbs, zest of lemon, two ounces of butter and two eggs. Be- 
fore packing the hare with this, line the inside with thin 
strips of cooked streaky bacon. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 1). 
Stuff as directed, or fill with veal forcemeat, sew up and 
truss. To truss properly, skewer the head tightly between 
the shoulders, and skewer the legs closely to the body. Fasten 
bacon on the back. Baste liberally while cooking. When 
partly done, dredge over with flovir and baste again. Have the 
fire a hot one. Serve at once from oven, placing the bacon on 
a separate dish. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 2). 
Fill with oyster or bread dressing and sew up. Skewer the 
neck under the hindquarters and place in covered roasting 
pan. Mix butter and fiour in a smooth paste and cover lightly 
over the hare. Add water as you would for any roast and bake 
from one to two hours, according to the age of the hare. Re- 
move cover the last twenty minutes and brown over nicely. 



118 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

garnish with cress or parsley. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 3). 

Place a layer of onions in the bottom of the pan, then a 
layer of the meat neatly cut. Add another layer of onions and 
alternate with meat until the pan is full. A double roaster 
is best, as it keeps the steam in more thoroughly. No water 
is needed, as that is furnished by the onions. 
ROAST HARE (NO. 4). 

Prepare a stuffing by chopping fine one-quarter pound salt 
pork and a small piece of onion. Pour boiling water over six 
Boston crackers, then chop with the pork, seasoning with 
sage, salt and pepper, adding what boiling water is necessary 
to moisten it, and stir in one egg. Wipe dry the hare, fill it 
with the stuffing and lard with small strips of halt pork. Allow 
20 mnutes for each pound when cooking. Put a piece of but- 
ter as large as an egg in a cup, fill with boiling water and use 
it to baste the hare while roasting. 

BOILED HARE (NO. 1). 

Skewer as heretofore directed. Put in kettle with enough 
hot water to cover. Boil until tender, time according to age. 
Dish and smother with mushrooms, onions, liver sauce or 
parsley and butter, as preferred. If liver sauce is used, boil 
the liver a little while and mince or rub through a sieve before 
adding the sauce. 

BOILED HARE (NO. 2). 

Slice one large onion, one chile pepper and four medium- 
sized tomatoes into a stew pan, and bring to a boil. Cut the 
hare in pieces and put in as soon as it boils; add one teaspoon 
of salt and enough hot water to cover. When nearly done, 
thicken with fiour and add butter the size of an egg. 
BOILED HARE (NO. 3). 

Boil the pieces in a small amount of water, using a covered 
vessel to retain the steam. When thoroughly done, pour over 
a cream gravy to which has been added a little sherry. A fiour 
gravy will answer if cream is not at hand. Serve hot. 
JUGGED HARE (NO. 1). 

Cut in pieces and season with pepper and salt. Fry brown 
and season with a little thyme and chopped parsley, nutmeg, 
cloves, mace, grated lemon peel, and add a couple of anchovies. 
Put a layer of the pieces in a wide-mouth jar, then a layer of 
thinly sliced bacon, and so on with alternate layers. Add two 
gills of water, cover and put in cold water, and boil three or 
four hours. Remove the jar, take out the unmelted bacon 



HOW TO COOK n& 

and make a gravy of a little butter, flour and ketchup. Some 
add a little grated lemon peel. 

JUGGED HARE (NO. 2). 

Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water to remove 
the loose hairs, dry thoroughly and cut in pieces. Stew with 
pepper and salt. Fry brov/n. Season with two anchovies, a 
sprig of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves 
and grated lemon peel. Put a layer of the pieces with the 
seasoning into a wide-mouth jug or jar, then a layer of bacon, 
sliced thin, and so on till all is used. Add a scant half-pint of 
water. Co\er the jar close and put in cold water. Let it boil 
two or three hours, according to the age of the hare. Take 
the jar out of kettle. Pick out the unmelted bacon and make a 
gravy of a little butter and flour, with a little catsup. A tea- 
spoonful of lemon peel will heighten the flavor. 
JUGGED HARE (NO. 3). 

Cut in pieces and place in a stone jar. Pill the space be- 
tween meat pieces with veal and bacon, a pound each, cut to 
dice; mix with liver of hare, also cut fine; add a teaspoonful 
each of mace, cloves and black pepper and salt. Place thin 
slices of bacon on top. Cover with a lid of plain paste made 
of flour and water. Set the jar in pan or pot containing 
water, and bake in slow oven. Keep from burning by placing 
a greased paper over the paste. Put no water to the meat. 
When done, set away to cool, then pound pieces of the hare, 
bacon and veal to a paste, mix in gravy from the bottom when 
boiled almost dry. Add more seasoning when needed. Press 
solid into cups or small jugs, covering top with melted butter,, 
and set away in a cool place. 

JUGGED HARE (NO. 4). 

Bone a hare and cut in small pieces. Cut also an equal 
weight of fa,t and lean ham, put in a stew-pan with a little 
butter. One cup of stock, pepper, salt, allspice and mace. Let 
it draw for an hour over a slow fire, then add a pint of port 
wine and boil very gently until the liquor is reduced to a glaze. 
Pound the meat tender in a mortar till very smooth. Add sea- 
soning if required. Pack closely in small porcelain pots. Pour 
a tablespoonful of clarified butter into each, and place in a 
slow oven for half an hour. When cold, fill up the pots with 
clarified butter. This will keep a month in a cool place. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 1). 

Cut into joints, salt iind roll in flour. Drop the pieces into 
boiling fat (butter and sweet lard), turning frequently the 



120 CRABTRBE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

first few minutes. Then let fry more slowly for about 20 
minutes, or until satisfied it is well done. Pile on platter and 
garnish with sliced tomatoes, stuck through with sprigs of 
parsley. For frying, select hares about three months of age, 
and always let stand over night before using. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 2). 

Use equal parts of lard and beef suet and have it deep 
enough to cover the hare. Cut in pieces. Roll in flour and 
fry in the boiling fat, turning frequently, and keep covered 
imtil nearly done, salting lightly after the first turning. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 3). 

Dress a hare not over three months old. Cut it up, roll each 
piece in flour, pepper and salt, and fry as you would chicken, 
until nicely browned on both sides. Use butter and any kind 
of frying fat. Keep tightly covered when frying. When 
nicely browned, raise the cover and add a spoonful of water 
to prevent burning. Continue to add a little water as needed, 
keeping cover close. Cook three-quarters of an hour. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 4). 

Soak the hare over night in equal parts of salted vinegar 
and water. Put one-fourth cup of butter in a frying pan, add 
a sliced onion ana fry till a light brown. Wipe the hare with 
a dry cloth, put in the pan and cover with claret, letting it 
simmer slowly for two or three hours. 

FRICASSEED HARE. 

Lay the pieces in cold water a little while, di'ain well and 
place in saucepan with pepper and thin slices of pickled pork. 
Cover with water and let simmer for 30 minutes. Add chopped 
onion and parsley, a blade of mace and a clove or two if liked. 
Make a smooth flour paste, stir in and let simmer until meat 
is tender, then add half a cup of cream. If two thin, add more 
flour. Boil up once and serve hot. 

HARE SALAD. 

Salt the hare and boil until tender, then shred very flne. Do 
not hash. Have ready your salad plates with fresh, crisp 
lettuce on each, and arrange thereon the shredded hare in a 
tasty manner. Sprinkle over with apple or any variety of 
chopped nuts. When readj' to serve, add the following dress- 
ing: Place on the stove and heat one cup vinegar and water, 
equally proportioned, to which add piece of butter the size of 
a walnut. Beat up one egg, to which add heaping teaspoonful 
flour, one teaspoon mustard, dissolved in water, two table- 
spoonfuls sugar, salt and pinch of cayenne pepper. Heat vine- 



HOW TO COOK 121 

gar and water to boiling point, add slowly the other ingredi- 
ents. Thoroughly mix and stir constantly until thick. Set 
aside and when cool thin with sweet cream. 
HARE ON TOAST. 

In a chafing dish put a tablespoonful of butter. In this fry 
one-half an onion sliced finely. Stick the other half full of 
<;loves. Roll young hare (previously cut in small pieces) in 
fiour and fry a delicate brown. Then add sufficient water to 
cover meat and allow to simmer gently, adding water when 
necessary. The remaining half of onion, one scant half-tea- 
spoon of allspice, cinnamon, three or four bay leaves, one 
small wine glass claret, salt and pepper to taste. If liked, 
throw one or two red peppers into boiling salted water for a 
few miniites, scrape out the inside of peppers and add. When 
done, thicken with a little flour and serve with slices of deli- 
cately browned toast. 

HARE CROQUETTES. 

Put a lump of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan over 
the fire and when hot stir in a teaspoonful of flour. Add cup 
of milk and when thick remove to cool. Pour over one pint 
finely chopped hare, into which has been stirred one beaten 
egg. Season with salt, pepper and a very little of onion. Shape 
in cones, roll in fine cracker crumbs and drop in smoking fat, 
frying a light golden brown. Arrange in rows on hot platter, 
sticking a sprig of parsley in top of each croquette. 
HARE PATTIES. 

Use the whitest meat and mince fine with suet. Braise the 
bo nes and cook in a stewpan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, grat- 
ed lemon peel, etc., and et simmer until the flavor is secured. 
Thicken with flour and butter and stew until quite hot. 
Bake the patties in patty pans and half flll with the mince. 
Put on covers. The whole process will take about an hour. 
HARE IN CHILE PEPPERS. 

Select one-half or a dozen of large smooth green chile pep- 
pers. Lay inside the oven until wilted. Then with a fine 
knife, remove the shiny outside. Also cut one side open and 
remove seeds and veins. Lay a few moments in ice water, 
then dry and fill with finely minced hare, seasoned any way 
to suit individual taste. Lay filled peppers side by side in 
fancy dish and grate white cheese over ail. 
CURRIED HARE. 

Cut into joints and place in stewpan with two tablespoon- 
fuls of drippings, or butter, and sliced onions to suit. Brown 



122 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

well and add a pint of soup stock. Mix a tablespoonful each 
of flour and curry, until smooth, in a little water. Place in a 
pan and add pepper and salt and a teaspoonful of mushroom 
powder. Let simmer for an hour or so. Add juice of half 
a lemon and a little parsley. Serve with boiled rice piled 
around it on side of platter. Water instead of soup stock 
may be used if the latter is not at hand. 
HARE PIE. 

Cut in pieces and boil until nearly done. Make a crust al- 
lowing a half cup of shortening, a half teaspoonful of baking 
powder and a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of flour. Roll to 
a quarter inch. Line the sides but not the bottom of a deep 
dish with the paste; fill with the meat, season with butter, 
salt and pepper. Fill with the liquor in which the hare was 
boiled, dredging over with flour. Cover with a thick crust and 
bake three-quarters of an hour. 

HARE PIE, RAISED. 

Cut hare in small pieces and season to taste with salt, pep- 
per and nutmeg. Cut half a pound of bacon to dice, and when 
the raised crust is made, place in dish with the meat and inter- 
sperse yolks of three or four eggs. Pour over the top tomato 
sauce or some good gravy. Cover with pastry, brush with 
egg, and ornament if you wish. Bake in moderate oven until 
a skewer may be thrust through to the bottom — about an hour 
and a half. Serve either hot or cold. 

HARE LIVER ENTREE. 

Boil the liver until tender and cut into pieces. Make a 
brown gravy and pour over the pieces. Garnish with mush- 
rooms. 

HARE BAKED WITH RICE. 

Cut up a hare. Stew gently in stock or water, with enough 
tomatoes to equal the amount of stock, and three green chile 
peppers, emptied of seeds and sliced fine. Salt to taste. While 
the hare is stewing, boil a cupful of rice in a quart of water, 
also boil one dozen eggs until hard. After the hare is about 
half cooked, line a baking dish, suitable for the table, with 
part of the cooked rice. Place the hare on the dish, with alter- 
nate layers of eggs, peeled and sliced. Pour over this the 
sauce, unstrained, and cover with a layer of rice and sliced 
eggs pressed well into the rice. Pour on the top half a cup of 
melted butter or thick sweet cream, and bake in a slow ovea 
half an hour and serve hot. 



HOW TO COOK 123 

JELLIED HARE. 

Boil until the meat falls from the bones, and leave in the 
water over night. In the morning chop fine, season with but- 
ter, pepper and salt, and press in a mould until firm. Or, boil 
tender, cut in small pieces and season with salt and pepper. 
Add half a box of gelatine soaked in cold water to the liquor 
(not less than a quart) in which the hare was boiled. Strain 
through thin muslin and when it begins to thcken add the 
meat. Put n moulds and place on ice to harden. 
HARE A LA CREME. 

Clean and cut up the hare. Melt two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, fry it in a small onion, minced, then fry the hare until 
a light brown. When well colored remove the hare and add 
to the butter an equal measure of corn starch. Stir until 
smooth, then add milk to make a thin sauce. Place the hare 
in a baking pan. Pour over it the sauce, strain and bake in the 
over until thoroughly done. 

HASENPFEFFER. 

Cut a hare in eight pieces and place in a jar with two or 
three sliced onions, a level tablespoonful of salt, teaspoonful 
of black pepper, half a teaspoonful of celery seed and allspice, 
and two bay leaves. Cover with vinegar. Let stand in a cool 
place for three days. Then place all in a saucepan, add a cup 
of water, and cook slowly one hour after it boils. Thicken 
the broth with flour or corn starch and serve. 



LESSON THIRTEEN. 
HOW TO CURE AILMENTS. 

BELGIAN HARES have few ailments. All their troubles 
are traceable directly to improper housing and feeding. Bel- 
gians kept outdoors, where ventilation, the most important 
point, takes care of itself, are healthy, provided ordinary 
cleanliness is observed. 

Hutches should be cleaned out regularly. The successful 
breeder in this, as in all other lines, is noted for the cleanli- 
ness of rabbitry and stock. The Belgian by nature is a cleanly 
animal and the breeder who cannot keep his place looking 
spick and span, and all his stock healthy, is either ignorant or 
lazy. 

I seldom have ailing Belgians and have never cared for the 
fine points of doctoring stock. A knowledge of Belgian hare 
diseases is essential, however, to all buyers, for a good .many 
salesmen are not above selling an ailing Belgian. 
CONSTIPATION. 

Symptoms: Absence of droppings. Patient sits quiet in 
corner of hutch and refuses food. Sometimes body is swollen. 

Treatment: The cause of constipation usually is too much 
dry food without sufficient drinking water. Keep the patient 
warm and dry. Supply it with green food. There is little fear of 
its not eating, though caution must be exercised in not allowing 
too much, and Avhen it has accomplished its purpose, it must 
be gradually discontinued, and a return made to the general 
mode of treatment and feeding. Should this vegetable diet 
fail to produce the desired result in a day or two, a more 
powerful remedy may be tried, as a little salt and water, which 
at this time will be drunk with a relish; or 12 dr. of Glauber 
salts may be dissolved in a pint of water, and two tablespoon- 



HOW TO CURE AILMENTS 125 

fuls given twice a day. Generally, three or four doses will 
accomplish all that is requisite. Or the patient's hindquarters 
may be placed in a dish of hot water as hot as can be borne, 
for ten minutes. In severe cases, give a bowel injection of 
warm water and castor oil, in proportion of three tablespoon- 
fuls of the water to one of oil. 

DIARRHOEA, OR SCOURS. 

Symptoms: Loose, watery dung, irregular appetite. Caused 
by too much green food, or food wet or stale. 

Treatment: Place the patient in a warm and comfortable 
hutch, supply it with dry food — such as crushed oats and dry 
bran — with which mix a dozen crushed juniper berries; or 
mix a little oatmeal and pea meal into a stiff paste, as a more 
general diet for a short time, until a change is observed in the 
dung. In the dry oats and bran a powdered acorn of small 
size may be mixed with each feed. As this is a valuable 
astringent, no medicine chest for the rabbitry should be with- 
out it. Don't assist nature too violently by giving an excess of 
astringent. This will bring on constipation. When a favor- 
able discharge is seen, a little water may be given, say two 
tablespoonfuls every third day. Sweet hay will be found of 
advantage and will be eaten freely. At little ground cinnamon, 
given in new milk, is an excellent remedy. Care should be 
taken to apply the remedies on the first symptoms of the 
disease. Summer time is generally the season in which rab- 
bits are most troubled, because of the absence of green food 
at hand. Cold water, and cold water and nitre, are recom- 
mended by some fanciers as almost certain cures in cases of 
of diarrhoea. 

EAR CANKER. 

Symptoms — The interior of one or both ears shows a red 
scab. There is inflammation in the ear and at the base of 
the skull. In feeling of the ears for quality, the judge often 
will detect the higher temperature which inflammation pro- 
duces. The judge, however, before he scores the ears, 
should have examined the interior of them for canker. 

Treatment — The cause of ear canker, in nine cases out of 
ten, is a burrowing insect. Flowers of sulphur sprinkled in 
the ear will kill the insect and help the Belgian to slough off 
the diseased skin. Sulphur is good for all skin complaints. 
Ear canker is entirely a local trouble and should cause the 
breeder no uneasiness. It is unknown in the clean, outdoor 
rabbitries of intelligent breeders. 



126 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

MOULTING. 

Treatment: When from eight to ten weeks old, Belgians 
begin their first moult, which is not always passed through 
without serious results. During this process of nature, care 
should be taken to keep the young ones warm, but it is by far 
the best plan to let them remain with the doe until they are 
safe through this trying ordeal, which will generally be about 
the tenth or twelfth week, after which the chances are that 
with due care and attention the patients will pull through. 
Feed the doe well with good nutritious food. It will be 
observed that the fur at three weeks is unlike that at ten 
weeks, and this, again, is more down-like than that of the 
moulted rabbit. In the second covering there will be the per- 
manent shades and markings, from which there will be little or 
no deviation, except in a few instances. The rabbits can be 
assisted in their moult by giving them plenty of soaked peas 
and barley meal, with a little boiled linseed mixed with it. 

A moult may be either loose or slipping. The times of 
moult are dependent upon the climate and also, if a doe, on 
the number of times she litters. A doe has a moult for each 
litter. The fur will be loose for about a week after kindling, 
when they begin to pick up. Starting to fatten a Belgian will 
produce a moult. The doe and litter are in best shape for ex- 
hibition purposes when the young are from five to six weeks 
old. Some mothers will nurse after six weeks. The usual 
weaning time is four weeks. 

When the fur is getting ripe it loses its lustre. The new 
fur is not bright until it has been out some days. 

For exhibition purposes, we do not wish the Belgian too 
near the moult, whether before or after. 

An unnatural moult, or a dropping out of fur, is sometimes 
produced by over feeding, which also causes enlargement of 
the liver, water around the heart and on the brain, resulting 
in blind staggers, staring eyes, fits and death. 

SLOBBERS. 

Symptoms: Flow of saliva-like fluid from the mouth. Cause 
indigestion. Prevalent among young stock where litters are 
too large. The young, failing to get nourishment from the 
overworked does, help themselves to food from the pen, and 
their stomachs are not strong enough to digest the mass. 

Treatment: Keep the patient in a cool, well-ventilated 
liutch, but sheltered from draughts, cold winds, or the direct 



HOW TO CURE AILMENTS 127 

rays of the sun. See that its bowels are kept open by a regu- 
lar supply of green food. For a local application, wash its 
mouth with alum and water every four hours, or rub a handful 
of powdered alum and salt, equal parts, well into the affected 
parts. Give half teaspoonful doses of syrup of figs until the 
bowels move freely. Feed mash with half a teaspoon of condi- 
tion powder to every four ounces. Give food which is easy 
to digest. See that the salt supply is regular. Ten drops of oil 
of .iuniper and sweet spirits of nitre mixed with the drinking 
water morning and evening is another good remedy for 
slobbers. 

SNUFFLES. 

Symptoms: Sneezing or coughing followed by a discharge 
from the nose of a white, glutinous matter. This complaint 
is of two kinds. One comes from a simple cold in the head 
and it is not infectious. The other is hereditary or chronic 
and may be communicated. In its symptoms the disease bears 
a strong resemblance to influenza in the human subject, and 
is to be attributed to the same cause, namely, exposure to cold 
draughts, or sudden extremes of heat and cold. Belgians in 
damp hutches, without proper protection from cold draughts, 
are liable to this troublesome and often fatal complaint which, 
if not attended to as soon as observed, requires long and pa- 
tient treatment. The rabbit is heard sneezing, while a moisture 
is perceptible around the nostrils. Loss of appetite follows, 
and in a few days the nostrils are apparently closed with 
mucus. Inflammation of the lungs frequently supervenes, and 
death. A slight cold, if allowed to run, will develop into 
snuflfles. 

Treatment: Keep the patient isolated, warm and well fed. 
Give a few boiled potatoes, with a little salt. Barley meal, 
mixed into a paste and given warm will be beneficial, and 
carrots should form at this time part of the vegetable diei. 
"Wash the nose, mouth and forelegs well with carbolic soap. 
As medicine, give three grains of sulphate of copper, finely 
powdered, every day for three or four days. Then, when the 
mucus disappears, a cure is nearly certain, but care and special 
attention are required for a few days more, and it will bo 
better if a grain of the sulphate be sprinkled with the tran 
every other day until the patient is perfectly restored to 
health. The disease sometimes will continue two or three 
weeks, especially in damp, foggy weather. A useful mode of 
treatment is to sponge the nose with vinegar and ^yater in 



]28 CRABTREB'S INSTRUCTIONS 

equal proportions, as warm as the rabbit can well bear it. 
Give one of these powders three time a day, separate from 
food, with a teaspoon: Powdered licorice 36 grains, powdertd 
nitre 24 grains, powdered ginger 12 grains, ipecacuana one 
and one-half grains. Mix thoroughly and divide into 12. 
powders. In hard cases, use two drops tincture of aconite in 
the food, twice a day, and the patient will stop sneezing. Feed 
warm mash with a teaspoonful of flaxseed in it. 
CAKED UDDER. 

Treatment: Feed sparingly for a few days and rub gently 
with marshmellow ointment, first sponging the udder with, 
warm water and wiping dry. 

URINE, RED OR UNNATURAL COLOR OF 

Symptoms: Dark urine, red as if tinged with blood; patient 
out of sorts. 

Treatment: Place he patient in a warmer hutch^ if the one 
it occupies be not comfortable, and supply it with good food 
— as oatmeal, boiled potatoes, given warm, a few oats, a little 
endive, dandelions and carrots. Garden parsley, green in sum- 
mer, dry in winter. A few drops of sweet spirits of nitre 
occasionally. Two tablespoonfuls of water in which bran has 
been soaked 24 hours may be given every day until the urine 
presents its natural appearance, which it should do in from 
four to eight days. 

VENT DISEASE. 
. .Symptoms — The outward manifestation of vent disease is- 
ulceration. The red membrane is turned out and it is seen 
to be ulcerated. 

Treatment — This is a serious disease of the blood, denoting 
true blood poison. It is infectious and care should be ob- 
served in handling an animal so infected. If it is a cheap Bel- 
gian kill it at once. If it is a valuable Belgian, it also ought 
to be killed, in nine cases out of ten. I have known mer- 
curial treatment to cure some cases. In other cases, where 
carbolated vaseline or some other salve had been used as a 
local application, the outward manifestations had been con- 
cealed, but the poison was still in the blood and in case of a 
doe, her litter, when it came along, was a mass of disease, 
all the young dead. 

Other manifestations of impure blood are festering ab- 
cesses. Poor blood is extremely prevalent in many English 
rabbitries and every imported animal should be closely ex- 



HOW TO CURE AILMENTS 129 

amined for vent disease as well as ear canker. In some of 
the rabbitries which I visited while in England 75 percent of 
the Belgians were infected. The beginner seldom examines 
a Belgian for this trouble, principally because he does not 
know how to handle the animal for proper inspection, also 
because he suspects nothing because no sign of disease can 
be observed by superficial look. I have picked up Belgians in 
many rabbitries full of high-priced imported stock and made 
the owner acquainted for the first time with the fact that 
some of his stock was diseased. No breeder should sell an 
infected Belgian, and if he does, the purchaser should have 
his money back. A breeder who discovers vent disease in his 
stock should purge his rabbitry of it and find out the cause 
of it, if he can, and remove the cause. One imported buck, 
however valuable, if infected, will ruin a rabbitry and should 
be killed in short order. 



LESSON FOURTEEN. 

EXPERIENCES IN CURING AILMENTS. 

No. 300 — "I do not desire to pose as a final authority of this 
or any subject connected with the care and breeding of hares. I 
shall be willing at all times to give the results of my obser- 
vations and study on all subjects connected with the Belgian. 
Snuffles is caused either by neglect and filthy hutches, over- 
crowding in pens, or exposure to sudden and extreme changes 
of temperature. It can be detected in most cases in its first 
stages, by examining the nose and front feet. If the nose 
discharges a sticky, white mucus, the proper treatment should 
be applied at once. The disease has not become snuffles at this 
stage. It is merely an indication, and if from dirt or exposure, 
the correcting of these ills will bring about a cure, but if left 
to itself will, probably, result in a genuine case of pnuffles. 
Sneezing alone is not an indication of snuffles, and 
if not frequent need cause no alarm. Most all animals 
will sneeze. The best means of stopping the difflculty :n the 
beginning is to take the individual and put it in a pen alone, 
where there is sunlight and air in plenty. Keep clean and fed 
regularly with the usual diet, and an addition occasionally of 
a quantity of 'fitie oil meal, most cases will need no other 
treatment. If not checked, the disease will increase in sever- 
ity, the discharge from the nose becomes offensive, the odor 
like decayed cheese, and can be easily detected. No matter 
how much care is taken to overcome the smell, it is unmis- 
takable. At this stage, the subject looks dui.. the fur on end, 
and though it eats well for a time, soon loses flesh. The dis-, 
ease goes to the lungs, or stomach, and then to the bowels, 
causes a fetid discharge which, in a few hours, will be fatal. 
My observations, which have extended to many of the largest 



EXPERIENCES IN CURING AILMENTS 131 

rabbitries in the country, have satisfied me that the disease 
will be found wherever overcrowding and filth abound. I 
find, also, that almost all have some of it, though among the 
older breeders I find none of that anxiety and fear about it 
that is prevalent with those newer in the business. If han- 
dled properly, the breeder has no cause for uneasiness, but 
I advise taking it up promptly, and if the subject :ioes not 
show improvement after isolation and treatment for a reason- 
able time, kill it, but if be a valuable animal, I would 
not be too quick with that remedy. I believe if the subject be 
a doe, of fine strain, I would breed her promptly, and breed a 
nurse doe at the same time, and when the young comi trans- 
fer the litter to the nurse doe, and raise them in that way. I 
do not believe that the disease is either contagious or infec- 
tious, but to be on the safe side is the best. In this way, you 
preserve her strain in your rabbitry. If she can stand an- 
other breeding, breed her again, following the same course. 
If she dies, as he probably will. You have lost only the doe. 
You have her young, and keep them clear of the disease." 

No. 301 — "I had a valuable rabbit that had been suffering 
from an obstinate case of constipation cured completely by 
following the prescription of a friend. The rabbit had been 
ailing for some time. It had been fed with a variety of green 
foods, and had even had doses of salts and senna tea, but 
without result. My friend advised an injection of warm 
water and castor oil, in the proportion of three tablespoon- 
fuls of the former to one of the latter, administered with an 
injection pipe fastened to a small sheep's bladder, to be fol- 
lowed, if this failed, in three hours, by an injection of warm 
water alone. And if this did not produce the desired result, 
the water and oil to be again tried. He further recommended, 
as a last resource, that the hind legs of the rabbit should be 
placed in warm water for about ten minutes. I gave the warm 
bath, as direced, with perfect success, and have since tried 
it in other cases with equally favorable results." 

No. 302 — "In a case of snuffles, first isolate the rabbit, and 
place it in a warm, dry hutch. Second, bed it down with 
sweet hay, and for a few days wash the discharge from the 
nose with warm green-tea Iction, feeding with s~>od. oats, 
swede turnips or carrots. If the discharge from the nose con- 
tinues, then administer two drops of tincture of aconite in its 
food, morning and evening, until the patient gives up sneezing, 
and then continue the medicine every day until thn rabbit 



132 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

is restored to health. Third, should the rabbit discharge trom 
the eyes, and soreness show itself on the nostrils, then wash 
with a sponge twice a day with carbolic acid lotion (one drop 
of carbolic to ten of water), being careful not to let the rabbit 
lick the lotion and the soreness in a few days will be removed. 
Examine the fore feet of the rabbit, and should any matter 
from the nose be clotted on them, wash it off with warm 
water to prevent it from irritating the wound on 
the nose, and good results will soon be observed. Fourth, 
should the rabbit have a bad appetite, give some warm tea 
leaves, and almost dry, or any similar tonic, in the food. I 
have known cases of hereditary or congenital snuffles result- 
ing from breeding from a sire suffering from the disease at 
the time of breeding, and such cases are generally incurable." 

No. 303 — "Experience has taught me that hares, when they 
have their little sicknesses and troubles, are very easily cured 
if taken in time, and a little judgment and care used. Parties 
say to me: 'My little hares are dying. What is the matter?' 
Upon inquiry, I have ascertained in almost every case a very 
careless manner of feeding. One gentleman who had come to 
me for advice said: 'I keep food before them all the time. 
I do not know what more I can do.' The fact of the matter 
was that he had fed them to death. Hares can no more eat 
all the time than can people, or any other creature. Another 
gentleman said his little ones had the slobbers. 'Do /ou ever 
salt them?' was asked. 'No.' Therein lay one great cause of 
their having the slobbers." 

No. 304 — "Every breeder who has had experience in raising 
Belgian hares or rabbits of any variety has suffered more or 
less loss through slobbers. It is caused by the food becoming 
impacted in the stomach and forming an indigestible mass on 
which the gastric juice does not act, the result being that the 
saliva instead of passing itito the stomach and ai.iiug the di- 
gestion, oozes out of the mouth, forming an irritating, slimy 
substance which adheres to the fur. The hare in its efforts 
to clean itself with its front legs besmears its face, neck, chest 
and front legs. After an examination of the contents of the 
stomach of several hares after death from slobbers, the same 
impacted condition of food was found in each. Knowing that 
salt was used with nuts, popcorn, etc., to act as a disintegrator 
arid to aid digestion in the human stomach, I arrived at the 
conclusion that it would have the same effect on the hare. I 
found that the young hares did not take enough from the 



EXPERIENCES IN CURING AILMENTS 133 

lump salt placed in the hutch to accomplish what [ desired, 
namely, the disintegration of the contents of the stomach and 
thus prevent the slobbers. Even by adding a dish ot common 
barrel salt, they would not in all cases eat enough of it to 
keep them from having the slobbers, therefore I have adopted 
this method: After they show symptoms of slobbers a tea- 
spoon of salt water administered as it would seem necessary 
from the stage of the disease will usually effect a cure un- 
less the condition is too far advanced. A rubber bulb syringe 
will be found very convenient in giving liquid medicines to 
hares." 

No. 305 — "For slobbers, wash outside the mouth and jaws 
with warm alum water twice a day. This will contract the 
glands and stop the flow of saliva. Powdered borax in water 
is also very good; give half a teaspoon of some simple laxative 
until the bowels move freely. Do not give any food hard to 
digest for a few days. Bathe their eyes with sulphate of 
zinc, about three grains to an ounce of water, and they will 
open immediately. This is a grand remedy for an eye trouble, 
but don't leave it where the rabbit can get near it, for it is 
poisonous." 

No. 306 — "Diarrhoea is best treated, not by cold water alone, 
as I first suggested, but by nitre in solution, which is much 
more efficacious, and the rabbit drinks it more eagerly. In 
snuffles I find powdered caraway, given in hot meal, superior 
to all other remedies." 

No. 307 — "If you wish to breed a first-class show specimen, 
refrain from giving gi'een food, or give it only in moderate 
quantities, such food having a great tendency to make the 
blood poor. To obtain the dark color in the points, and soft 
silky fur, you must keep the blood of the rabbits in as rich a 
state as possible. Young ones especially cannot stand much 
green food, being very subject to get relaxed in the bowels, 
which will kill them off in an extraordinarily short ti.nie; and 
it will be well to watch them after each meal, in order to 
counteract such effect as it appears. This may be done in the 
shortest space of time by giving one or two acorns, which no 
well-conducted rabbitrv should ever be without. They should 
also be kept in a clean, well-ventilated hutch. 



LESSON FIFTEEN. 
HOW TO MARK AND RECORD. 

THE BEST way to mark Belgian hares is by punching 
a notch or half moon in the edges of the ears. This is 
the national adopted system of marking. A conductor's 
punch, which may be carried in the vest pocket, is 
needed. Usually, these punches have two sets of dies, one to 
punch a circular disk, the other a v-shaped notch, or other de- 
vice. Anybody who has seen a through ticket at the end of 
the route will appreciate the variety of devices available to 
a purchaser of a punch of this description. 

In using the punch, do not cut a hole in the body of the 
ear, but on the edge. 

The operation gives little or no pain to the animal, draws no 
blood, is never outgrown or lost, and does not affect the car- 
riage of the ear. 

Every ear has a thick and a thin edge, and always speak of 
them as thick and thin edges. Never use the terms inner or 
outer edge in speaking of the ears, for whether the thick edge 
is the inner or outer depends on the manner in which the ears 
are carried by the Belgian, or handled by the breeder. The 
right ear, of course, is on the right side of the head as the 
Belgian is facing. 

The tip edge of each ear is numbered 4 (see accompanying 
diagram). The first number on the thick edge of the ear is 
No. 1. Half way between No. 4 and the bottom of the ear, 
on the thick edge, is No. 2. No. 3 is on the thick edge of the 
ear, half way between No. 2 and No. 4, just as No. 1 is half 
way between No. 2 and the bottom of the ear. 

On the thin edge of the ear. No. 6 is half way between the 
tip and the bottom of the ear. No. 7 is half way between No. 



HOW TO MARK AND RECORD 



135 
No. 5 is half 



6 and the bottom of the ear, on the thin edge 
way between No. 6 and No. 4. on the thin edge. 

Never use No. 1 and No. 2 unless you are short of numbers, 
because the ear is thick there, and bristly hair is on it there, 
and the mark is not a pretty one at those two points. 

Sometimes silver wire is used, the ductile, soft-tempered 
kind which can be easily twisted without breaking. This 




HOAV TO MARK A BELGIAX. 

This is tlie national adopted system of marking, and is by far tlie most 
practical, snperseding buttons, tags or anything of that nature. Every 
breeder should mark his Belgians, and no judge will score a Belgian with- 
out marking it. As will be seen, there are seven positions on each ear. 
which may be varied indefinitely. A conductor's punch should be used 
and a small notch or half-circle cut in the ear at the desired location. The 
operation causes no pain and draws no blood. The mark cannot be effaced 
or outgrown and it does not affect ear carriage. 

wire is run through the cartilage of the desired number, and 
twisted with a pair of pliers, or with the fingers. If wire is 
used, Nos. 1 and 2 may be employed, the objections mentioned 
in the case of notching with a punch noted previously not 
applying. 

In numbering your Belgians, begin at No. 7 on the right 
ear and exhaust the available numbers on that ear. Proceed 



136 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

next on the left ear from No. 7 and exhaust the available 
numbers on that ear. Then combine the numbers in this 
way: 

R 7 and 5, R 7 and 4, R 7 and 3. 

Same on left ear: L 7 and 6. L 7 and 5, L 7 and 4, L 7 
and 3. 

Then R 7, L 7; R 7, L 6; R 7, L 5; R 7, L 4; R 7, L 3. 

Next R 6, L 7; R 6, L 6; R 6, L 5; R 6, L 4; R 6, L 3. 

And so on. Always work from the right ear to the left. 

Suppose your last marking was R 4, L 3. Then your next 
Belgian would be marked R 3, L 7. 

In the rules and regulations of every show should be in- 
cluded the notification to exhibitors that every Belgian should 
be marked according to the national system. 

According to the rules of progression, there is practically 
no limit to the number of variations of which this system is 
capable. 

A certain number may be adopted for a litter mark and 
this should appear on each of the young from that doe, va- 
ried at otlaer points on the ears to differentiate the members 
of each litter. 

Mark the young when you take them away from the doe. 

The book-keeping of a rabbitry is an important feature. 
Pedigrees and markings will not mean anything unless they 
are kept in a positive, accurate manner, available for refer- 
ence and inspection of customers at all times. 

A book is essential to order and accuracy, according to my 
experience, although I have no doubt that a satisfactory rec- 
ord could be kept by means of the modern card index. 

The book I use was made in Denver and its pages are 
printed and ruled in a manner suitable for the entry of stock. 

A feature of every system of book-keeping is a tin tag hold- 
er on each hutch with places for three tags which may be 
easily slipped in and out of the holder at will. 

The brood doe has a card with hutch number at top, then 
her score, her ear mark, her name, when bred, name of buck, 
to which bred, and finally the number of young kindled and 
weaned. 

On the back of the card you may put the price, or any data 
you desire. 

The cards for young does and young bucks have five divi- 
sions each. When you take the litter away from the mother, 
each should have a litter mark which in turn is transferred 



HOW TO MARK AND RECORD 137 

to the cards. 

When you name the Belgian, set apart a page of the book, 
placing the name at the top and following with record. When 
the page is full, turn to the back part of the book, where the 
overflow pages are bound, and continue the record there. 
There is an index at the back of the book where is entered 
the number of page on which the Belgian's name and record 
appears. 

At three months you separate the bucks from the does, 
and then you need cards marked (1) Bucks and (2J Does. 

A breeding certificate should be given to each purchaser of 
a bred doe, or to a purchaser of service from a stud buck. On 
the stub of the breeding sertificate the breeder keeps his own 
record, tearing off the larger portion for the purchaser. 



LESSON SIXTEEN. 
EXHIBITING. 

ON classification, as surely as on judge, hinges the 
success of the Belgian hare show as regards satisfac- 
tion or dissatisfaction among the exhibitors. 

Absolute satisfaction means much for the success, 
financial, of the future shows, consequently it behooves every 
association to see to it that their show has the proper classi- 
fication arranged to give the best possible results. It is al- 
most superfluous for me to mention the fact that the interest- 
ing part of competition is to have the stock so classified that 
similar ones are in direct competition as regards sex, size, 
age and condition. 

The closer the competition the more interesting becomes 
the occurrence to the majority of the interested parties, and 
this is decidedly true of the spectators. 

There are only two ways of doing anything — a right way 
and a wrong way; so experience being the best teacher, it is 
reasonable to suppose that the more experience we have had 
on these lines the more nearly perfect would we be able to ar- 
range such a classifioation. 

In poultry shows the matter is comparatively easy on ac- 
count of the varieties being so numerous as to make the mat- 
ter interesting, but when it comes to having an entire show 
of Belgian hares, it has taken considerable thought to get 
the matter so arranged as to bear evenly at every point 
touched and all recognize the advisability of the absence of 
friction. 

The one which I herewith submit has been tried in whole 
or in part at numerous places where I have judged large 
shows and never in a single instance has there been a word 



EXHIBITING 139 

of criticism on the judge or the classification by any sane per- 
son. 

On the other hand I have been compelled to meet a clumsy 
and incompetent classification at other shows with the conse- 
quent result of criticism on both judge and classification. 

A person without experience will make mistakes at every 
possible point where they will undertake to change these 
classes, said mistakes being easily pointed out to them, and 
as easily discovered by them after it is too late to be applied 
to this show. 

I do not wish to appear arbitrary in this matter and will 
freely say that any desirable thing may be added to it by 
show committees, but these classes should positively not be 
changed, unless you plainly want to run onto unforeseen 
troubles innumerable. 

These are based on the following recognized facts, that 

(1) The best animal should win. 

(2) The owner is not what is being judged. 

(3) The most practical way is the best; hence 

(4) Do not tempt the owner to misrepresent the age of his 
stock any oftener than is absolutely necessary, but instead 
arrive at the classification by weight, said weighing to be done 
by a disinterested show committee. 

The entry blank should contain the following information, 
when filled out: 

(1) Entry No. 

(2) Variety. 

(3) Date of birth. 

(4) Sex. 

(5) Exhibitor. 

The coop-tag should contain the following, only: 

(1) Entry No. 

(2) Date of birth. 

(3) Weight. 

(4) Sex. 

The classes should comprise the following verbatim, and 
may be added to, on these practical lines: 

(1) Mature buck, 1st, 2d, 3. 

(2) Immature buck, 8-pound, class 1, 2, 3. 

(3) Immature buck, 7i/^-pound, class 1, 2, 3. 

(4) Immature buck, 7-pound, class 1, 2, 3. 

(5) Immature buck, 6-pound, class 1, 2, 3. 

(6) Immature buck, ,5-pound, class 1, 2, 3. 



140 CRABTREB'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Next, same as above on does. 

(13) Family of doe and litter (litter not weaned, and to 
consist of five or more, the same to be between the ages of 
2 and 6 weeks, 1st, 2d, 3d. 

(14) Collection of six bucks, weaned, as old as 6 weeks and 
not weighing as much as 5 pounds, 1st, 2d, 3d. 

(15) Same as above on collection of does. 

(16) Sweepstakes. 

(17) Grand sweetstakes. 

Make the basis of the 16th and 17th whatever is deemed 
most advisable. 

Outside of the two latter this gives a list of 45 premiums 
to be competed for, 15 of which are firsts, 15 seconds and 15 
thirds. 

It is a most interesting one, and has been thoroughly tried. 

The following should govern the arrangements: 
RULES AND REGULATIONS. 

(1) The judge must not be told of the name or owner- 
a specimen into the class below which it so nearly approaches. 

(4) Eight pounds is considered standard weight for ma- 
ture specimens. 

ship of any animal on exhibition until after the awards are 
made. (Disregard of this rule is punishable by the exclusion of 
such offending party and their exhibit from the privileges and 
benefits of the show.) 

(2) Exhibits shall be weighed by a disinterested commit- 
tee appointed by the management. 

(3) In immature classes, a full ounce of shortage throws 

(5) Official cut for shortage in mature specimens is at the 
rate of two points per pound on such shortage. 

(6) Official age of maturity is 10 months. 

(7) An animal seriously diseased will be thrown out of 
competition. 

GENERAL POINTS. 

Handle your animal a great deal and teach it the ideal pose, 
especially with regard to ear carriage. Do not waste time 
trying to get a cheap animal Belgian to pose. As a rule such 
time and effort are thrown away. 

In the course of an exhaustive paper in one of the English 
pet stock papers, by Mr. J. Jennings of London, an old-time 
exhibitor and efficient secretary, I find the following admira- 
ble advice : 



EXHIBITING 141 

Having decided to hold a show, two points immediately pre- 
sent themselves for consideration — the accommodation and 
the judging. The number of entries selected will regulate the 
dimensions of the building; but, if possible, it should always 
be arranged that the specimens shall be in a single tier, for 
the convenience of visitors, and for the great advantage gained 
in light. The pens must be provided with doors, for rabbits 
can only be properly judged by removing each from each pen. 
The bottom of each pen should be liberally covered with saw- 
dust, on the top of which is a good handful of hay. but not too 
much, else the rabbit will burj^ itself in it. Care should be 
taken to have good, sound food for them. Nothing is more dis- 
graceful than to omit proper attention on this part. Good oats, 
carrots and swedes are the safest food to have on hand, though 
in certain parts of the country green food may be given mod- 
erately, providing it is fresh. Whenever it is possible, the 
pens should be fixed in position and arranged for the reception 
of their intended occupants before the latter arrive. The rab- 
bits are generally long enough in confinement on their journey 
without being unnecessarily detained on their arrival. 

The most important officer is the secretary, and while, on 
the one hand, no one should aspire to that office till he feels 
prepared to carry out to the letter such an undertaking, it 
should be borne in mind by those with whom he is associated 
that it least a hearty vote of thanks is due him at the finish. 

Exhibitors must properly label their stock. They must also 
state the prices at which they will sell. The judges appointed 
to award the prizes will be instructed to disqualify any ex- 
hibit which, in their opinion, has been tampered or improperly 
dealt with, and no appeal from their decision will be enter- 
tained on any ground whatever, the entrance fees in each case 
being forfeited. In the event of any one lodging a protest 
against an award, the individual so protesting shall be re- 
quired to deposit $5 as security for its bona fide character. 
It shall then be examined by judge or judges, committee, and 
a nominee of protestor. The amount is to be forfeited if the 
protest turns out to be frivolous, but returned in full, and the 
exhibit or exhibits disqualified, where protest is found correct. 
No person will be admitted to the exhibition room during the 
judging, under any pretence whatever, except those actually 
engaged in the arrangements; and during the whole of the 
show all the specimens will be in the custody of the commit- 
tee (who are non-exhibitors) and may not be touched or han- 



142 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

died by the owners, or any unauthorized persons, under any 
circumstances. 

Rabbit exhibitors have just as much claim to have their 
specimens judged by those who have made rabbits their study 
as poultry or pigeon exhibitors have the right of refusing to 
submit their exhibits to rabbit judges. 

Several weeks before he show takes place, it should be ad- 
vertised, and the advertising continued until the show takes 
place. Another point — always advertise the judge or judges 
selected. 

No specimen should ever be sent to an exhibition suffering 
from a contagious disease which, although not perceptible to 
the general public, is nevertheless known to its owner. Re- 
verse the case, and suppose that a valuable rabbit of yours 
caught a complaint at a show, and died therefrom, what would 
you say or think? 

The great point is to keep your rabbits when they are at 
home in as nearly the same conditions as they will be subject 
to in the show pen. This is highly important, and there is a 
great deal more in it than many credit. Of two evils, that of 
high temperature is the worst. It is apt to throw them into 
moult and produce loose coats. A medium course is the best 
to adopt. 

Duly appointed judges, who for years have made rabbits 
their study, should always be engaged. The combination of 
natural gift and study that makes the judge, embraces a 
knowledge of the special features and points. 




CopyrJKlit, I'.iiil, liy tlie New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING COLOR OF BODY AND SIDES. 

For Description See Page 147. 



LESSON SEVENTEEN. 
JUDGING— HOW TO SCORE. 

GENERAL rules — Do not. unless forced, change the 
height of the scoring table. Raise it or lower it until 
it is right, then keep it so. 

In regard to the condition of light, when scoring, se- 
lect a condition which can more often and more nearly be met 
with than any other under the various conditions of weather. 
The best way to meet that condition is to examine the Belgian 
on a table three feet high, placed five feet firom an open door, 
said door to be in north wall of building, with unobstructed 
frontage and to be seven feet in height, the time to be 3.30 
p. m. in January, or on a clear afternoon. The top of the table 
snould be dull in color not white. Never score with the sun- 
light or its reflection striking the floor, table or surroundings. 
Place your left shoulder towards the light. Unless you study 
the question of light and fix your judgment in this respect, you 
will arrive at different results. When impossible to meet the 
condition in light before named, and the light be stronger than 
required, be lenient in scoring the color requirements. If the 
light be weaker than required, punish more severely on color 
requirements than the color appears to you. 

The indications which you make on the score card in the 
various requirements must not be considered exact, but the 
nearest possible fraction to reach, in cutting by one-quarter 
points. In scoring a Belgian, treat it fairly in the following 
manner: The first requirement you encounter that appears 
to you to deserve as near one decision as another, give the ani- 
mal the benefit of it. The next place (on the same animal) 
where you encounter doubt, take advantage of the animal. 
Follow right along in this manner. You will have no trouble 



146 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

in remembering wliether the Belgian is in uebt to you or you 
are in debt to the Belgian, as you go along. 

When we pass anything as perfect, we mean that it is nearer 
perfect than one-quarter off. 

In all cases, such as ears and front feet, in estimating quali- 
ty, take a handful. That is to say, .n estimating quality of 
ears, take them both together, four thicknesses. In estimating 
quality of front feet, which is fineness of bone, take both the 
feet in one hand, the left, and fieel of them. 

If you change your method of operation in arriving at re- 
sults, you will arrive at different scores. Make every effort to 
arrive at the same thing in the same manner. 

Where one requirement encroaches on another, punish the 
requirement encroached upon. Do not punish the requirement 
that encroaches. A good way to keep this rule in mind is to re- 
member that it is the under dog which gets the punishment. 

I have found the folloAving to be the rule, with occasional 
exceptions; Always cut side color at least one-quarter; color 
01 hindquarters, at least one-quarter; color under jaws, at least 
one-quarter; shape of flank and rib, at least one-quarter; 
shape of head, at least one-quarter; ear lacing, at least one- 
quarter; color of ears, at least one- quarter; color of hind feet, 
at least one-quarter; neck, a least one-quarter. 

Immature specimens are those which are not 10 months old. 
TESTING FOR DISQUALIFICATIONS. 

To test a tail for wryness be on your guard when you see a 
tail decidedly white on one side and dark on the other. Take 
hold of the tail, pull it back and out and watch it as it flies 
into position. If it flies back askew on repeated trials, it is 
wry. A perfect tail, even if carried one one side naturally, as 
it sometimes is, will be straight when it flies back after pul- 
ling out. The carriage of tail will determine whether or 
not it is wry if the specimen is timid. 

White spots or bunches on the front feet disqualify. If 
you flnd a bunch as large as a half dollar, refuse to score 
such an animal, for it v/ould be nearer a Silver Gray rabbit 
than a Belgian. If a Belgian is more than three points off 
in the matter of stray hairs I would not score it. 

A Belgian blind in one or both eyes should not be scored. 

The other disqualifications are self-explanatory. 
GROUPS ON THE SCORECARD. 

The first group on the scorecard, worth 20 points, is called 
"color proper." We have other things in other sections 



HOW TO SCORE 147 

which we call a color requirement. 

The group headed "symmetry," worth 20 points, is known as 
"general shape." 

If we fill out a card to the full valuation of each require- 
ment, we find the total of the size column to be 11%, the 
total of the shape column 31 1/^, the total of the color column 
45% and the total of the quality column 11% points. 

That is to say. we consider first, a fine-shaped racy appear- 
ance; second, redness; third, a combination of ticking and 
ear lacing; fourth, size and quality, which are worth the 
same. A cheap animal is known by its soft flesh, loose skin, 
heavy coat, full breast, sleepy eye and generally lazy disposi- 
tion. These defects usually accompany each other. The color 
is the principal requirement, or 45% percent. Next in impor- 
tance comes the shape, which is worth 31% percent. Next in 
equal importance come size and quality, each worth 11% per- 
cent. All colors but red are worth 15 plus 4 plus 2 plus 2%, 
total 23%, leaving red worth 22. as full cuts are reckoned. 
STRAY HAIRS. 

Stray hairs are white hairs. In looking for them, examine 
the Belgian particularly in body color, ear color, front feet 
and limbs, color of hind feet. Look in the fur of the top half 
of the body. You will have to look thoroughly and sharply to 
find stray hairs, but nearly every Belgian has some. Look at 
the fur in the places described closely and intently, using the 
fingers occasionally to aid you in the search. When you find 
one, it will be white all its distance, having no ticking or red 
color. 

In the case of small patches, be one-half as severe as if the 
stray hairs were scattered. I mean by this that a bunch of 
50 white hairs should be cut as much as 25 stray hairs scat- 
tered in the body. 

Stray hairs are hard to see on a poor Belgian but are com- 
paratively easy to find on a good red animal. Look harder 
and more carefully at a poor Belgian for stray hairs. 

Cut one-quarter of a point for seven stray hairs, one-half a 
point for 16, three-quarters of a point for 30. 
COLOR OF BODY. 

Body color is estimated by looking at the fur from the point 
of the nose to the root of the tail, on the top part of the ani- 
mal, for that part is not provided for elsewhere in the score- 
card. The line between body and side color is easily distin- 
guished when you blow into the fur along the sides of the 



148 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Belgian. Stay above this line all the time when examining 
body color. 

Rufous red is a reddish brown red. This means just what 
it says. The foundation color is red. "Brown" is the first quali- 
fying adjective. Then "brown" is qualified by the word "red- 
dish." It is not yellowish red. Artists use rufous red color and 
it is very nearly the exact shade of tin rust. By tin rust I do 
not mean the rust of tinned iron plates, but the rust of pure 
tin. 

The rufous red is usually found nearest perfection on the 
back of the neck, and gradually grows less distinct as it 
spreads from this point to all parts of the animal. So look 
at the back of the neck, behind the ears, first. 

In estimating body color, pick up the animal as indicated 
in the illustration, right thumb and fingers of right hand 
clasped firmly around jaw, left hand grasping and supporting 
the Belgian at the rump. 

Blow into the fur on the top side, above the line marking 
the top from the sides, and see what you have for under color 
of fur. 

We do not want a slaty under color. 

We want red, but do not expect red clear to the skin. 

We will be some time in reaching a Belgian with hair red 
from end of ticking to skin. 

The ends of the hairs next the skin are now always of a 
dark shade, but, as said before, they should not be slaty . 

Give preference to a flesh color, at the roots of the hairs 
next the skin. 

The wild English hare is white next the skin. 
COLOR OF SIDES. 

Now as to values. For perfection in side color, require 60 
percent of absolute perfection in body color. That is to say, 
do not expect to obtain the same fine color on sides which 
you find on body. 

COLOR OF HINDQUARTERS. 

For perfection in color of hindquarters, require 60 percent 
of absolute perfection in side color. 

Sixty percent of 60 is 36, which represents the value of 
hindquarters. In other words, we should expect the hind- 
quarters to be 36 percent of perfection. 
COLOR OF JAWS. 

In estimating jaw color, first back the Belgian up to you on 
the table. Use the middle fingers to pull the dewlap down out 




Copyriglit, liioi, by tlie|New England BelKianlHare Co. 

SCORING THK JAW. 

For Description See I'age Hs. 



HOW TO SCORE 151 

of the way, then raise the Belgian on his liind feet as illus- 
trated and look at the color. 

The standard says that there shall be as little white under 
jaw as possible. Stand behind the Belgian and look down 
toward the jaw at an angle of 50 degrees with the horizontal, 
as the animal usually sits on the table, head horizontal. If 
you can see white or cream color at that angle, then it is 
called "color extending noticeably." If you see no white or 
cream color at that angle, then it is "color confined." Fifty 
degrees is five degrees more than half of a right angle, so the 
line of vision will almost bisect the right angle between the 
table and the perpendicular through the head of the Belgian. 

An under jaw of rich deep cream color (always found con- 
fined) deserves estimate of perfection. 

Bright cream color confined under jaw deserves one- 
quarter point cut. 

Bright cream color extending out noticeably at sides de- 
serves a cut of one^half point. 

Pure white color confined under jaw deserves a cut of one- 
half point. 

Pure white color extending out noticeably at sides of jaw 
deserves a cut of three-quarters. 

TICKING. 

For ticking, look at the coupling from behind, angle of vis- 
ion perpendicular to arch of back. Do not hold up the animal 
to estimate the ticking. Leave it on the table. 

In estimating ticking, it is the top effect which we want to 
get. Look at the Belgian directly at the centre of hump or 
coupling, the line of vision being perpendicular to the arch 
at that point, as before stated, and the judge standing behind 
the animal. Remember, it is the surface effect which we wish 
to see. 

There are three factors in this effect, namely: quantity, 
quality and distribution. 

In regard to quantity, we wish to see 25 percent of black 
and 75 percent of rich rufous red. 

In regard to quality, we want the blackest black and the 
reddest red possible, in order to furnish the necessary con- 
trast. 

As to distribution, we wish it in waves or tones, so as to 
give a wavy appearance. 

These three things make up, or fail to make up, the effect 
we want. 



152 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

To illustrate: An animal having heavy ticking may be cut 
l^/^ points; or light, 1%. Unless a person vmderstands the 
point of view from which the estimate was made, he will not 
comprehend the decision arrived at. 

The prettiest ticking we see in triangular riffles, with the 
apex of each triangle pointing to the front of the Belgian. 
I found two Belgians in the Boston show which I considered 
perfect in ticking. In each case, the quality, quantity and 
distribution were perfect, and as regards distribution, the 
wavy appearance was such as a person would see from a 
balloon if he looked at a field of wheat on black soil through 
which a reaper had gone mowing irregular swaths in the 
wheat, leaving rows of wheat standing between the swaths. 
SYMMETRY OF BODY. 

Consider the length of the body proper from the neck at 
the point of the shoulder blades to the centre of the back. 

It is the length of the spinal column from the shoulder 
blades to the centre of the back which we wish to get at. 

Put the tip of one finger on the forward point, perpendicu- 
lar to the plane at that point and the tip of another finger 
on the other hand at the centre of the back, the finger being 
held perpendicular to the curve at that point. 

Consider this length, and also consider everything with re- 
gard to size, location and quality, with regard to the weight 
of the animal. 

A heavy Belgian should have a longer back than a light 
one. 

Be sure your front finger position is the point of the shoul- 
der blades, where they join the spine. 

SYMMETRY OF FLANK AND RIB. 

In estimating flank and rib. remember that the body should 
be well tucked up flank and well ribbed-up. 

The body should be well held up in front. 

A slabby-isided and pot-bellied animal hangs down and 
shows the kangaroo shape, which we do not want. 

The requirement is this, that the Belgian be as near as pos- 
sible the same circumference at the stomach as at the heart, 
and this girth should be as small as possible in comparison to 
the weight of the animal. 

A Belgian perfect in this requirement is seldom found. 
SYMMETRY OF BACK. 

The back should be slightly arched. 

Look at the Belgian from the side, eyes on a level with the 




Copyright, 1901, by the New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF BODY. 

For Description See Page 152. 



HOW TO SCORE 155 

top of the back, and consider the curve from the point where 
the concave stops back of the shoulders and becomes convex, 
extending to the root of the tail. 

Push the animal well together so it will show the best pos- 
sible convex curve or arch. 

The principal defect will be a flattening of the curve at 
some point, most often that portion of the curve between the 
point of coupling and a point half way to the tail. 
SYMMETRY OF LOINS. 

The loins should be well-rounded, not choppy. 

Take the part where the tenderloin is on meat. 

Feel of the flesh with the ends of the right fingers. 

Feel from one floating rib to another over the spine, and at 
right angles to it. 

We want it well-rounded, neither like a ridge-pole, nor 
like the sunken loin of a very fat horse. 

SYMMETRY OF HEAD. 

As to the head, the standard says rather lengthy. The fan- 
cier has surpassed that requirement and arrived at a beauti- 
fully long, thin head. 

We want the head to be as long, and as thin through the 
jaw, as possible, always comparative to the weight of the 
animal. 

The width through the lock of the jaws should be the same 
as from one eyebrow to another across the top of the head. 

The unit of measure for the head is the distance between 
the eyebrows. 

Then the depth of the head, from top to bottom, in a line 
passing through the centre of the eye, should be 1%. 

The length of the head, from the tip of the nose to the back 
of the skull, should be 214. 

In estimating these distances for practice, take a pencil and 
measure off the unit. 

Then turn the pencil vertically and measure through the 
eye the depth of the head. 

For the length, place one hand behind the ears, close to 
the skull, and at right angles to a line through the centre of 
head, lengthwise, and measure this distance from the tip of 
the nose, along the side of the head, with the pencil. 

After one has become accustomed to measuring these dis 
tances with the eye and arriving at a correct judgment, it is 
not necessary to use a pencil. 

The width of the head through the lock of the jaw is quick- 



156 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

ly arrived at by backing the Belgian up closely to one's body 
and gathering the flesh close. 

EAR LACING. 

To observe lacing properly, hold the ears by the thick 
edges with one hand, as shown in the illustration, and pull 
them forward, holding the right hand behind the ears so as 
to get a contrasting background on which the black hairs 
will show up distinctly. 

Lacing should begin at point 3 on the ear and go to a point 
slightly past 5, averaging twice the width on the thick edge 
of the ear as on the thin. If it stops at 4, for example, it is 
half good and should be cut accordingly. 

Perfect lacing is scarce. 

Lacing is worth 2 points and the worst cut we can make 
is 1%, for entire absence of lacing. 

If the light hairs from the inner part of the ear extend 
over so as to be distinctly seen from the outside, lacing suf- 
fers in scoring. If the black extends out on the body of the 
ear, ear color is cut. 

EAR SIZE. 

The size of the ear should be five inches. 

In determining size (which is length) of ears, use a wood 
measure (a piece of cigar box is best) cut just five inches 
long, and two inches wide — in fact, so wide that it will not 
slip down into the hollows back or in front of the ear, but 
will rest squarely across the back of the skull. 

Do not use a foot rule or a six inch measure which is apt 
to be only one inch or less in width. 

Catch the ears by their thick edges with the thumb and 
middle linger of the left, hand and pull them up close to the 
measure, which is pushed down closely by the forefinger of 
the right hand. 

Get a good grip and use the free forefinger of the left hand 
to nurse the rule and ears into a parallel position, close to- 
gether at the top. 

Shortness of ear should be cut as follows: 

Shortness of one-quarter of an inch or less, cut one-quarter 
ot a point. 

Shortness of three-eighths of an inch, cut one-half a point. 

Shortness of half an inch, cut three-quarters of a point. 

Shortness of three-quarters of an inch, cut one point. 

The foregoing cuts apply to a mature specimen. Cut one- 
half as severe on an immature specimen. 




CopyriKlit, I'.IOI, liy the New Kiiglaiul lieigian Hare (Jo. 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF FLANK ANI) RIB. 

For Description See Page l.K. 



HOW TO SCORE 159 

Do not cut for an extra long ear. or any other requirement 
in excess of the standard. 

EAR SHAPE. 

The standard says "well set on." This is not definite 
enough. For perfection, imagine a line starting from a point 
on the nose one-quarter of an inch from the nostril and pass- 
ing through another point three-quarters of an inch forward 
from the top of the skull. Position No. 3 on the ear should 
be on the line between these two points. Cut accordingly. 
Two points is the limit. 

EAR COLOR. 

For color of ear, we want as rufous a shade of golden as 
can be, inside and outside of ear. 

There is no need to examine the color on the inside of the 
ear, for a good color on the outside will carry a good color on 
the inside, and a bad color on the outside will be accompanied 
by a bad color on the inside. 

If the outside is rich in color, the inside will be creamy. 

If the outside is smudgy, the inside will be white. 

There should be no ticking on the ears. 

Cut the ear for color if you find ticking there. 

Look out for dim, washed-out, faded color about an inch up 
the ear. 

Perfectly colored ears are not often found. 
EAR QUALITY. 

For quality of ear, we want the finest we can get compara- 
tive to the weight of the animal. What we find perfect in 
quality of ear of an eight-pound Belgian would not be perfect 
on a four-pound Belgian. That is to say, the heavier and 
coarser the animal as a whole, the heavier and coarser will 
be the ears. 

In estimating the quality of the ears, grasp them four thick- 
nesses at a time, as they set naturally, and you will have a 
better substance for estimating than if you feel of the thick- 
ness of each ear through one fold of flesh. 
EYE SIZE. 

As large as possible, compared to the weight of the animal. 
EYE SHAPE. 

In shape, they should be round and bold. 

The eyeball always is round, but when the lid encroaches, 
as it does sometimes, most often at the top, but once in a 
while at the bottom, a flat appearance is produced. 

Punish the animal if it does not show the eye round. 



160 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Some animals are pop-eyed, or a little in excess of the aver- 
age boldness, but do not punish for that, for it is a require- 
ment in excess of what the standard calls for. Some eyes are 
flat and appear to be in retreat, giving the Belgian a careless,, 
slouchy appearance, and such eyes should be cut. 
EYE COLOR. 

Tke eye should be in color hazel, which is very close tO' 
chestnut. 

The eye which is off in color may be grayish, or stone-col- 
ored. 

One kind of eye often met with is of gray, greenish color.. 
Watch out also for a reddish yellow eye. 
EYE QUALITY. 

The eye should be bright and healthy. Some Belgians have 
a dim eye. Always wake the animal up by jogging it under 
the chin or boxing it lightly on the side of the head, so it will 
show its eyes to best advantage, not only in quality, but size 
and shape. 

LEGS AND FEET— FRONT— SIZE 

In scoring the front feet, grasp the Belgian by the slack of 
the neck, holding down the ears, as this subjugates the ani- 
mal, and pull the Belgian into a three-quarters upright posi- 
tion, with its hind feet remaining on the table. 

Put the middle finger of the left hand under the foot, the 
thumb behind the "elbow" joint, and with the first finger at 
the other end of the limb measure the length (which is size) 
of the limb. 

It is not practical to measure this length with a rule. 

Simply estimate the length, removing the left hand after 
you have oalipered it with your finger and thumb, and make 
up your judgment what this length ought to be, in comparison 
with the weight of the animal. 

A heavy animal should have a longer limb than a light one. 

It is length of bone from joint to joint which we wish to es- 
timate. 

LEGS AND FEET— FRONT— SHAPE. 

Keep your right hand in the same grasp, over the ears and 
neck of the Belgian. 

Test the front joint with the fingers of the left hand to de- 
termine, first, whether the limb "gives down," and second, 
how much, if any, it "gives down." 

We want a joint that will show stiff when the Belgian is up 
on its front toes. 




Copyright, 1901, l)y the New EiiglaiulilJelgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF BACK. 

For Daseription See Page 152. 



HOW TO SCORE 163 

We want a foot which is in line with the bone. 

LEGS AND FEET— FRONT— COLOR. 

Color of front feet and legs should be a rich rufous red, free 
from ticking. 

Remember that white patches or white bars on legs, and 
white toe or toes, disqualify. 

The bars of white, when they are found, run from side to 
side of the foot and leg, over the curve, and not in stripes 
from toe to joint. 

LEGS AND FEET— FRONT— QUALITY. 

As fine in bone, not body, as possible. 

Bear in mind the weight of the animal. A heavy Belgian 
has coarser front feet than a light one. 

Grasp both front legs in left hand when feeling and esti- 
mating for quality. 

LEGS AND FEET— HIND— COLOR. 

To look at the color of the hind feet, which is the only re- 
quirement for that section of the Belgian, grasp the Belgian 
with the right hand, as in the case of the front feet, then 
place the left hand under the rump, with the left thumb at 
the hip joint, and throw the leg out into full view, looking 
first at one foot, then at the other. 

The hind feet, as far as the hock joint, should be, accord- 
ing to the standard, "as well-colored as possible." This is 
vague; they should have as much of the rich rufous red as 
possible. 

The encroachments upon the rich rufous red on hind feet, 
which you may expect to find, are white on top of feet and 
blue or smudge on sides of hind feet. 

Color of hind feet is worth two points. 

Hind feet half rufous red and half white, that is to say, half 
bad, should be cut one point. 

Hind feet wholly white should be cut one and three-fourths. 

Hind feet half white, and whole of remaining half smudgy, 
should be cut one and three-quarters. 

Hind feet half white, and half of other half rufous red, 
should be cut one and one-half. 

Hind feet three-quarters rufous red, remaining quarter 
smudgy, should be cut one-half. 

Hind feet three-quarters rufous red, remaining quarter 
creamy, should be cut one-quarter. 

In estimating color of hind feet, never look at the under 
parts of the feet, on which the animal sits. Always look at 



164 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

the top and sides only, holding the Belgian in the position in- 
dicated in illustration. 

SIZE OF SPECIMEN. 

The size of a Belgian should be just eight pounds, in a 
specimen that is mature, or 10 months or more old. 

Unless a Belgian is up to weight, or over it, the best time 
to score it is before it is 10 months old, for until then it will 
not be cut for lack of weight. 

Mature specimens are cut at the rate of two points per 
pound. 

A full ounce or more lacking should be considered two 
ounces and the cut should be one-quarter. If the deficiency is 
less than an ounce, no cut. 

Deficiency of three ounces or more should be cut one-half 
a point. 

Deficiency of five ounces or more should be cut three-quar- 
ters of a point. 

Deficiency of seven ounces or more should be cut one point. 
CONDITION— FLESH— QUALITY. 

The Belgian should not be fat, but flesh firm like that of a 
race-horse. 

If the specimen is fat. cut it one-quarter. 

If it is soft, cut it a quarter. 

If it is fat and soft, cut it one-half. 

If very fat and very soft, cut it three-quarters. 
CONDITION— FUR— QUALITY. 

As to quality of fur, two things are to be taken into con- 
sideration, one naturaL the other accidental. 

A natural variation of fur is caused by moulting. 

An accidental variation may be caused by fur torn out in a 
fight, or by a doe for her nest, or by paint or clinging dirt. 

Consider whether the fur is loose, or whether it is daubed, 
or bitten out. 

Cut for an accidental as much as for a natural defect. 
NECK— SHAPE. 

Dewlap is worth five points, but the most a dewlap can be 
cut is 4% points. 

There is always considerable amusement in my classes 
when first measuring dewlap. Amateurs do not realize, until 
they try, how much loose skin can be pulled out from the 
neck of the average Belgian, which may show little or no 
dewlap. Hold the Belgian as shown in the illustration. Push 
out the dewlap with the left fingers and pull with the right 




Copyright, 1801, by the New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SYMMETRY OF LOINS. 

For Description See Page 155. 



HOW TO SCORE 167 

fingers, proceeding slowly and thoroughly until you have got 
all the loose flesh pinched in sight by the right fingers. There 
is a little knack in getting hold of all the loose skin, and not 
letting it get away from you. 

I have seen Belgians with such large dewlaps that the ani- 
mals could not eat grain off the floor. As the neck is worth 
five points such a dewlap would have a four and three-fourths 
cut. 

A Belgian with a perfect neck is very scarce. Loose flesh 
can be pulled out from the neck of all but the very raciest 
and firmest-fleshed. The average cuts are from one-quarter 
to two points, and use your judgment in determining how 
great a cut you shall make, bearing in mind always the 
weight of the animal. A dewlap of a given size would be cut 
harder on a small, racy animal than on a heavy, coarse ani- 
mal. 

IN CONCLUSION. 

Timid Belgians usually lose on carriage of ear or stiffness 
of front limb. They won't "trim up" as they should. A 
Belgian should be handled and "trimmed up" constantly, so 
it will assume its most creditable attitude when being scored. 
Belgians nicely trained sit up in a firm, graceful poise when 
under inspection by the judge. Accustom your animals to 
handling so they will not be timid. 

Look at the table of usual cuts (see illustration) and you 
will get an idea of the application of the score card which will 
flrmly fix the points in your mind after you have mastered 
the foregoing explanations. 

In starting in with a Belgian, first look for disqualifica- 
tions, and if you find any, put the specimen aside and pass 
on to another. 

At the top of the card have j^our clerk write in the name 
of the owner and age of specimen. Look for the ear notch or 
other marking and have that recorded in the blank provided 
for that purpose. Get the weight of the animal down. If it 
is an immature specimen, you do not need to know the 
weight. 

Determine the sex of the animal next, and by that time you 
ought to know whether it is free from disease. I have seen 
specimens either blind, or suffering from ear canker ,or vent 
disease, pass a whole company of judges. It is quite common, 
also, for bucks to be scored as does, and vice versa. Show 
catalogues are usually decidedly off in this respect. Always 



168 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

get the foregoing primary points settled before you begin 
scoring. 

The judge ought to have an assistant, even in pi'ivate 
scoring, and if h.e is judging a show, he needs two clerks, one 
to check the other. The clerk reads, and the judge names 
the cut, and the clerk records it, and so on down the score 
card until the end is reached. 

Suppose your clerk reads out, "Stray hairs," and that on 
examination you find seven stray hairs and wish to cut one- 
quarter of a point. Do not say to your clerk. "One-quarter." 
Instead, say. "Quarter." Then he will not (as he certainly 
will if the scoring is done rapidly) understand you some- 
times to mean one and a quarter. For the same reason, al- 
ways say "half" and not "one-half," when you cut half a point 
and wish it so recorded. 

Look out for your weigiiing committee and be sure that 
careful, reliable, precise men do the work. If the weighing is 
done by irresponsible persons, some exhibitor is going to 
suffer unjustly. 

Have your place of scoring where you can work rapidly 
and without the interference of interested parties. Set 
off a place where the light is best adapted and do not have a 
crowd of exhibitors at your elbows to take down your judg- 
mients and hinder you in your work. A judge should be left 
alone with his clerks in order that he may work rapidly and 
with the proper concentration which the nicety of the task 
demands. 

All agree that the first requisite of a judge is to be perfectly 
conversant with the requirements of his subject, as set forth 
by its respective standard. Next is a natural keen sense of 
the beautiful inherent in the judge, a great development of the 
phrenological faculties of weights and measures, thus insur- 
ing very accurate estimates, and later comes the actual prac- 
tice that enables a judge abnormally to develop those faculties 
and to become accustomed to the embarrassing incidents that 
are from time to time brought into the work, sometimes ma- 
liciously, but more often playfully, by owners interested in 
the matter financially or for sport. All the above mentioned 
things play a very important part in the matter of judge, but 
not as imi)ortant a part, to my mind, as the method pursued in 
arriving at and making the awards. A standard gives an out- 
line of the list of specific requirements of a specimen and 




Coiiyi-iglit. liKjl, l)y tlie New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SY313IETRY OF HKAD. 

For Description See Page lo5. 



HOW TO SCORE 171 

places a valuation, in points, on each requirement, thus al- 
loting to some sections more points, giving them more im- 
portance and a consequent greater valuation. The 29 require- 
ments each having its own valuation, one can readily see the 
impossibility of seeing, in one instant, all the various re- 
quirements of even one animal. Add to this the further com- 
plication of having a class of many animals placed before you 
at once to judge, and further remember that one will be de- 
fective in color and good in shape, another defective in both 
shape and color, to about the same extent; still another good 
in both shape and color, and yet another defective in shape 
and color, the complicated question begins to arise how defect- 
ive (considered from all sources) is specimen No. 1, No. 2 and 
so on down the line, and how shall we arrive at their compara- 
tive values after all defects have been considered? 

Obviously, if we have not considered every requirement 
(since every requirement has its alloted valuation in points), 
we have not entirely judged the animal. 

In viewing the situation from a critical standpoint, I should 
say that never has there been invented a mechanical instru- 
ment, an implement of warfare or a legal document more 
thoroughly effectual, more applicable to its purpose, or more 
entirely indispensable than is the score card to the correct 
judging of Belgian hares. 

The card is, to the judge, merely a recording sheet on which 
to jot down his estimate on each and every specific require- 
ment of the animal in hand. 

No one requirement encroaches on another, for they are 
taken one at a time, and no heed given to anything else at 
that time. A careful estimate is made on it, calculating whol' 
ly from its valuation as a basis of operation, and the result of 
the estimate jotted down on the record sheet (score card). 
"When the 29 requirements have been estimated the judge's 
opinion is recorded on the whole animal, and positively noth- 
ing has been over-looked. 

To the exhibitor the score card serves to show the animal 
through the judge's glasses, and if it lost because the judge 
considered it insufficient in shape of head or in condition at the 
time the exhibitor knows it, and also knows the judge's high 
appreciation of the animal's better qualities and consequently 
understands thoroughly its value as a breeder. 

Out of the show room the score card is equally indispensa- 



172 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Me. A customer in a distant locality wishes a specimen at- 
taining a certain percentage of perfection, lie asks the owner 
as to its qualifications. Without the score card he cannot 
give the opinion of a competent, disinterested person relative 
to the animal in question. 

Then, again, suppose the owner of the animal is a compe- 
tent judge and his own opinion is wanted hy the customer. A 
16-page letter will not half as accurately serve in giving that 
description as will one little score card, intelligently filled out 
hy the same person. 

Judging, with us. depends for its value upon the ability of 
the judge to apply the standard of excellence according to a 
mathematical ratio. Judging in England, depends simply 
upon the reputation and ability of the judge, who announces 
his decisions without reference to the standard of excellence, 
although that standard has been adopted to serve as a univer- 
sal test, both in England and this country. Make no mistake 
about this. The standard is the same in both countries. By 
the score card system the judge cannot depart from the stand- 
ard of excellence without subjecting himself to the criticism 
of those interested, and the system is so simple, the standard 
of excellence being so clearly defined, that one need not be a 
practical judge in order to be an intelligent critic and able to 
discover a glaring error on the part of the officiating judge. 

In the comparison system (valuable as it once was before 
ciAalization furnished us something better) seven animals 
were before the judge at once and 29 requirements — ^that of 
one animal — multiplied by seven, gives us the neat sum of 203 
separate and distinct things to see at one instant, covering a 
total valuation of 700 points laid down in the standard, and 
the proportionate share of qualification possessed by each of 
those respective 203 requirements. I should say that it would 
take more than an "open mind" to grasp the situation, much 
less to handle it without making innumerable blunders, which, 
by the way, if made by the comparison system (where the 
judge is not required to show reasons for his decision), would 
never be discovered. 

As has been suggested, a score card judge is put to test in- 
numerable times and must necessarilv know what he is doing 
and have a reason for all that he does. 

The wav to test a judge is to give him the same Belgian two 
or three hours or days apart, after he has scored other Bel- 



^*»v A-**^ 






Copyright, I'Jui, Ij.\ ihe ^('u J^UHlainl Jlelgiiin llnie Od 



SCORING EAR LACING. 

For Description See Page 156. 



HOW TO SCORE 175 

gians. If he arrives at the same decisions, you will know he 
is competent. If he does not. you will know that he has been 
taught by a poor teacher, or is "bluffing." It is impossible for 
a judge, no matter how good his memory, to carry in his head 
the valuation he puts on each of the 29 requirements of half 
a dozen Belgians. I have known so-called "judges," who have 
picked up the method of the score card without understand- 
ing its meaning, or vice versa, to mark certain requirements 
exactly the same on all Belgians, trusting finally to either 
hind feet or ear lacing, or both, to throw the animal they were 
scoring either forward or back of 92 points. Belgians scored 
by such judges are the kind you see offered in the daily news- 
papers, "scoring 95 for $8 each." 

It is quite common for F;harpers to have a competent judge 
score a good animal, then keep the animal and send the score 
card with a cheap Belgian to the customer. There is no way 
to prevent such fraud, except to trade with a reliable dealer. 
It can be detected, of course, if the customer knows what a 
good hare is but it is hard to prove a case at law, and the 
sharper has the money. I have known of $10 hares being sold 
for .$250 by the substitution of score cards, and I have known 
cases where my own score card, showing a low number, has 
been torn up or secreted, and the Belgian sold at a fancy 
price on the strength of a high score card made by a judge 
clear across the continent of notorious incompetency. 

We have thought of many ways to fit a score card to a Bel- 
gian, but all are impracticable, if a sharper is bent on trickery. 
If you mark a Belgian in a certain way, and mark the score 
card in the same way, the sharper will take an unmarked hare 
and mark it to fit the score card. The buyer of hares will 
early in his experience come upon score cards with great seals 
in the corner, to give an appearance of legality. Such seals 
mean nothing to the sharper. They are, in fact, a real help 
to him, impressing youthful minds strongly. Usually the 
gaudier the pedigree blank and the bigger the seal on the 
score card, the poorer the Belgian. The honor of the judge 
and dealer is the only safeguard. In every new district where 
the Belgian is making its way. you will find beginners carry- 
ing around score cards and pedigrees in their pockets, and 
offering to sell or buy them, while the Belgians which they fit 
or do not fit may be pining away in some corner, entirely out 
of the discussion. Such people usually lose from $10 to $500 



176 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

and then drop out of the business. They have a poor knowl- 
edge of human nature and will not succeed in business of 
any kind. 




(;npyright, 1901, by the New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SIZE (LENGTH) OF EAR. 

For Description See Page 15G 



LESSON EIGHTEEN. 

USEFUL HINTS. 

IT is well to remember: That a Belgian should not 
be lifted by the ears. 

That their amorous nature is perhaps their strongest 
characteristic. 

That males are, as a rule, more numerous than females. 

That they fight with their feet, and make the fur fly. 

That the expression "As mad as a March hare" was coined 
by an observer, who watched them in March, their best mat- 
ing time, when they are playful and full of antics. 

That a cat deprived of her kittens will suckle a young rab- 
bit. 

That a kitten may be taken from its mother and given to a 
nursing doe. Such kittens, as they grow up, become accus- 
tomed to the Belgians and the hutches, live contentedly with 
them and guard against mice. 

That they are susceptible to atmospheric changes, being 
restless and lively before a change of weather. 

That they fraternize with dogs to which they are accus- 
tomed, but shrink from and are afraid of strange dogs. 

That they may be trained to sit up at command and hold a 
small stick in the mouth, beat a tambourine, and perform 
other simple tricks. 

That Cowper's hares, as he wrote about them, are famous 
in literature. 

That the hare is an object of superstition on the Isle of Man. 
It is said there to be the favorite form of a witch. The most 
superstitious Manx people will not eat them, it is said. 

That they are excellent swimmers when forced into the 
water, either fresh or salt, but prefer to avoid wetting their 
fur. 



180 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

That they have no molars, or grinding teeth, but only cut- 
ting and gnawing teeth. 

That when fresh killed, their flesh will be stiff, white and 
dry. When stale, it will be limp, and will have a bluish tinge. 

That they may be made thin by a diet of acorns, which are 
rich in potash, lime and phosphoric acid, and are used as an 
astringent in cases of diarrhoea. 

That white spots on the liver signify a tuberculous condition. 

That they will defend their young fiercely, but are not fierce 
ordinarily, and do not retaliate out of vindictiveness, but only 
to escape. 

That constant rearing in hutches has caused their meat 
to lose entirely the rank, savage flavor characteristic of wild 
rabbits. 

That their skins make excellent glue. 

That their dung is good for flowers, particularly vines and 
fibrous-rooted greenhouse plants. 

That it takes forty or fifty hares to eat as much as one cow. 

That they are polygamous, one buck being able and willing 
to attend to thirty does. 

That a buck becomes impotent, as a rule, when five or six 
years old. 

That a doe becomes impotent, as a rule, when five years old. 

That the buck will kill the doe's young when they are blind 
and helpless, if allowed access to her hutch. 

That if the doe is exhausted at the time of littering, and 
feels that she can suckle successfully only a limited number, 
she will kill the remainder. Some breeders claim she kills 
them to allay her thirst. Water should be plentiful at such a 
time. 

That a doe breeding seven times a year and having eight 
young at each littering will find herself at the end of four years 
surrounded by 1,274,840, provided her offspring breed with the 
same frequency. 

That the last remark shows how ridiculous is the contrast 
between figures and facts. 

That the duration of their natural life is said to be from six 
to nine years. 

That variety of food is essential to the production of the 
finest specimens. 

That blood will tell, and that it is impossible to get points 
which are lacking in both buck and doe. 

That starvation is something to look out for. 




Copyright, 1901, by the New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SHAPE OF EAR. 

For Description See Page 159. 



USEFUL HINTS 18S 

That their voice is seldom heard, but when it is, it is usually 
a weak, plaintive cry. When irritated, the cry becomes pierc- 
ing. 

That in Belgium they are fattened for the market by being 
confined all their days on a shelf a few feet from the ground, 
so narrow that they cannot even turn around. Lacking any 
exercise, and being fed on meat-producing food, they attain 
large size. 

That an old one is told by the general solidity and thinness 
of skeleton, especially at the joints, by a fat belly and extra 
length and extra thickness of nails. Sometimes the nails are 
cut by dealers to deceive the purchaser in the matter of age. 

That Belgian hares are better than Flemish Giants because 
they breed younger, they breed oftener, they have more at a 
litter, they raise more of the young, they mature earlier, they 
have finer bones, they produce the whiter meat, they drsss 
away the least, they produce the finer fur, they are more active 
and more attractive pets, they produce more meat from a ton 
of food, and it is healthy meat. 

That the flesh of a Belgian, not too fat, is not only all white, 
like that of a young turkey, but it much resembles it in flavor, 
although usually more tender and toothsome. The flesh of an 
older and fatter Belgian, roasted, is quite as white as that of 
a younger one, but, roasted, especially, tastes much like roast 
duck. 

That Belgians are the most prolific breeders of any animal 
known, and therefore, the most profitable for those who raise 
them. At the end of a year one buck and two does should 
produce ready for marketing, or, at least, of marketable age, 
sufficient hares to weigh 800 pounds. 

That Belgians in the same pen sometimes fight viciously, 
and have been known to kill each other. Does fight as fierce- 
ly as the bucks sometimes. 

That hay should be sprinkled 10 or 12 hours before being 
fed. 

That you should mate not to magnify, but contrast, defects. 

That six weeks is the age to wean. 

That you should provide means for the doe to get out of the 
reach of the nursing litter. 

That you may mate at all times of the year. 

That you should build demand and supply together, when 
solving the meat problem in your city or town. 



184 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

That the show room should be cool and well ventilated, but 
not draughty, and that the scoring should be done in a slightly 
subdued light. 

That in Germany and France, roasting pans made just to 
fit the shape of the dressed Belgian (see illustration on pre- 
ceding page) are used extensively. 

That every exhibition should be advertised, especially the 
name of the judge, so that breeders will have confidence that 
no favors are going to be arranged at the last moment. 

Thajt the price of the meat should top poultry prices. 

That unnatural tusks which Belgians sometimes develop 
should be pulled. I have seen these tusks grow to such an ab- 
normal length that the animal could not use its jaws, and 
would starve to death. 

That Belgians are the most practical meat producing ani- 
mal. They need small space, have no vermin, eat at night if 
necessary, do not gormandize, are the most cleanly animal liv- 
ing regarding what they eat, can be raised in the city as well 
as country, produce the most meat per pound of feed of any 
animal. 




Copyriglit, 19ol, by the New Kuglaiid Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING SIZK OF FRONT FKKT. 

For Description See Page Ico. 



LESSON NINETFEN. 
HOW TO DEVELOP A BUSINESS. 

THE RABBIT fancier should watch the state of the market 
closely, and make up his mind to use his own judgment 
and not take sayso of others. He should welcome an 
exhibition, for there, if the judges are competent and 
honest, as they usually are, for no nonsense in judging is tol- 
erated, and desirable animals will be indicated by the dipo- 
sition of prizes. 

The fancier then should make up his mind to get service 
from the prize bucks, or buy the offspring. 

A beginner can make no better start than by buying ani- 
mals that have taken prizes, or their offspring. 

Most of the imported animals were bought in England, not 
from the original breeders, but from middlemen, or jobbers. 
The beginner should buy in the best place, where he can get 
the most for his money. Many who advertise as breeders and 
advise beginners to buy only from breeders fill up their owu 
hutches from time to time by purchases outside, and retail the 
animals after having had them in their hutches but a short 
time. Good animals are not so plentiful as one would be led tO' 
think if he believed the advertisements of breeders. Good 
stock is advancing, and is sure to be appreciated at high fig- 
ures when the exhibitions have weeded out "scrubs" for which 
absurd claims now are made. 

Starting with a trio of hares is probably the best and quick- 
est way to get returns without a long wait. A trio usually 
is made up of two does and a buck, and before shipping, the 
seller usually breeds the does to different bucks that are not 
related, so in a month the purchaser will have two litters, and 
with his own buck to draw on for service when needed, he is 
in a position to make quick sales. 



188 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

A few rules are to be carefully followed in shipping Bel- 
gian hares, or trouble will result. 

It is well to remember at the start that the animals 
are likely to pass through the hands of expressmen 
others who know little or nothing about them. So on the 
shipping tag, or on another tag nearby, in plain sight, write 
or print directions for feeding and watering. 

Of course it is not necessary to use a large hutch in ship- 
ping, nor is it desirable. Use, for single hares, a small box 
or crate which may be procured from any merchant. If it is 
a right-angled box, cover the top with wire netting, and bore 
holes in the top and sides so that when the box is piled with 
other packages in an express car, the animal will not be suffo- 
cated. 

When several hares are shipped together, use one long, nar- 
row box or crate with partitions so as to keep each hare to 
itself. 

The box or crate for use in summer should be lighter and 
more open than that for winter shipment. 

Make the crate as light as possible, bearing in mind that it 
must be strong enough not to "buckle" when boxes and crates 
are piled on top of it. 

On the wire front, at the bottom, easily accessible to the 
hare on the inside, should be securely fastened two tin cups, 
one for water, the other for oats. Oats are all the food neces- 
stary for a hare in shipment, if there is plenty of good hay for 
bedding. One of the tin cups is for oats, the other for water. 
A bag of oats should be shipped with each crate, and the ex- 
pressman directed to feed and water so that the cups will 
have something in them all the time. 

For a tin cup, most shippers use the ordinary, cheap hand 
drinking cup, cutting the handle with a pair of stout shears 
and bending the pieces flat and tacking them to the woodwork 
of the crate, thus making sure that the cups will be firmly 
fixed, and always in place. 

If a box or crate with beveled top edges is used, the ex- 
pressman cannot surround it with other boxes so as to shut 
off light and air. 

The card of instructions to the expressman should caution 
him against subjecting the animals to sudden extremes of 
heat and cold. 

In cold or cool weather, alwavs use a box or orate entirely 
enclosed, save for breathing spaces at top. It is not necessary 




Copyriglit, 1901, by the New England Belgian HarelCo. 

SCORING SHAPE OF FRONT FEET. 

For Description See Page 160 



DEVELOPING A BUSINESS 191 

to make provision for watering when shipping a three or four 
days' journey. Put in three or four carrots, as well as grain 
and hay, and the moisture in the carrots will satisfy the Bel- 
gian's thirst. 

It is very important that the shipping crate not have a 
water tight floor. There should be cracks through which the 
urine can drain. 

Make the crate as small as you can in order to get the low- 
est express rate, but always give the Belgian room enough to 
stretch and move. 

The beginner making shipments will find a shipping guide 
essential. He should ship by that company which will carry 
the box or crate clear through to destination. If one company 
has to deliver to another, then the rate will be twice what it 
would be if entire carriage was made by one company. 

Advertising is not always essential to the develop- 
ment of a business, but it is a great help and in some 
cases it is absolutely necessary. A good business is 
sometimes built up, however, by breeders who secure 
such good specimens that their fame is spread by word of 
mouth. 

The advertisement reaches a great many at the same time, 
and if the advertiser's story is intelligently and sensibly told, 
and he has something which is wanted, he is bound to interest 
people and begin to make sales. 

It should be possible for the beginner to write an interesting, 
readable letter about what he has for sale, and encourage cor- 
respondence. 

If the beginner is first in his neighborhood, he will be able 
to make a good many sales, and perhaps reap a great harvest, 
before competition sets in. When competition comes, he 
must remember that his stock and prices are to be judged by 
comparison, and he will be obliged to develop his business 
acumen. 

The best way to get a reputation for handling good stock is 
to send it to an exhibition and there "beat the field." Prefer- 
ment by honest and reliable judges is a great thing for a 
breeder. He will find the buying public turning to him with a 
rush to get stock able to take prizes, and therefore of un-' 
questioned grade. 

Do not neglect the bookkeeping nart of your business. 

Records of breeding should be kept according to the calen- 
dar, so you will know just how your does are coming on. If 



192 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

your records are kept as they ought to be, you will not be sur- 
prised by unexpected litters. 

Blanks for recording pedigrees may be purchased of printers 
and filled in with the name of rabbitry. 

Keep adding to your stock from time to time new blood, 
either by the purchase of young bucks, or by service from a 
famous stud. Usually the money spent for service may be 
regarded as a wise investment. A judicious amount of in- 
breeding is not harmful, when the stock is worth it, but it is 
best to go outside for characteristics which your stock lack,, 
and which you have tried to get without result. 

Your records ought to show how often you have to buy 
feed, and what you pay for it, and how long it lasts, so you 
can form an intelligent idea of the amount of profit you are 
making. You will be able to save a great deal by a wise 
choice of food. Learn to utilize what grows wild around you, in 
whatever part of the country you may be. 

When you begin to invite buyers to inspect your stock, you 
will find money laid out on a handsome rabbitry to be a good 
investment. Try and have the surroundings as clean and at- 
tractive as possible, for such matters will appeal to a stranger 
strongly. Unless you can make a good profit yourself, in rais- 
ing Belgians, and show signs of having made money, it will 
not be convincing for you to advise others to buy of you in 
order to make money. 

Some parties write a woeful tale to me about a breeder 
shipping them bred hares that failed to have young, and ask 
my advice in the matter. Let us analyze the matter and re- 
duce it to where we can look at it squarely. A writes to B 
and prices a doe, to be bred to B's best buck. B sets about 
breeding, but fails for a few days, then gets a roasting for 
delaying the doe that was ordered, through no fault of his. 
Again, C buys one of D on the same terms. D mates the doe 
and ships her out and she fails to kindle, and D gets a "roast- 
ing." To begin with, let us look at B's and D's motives. Is 
there any reason in the world why the seller should wish the 
does not to kindle or not to breed? Is there not every reason 
why they should very rnuch like the does to kindle promptly 
and raise successful litters and make a happy, well-pleased 
customer for him? Again, if he has entirely fulfilled his part 
of the transaction and Providence has not done the rest by 
"smiling" on the purchaser, should the seller of the stock get 
that unreasonable "roasting"? Then the buyer sullenly says: 




Copyright, 1901, by the New Knglaiid lielgiaii Hare Co. 

SCORING COLOR OF HIND FEKT. 

For Description See Page 1C3. 



DEVELOPING A BUSINESS 195 

"What is the matter with the does?" He can't tell, and neither 
can I, unless they have some French blood in them; but is 
that any excuse for him being unreasonable about it? I dont 
think so. I am willing to believe that every living person is hon- 
est when there is every reason for them to be so, and positive 
reasons why they should not be dishonest, as in this case. Now, 
let me go a step further and ask the buyer whether or not he 
assesses himself with a fine of $10 each time that he breeds 
a doe for himself and she fails to kindle, or does he show the 
good sense to "try, try again," until he gets a litter? 

During my stay in Boston in January, 1901, a Belgian which 
had won first prize in a Los Angeles, Cal., show, was sold in 
Boston for $150 on the strength of its Los Angeles winning. 
The purchaser, on receiving the animal, made the score 89. 
One of my Boston pupils made the score 89. Being appealed 
to by the purchaser, I scored the animal and arrived at 89^. 
These figures are given from memory and may be off a quar- 
ter of a point from the facts. The point which I wish to make 
clear is, that the value of a Belgian for breeding purposes, or 
for any purpose, dropped from $150 to $10, and the salesman, 
who apeared willing to do the right thing, made his customer 
a rebate, or satisfied him with other stock. The front and 
hind feet of the animal were well-colored, particularly the 
hind feet, but the head was off decidedly in shape, and there 
were other defects, notably a profusion of stray hairs, of 
which I counted nearly a hundred in half the body, and 
without counting further estimated that there were fully 200. 
The California judge had called the animal perfect in this re- 
quirement, I was told. The breeder or dealer must be skilled, 
as well as honest, otherwise he is likely to do sombody an in- 
justice in making sales. 

I notice a great deal of stock which is being sent through 
Denver from the smaller cities of the country, which stops 
here to be scored which is very often represented to be very 
high scoring stock, but disappoints the purchaser very much. 
I would advise the breeder to be very particular in describing 
stock that he wishes to send out and to never over-estimate 
or under-estimate its value. Practically the people taken 
throughout the LTnited States understand pretty well what is 
required to make a high scoring animal under the American 
standard of excellence for Belgian hares. Advertise liberally, 
advertise just what you have for sale, send out just what you 



196 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

advertise and your efforts will be rewarded in any line of the 
industry. . 

Of course persons with inferior stock have no reason to ex- 
hibit. A breeder who has really first-class stock and shows 
extensively during- the winter, will be the one who will reap 
a rich harvest during the following year. Culling your stock 
for exhibition purposes for the coming season's shows, de- 
mands your strict attention to satisfy those calling for the 
very best if you cater to that line of trade. Make your se- 
lections in the most intelligent manner possible. Cull your 
stock closely. Cull it early and then give the best animals 
the very best of care. Furnish them individual hutches be- 
fore they get old enough to do much fighting. Otherwise they 
will be badly sprinkled with stray hairs, and practically worth- 
less for exhibition purposes. Feed on the choicest of grain 
and the very best hay. Do not feed too heavy. Do not keep 
in the direct rays of the sun, while on the other hand, do not 
exclude them too closely from the light. Give the animal 
what light is necessary for his health and no more. In pre- 
paring for the show do not make the mistake that is so often 
done, by neglecting to get the exhibition hutch ready until 
you are ready to exhibit so that you will have to place your 
stock in hutches newly painted. Have your animals in the 
best of condition possible. 

In some states where I go (notably Massachusetts) it is in- 
timated that the game officers will endeavor to apply the game 
laws to the breeders and sellers of Belgian hares, because 
the laws say that "hares" among other kinds of game named, 
shall not be offered for sale in the close season, which begins 
about the first of March and continues on for six months. I 
have advised the fanciers of Belgian hares in Massachusetts 
to take united action in going to the legislature and asking 
to have the law amended so as to read "hares, except Belgian 
hares," merely for the purpose of avoiding trouble and litiga- 
tion. Failing to obtain the amendment, which in my judg- 
ment is not needed except as a precautionary measure, I have 
advised them to make a test case at the first opportunity, and 
go into court with the defence that Belgian hares are not game 
within the meaning of the law, for they are not. 

Belgian hares are domestic animals strictly, as much so as 
sheep or chickens. They do not survive in a wild state, and 
the first arrest made for offering them for sale in the close 



DEVELOPING A BUSINESS 197 

season will result In a judicial interpretation of the law to the 
effect that they are domestic animals and cannot be clased as 
game. The law as it stands, however, is likely to deter some 
prospective breeders from starting rabbitries. 

In Colorado the legislature has passed a bill against indis- 
criminate breeding of Belgians, under the impression that 
they might become a pest, while in one or two other states 
bills to encourage the increase of the Belgians for the bene- 
fit of hunters has been proposed, and a resolution was intro- 
duced in the Maine legislature for an inquiry into the subject 
to see if there is any danger of the hares becoming a nuisance 
and to see, also, if there is any necessity for passing a law 
regulating the trade in them. 

The best legislation with reference to Belgian hares is no 
legislation at all. They don't require legislation any more 
than a sheep or a hen. The Belgian hare never can be any- 
thing but a domestic animal. They do not survive in a wild 
state, for they are not combative, and fall a prey alike to dogs, 
cats, minks, weasles, foxes, skunks, hawks and owls. It is 
frequently stated by people who do not know what they are 
talking about that Belgian hares breed so fast that they would 
speedily become a pest, but there is not the slightest danger of 
that. The animals which caused all the damage in Australia 
were English hares, an entirely different sort of animal, vora- 
cious, pugnacious and destructive. Nature put no animal ene- 
mies of the rabbit in Australia and all the trouble there may 
be laid at the door of those persons who took the English 
hares there. The English hare and wild rabbits everywhere 
are no more like Belgian hares in their habits and methods 
than a hedgehog is like a house cat. Belgian hares turned 
loose to shift for themselves speedily disapear, for every ani- 
mal preys on them, and they have no defence against their 
enemies. 



LESSON TWENTY. 
FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY. 

AMERICA is a continent of vast natural resources, and the 
home of progressive, practical-minded people, who know no 
such word as failure, but who set about the production of 
whatever is wanted, with the knowledge that a short time is 
sufficient to see the fruits of their labor ready for use. 

It is a fact that once it was the custom in this country, 
when in need of meat for food, to go into the forest or onto 
the plains, and by means of the rifle and skill of the hunter, 
secure the necessary amount for the purpose or occasion. 
Such, although the height of the sportsman's ambition, could 
not fill every requirement of the person engaged in a busy 
domestic life, from the fact that such supply was of irregular 
quantity and of variable quality, with the result that game 
later drifted into its proper destination, that of furnishing 
delight, pastime and recreation for the sportsman, and the 
supply of meat for domestic purposes was expected to be the 
product of domestic animals and fowls. 

Very naturally the larger animals were first in favor, and 
later it came to be understood that they were not preferable, 
from the fact that their use must be confined to the cities 
or to the cool season of the year, in order to avoid loss on 
account of an over-supply. 

Swine rapidly grew in favor on account of the more prac- 
tical size, and well can we yet remember when there was 
considerable rivalry displayed in an attempt to produce the 
largest specimens of this animal, which, however, later died 
out, and the production of the medium-sized, quick-maturing 
hog was the crowning feature of the porker's ambition. 

A demand for a smaller and cheaper animal followed until 
it is now true that sheep is a prime favorite for the produc- 




(^opyriglit, 1<)0I, by tlie New England Belgian Hare Co. 

SCORING THE NECK. 

For Description See Page 164. 



FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY 201 

lion of meat, and mutton is everywhere in use. But even the 
sheep was not destined to furnish the limit as the most prac- 
tical meat producer for humanity's sake, but poultry was to 
be seen in every farmyard, and even in the suburbs of the 
city, it being the most practical size yet known — just right 
for one good meaL unless, perchance, one had a very large 
family or guests, in which case it could easily be doubled up, 
whereas you could not reverse the rule and butcher only a 
part of a larger animal at one time. Thus it was that poul- 
try was finally considered indispensable to the comforts of 
the civilized races. 

While all this was going on there had been springing into 
existence a little animal that was to be as much more prac- 
tical, even than poultry, as poultry had been above all the 
other articles enumerated. 

Three years ago I might have expected you to ask me what 
it could possibly be, but today you will not. You have of 
course heard that Belgian hare meat is as white as the breast 
meat of fowl, that it as tender as the breast of young turkey, 
which latter it resembles very much in juiciness and flavor, 
and that a better meat has never yet been eaten, unless it 
be that luxurious edible, frogs' legs. All of these nice com- 
pliments will go a long way toward creating a favorable im- 
pression on you with the article, but not nearly so far as the 
actual experience gleaned from a treat to the sense of taste, 
which is so convincing to the person of a normal alimentive 
development. 

The practical features of this little animal can partly be 
understood when one finds that it is fully as well adapted 
to city life as to country life; that the room necessary for 
the comfortable quarters of a dozen fowls is an ovei'-abun- 
dance for a hundred hares; that much of the food necessary 
for the rearing of them would otherwise be waste from the 
kitchen, not utilized at all; that, unlike poultry, they breed 
every month in the year; that, whereas you must wage a 
constant warfare against poultry vermin, nothing of this na- 
ture touches hares; that they do not gormandize and starve 
alternately, as do poultry, but feed sensibly, as does a squirrel, 
regardless of how much is placed before them, thus enabling 
one, if necessary, to give them the proper quantity of food 
to last them for some days, at one time; that where it is nec- 
essary for a laborer to perform his chores after dark 
Tiares are as ready to receive their food then as at daylight, 



202 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

and that one good brood doe will produce 400 pounds of meat 
(live weight) per year, and keep it up for some three years. 

We will not proceed further, for we know that a few hints 
on the practicability of the Belgian hare are sufficient to set 
our readers thinking, and they will no doubt enjoy thinking, 
out for themselves the numerous other features in which it 
entirely outclasses any fowl or any other animal living that^^ 
up to late, has been tried as a producer of meat. 

Several things must be considered in order to arrive at an 
intelligent decision. 

First, how much meat can be produced; second, how long 
will it take to produce it; third, what does it cost to produce 
it; fourth, what is the quality of it when produced, and fifth, 
what are the attendant expenses. In each and every one of 
these features our little favorite is so far ahead of all competi- 
tors as to render comparison unnecessary. 

I cannot refrain from speaking a word relative to the mis- 
leading articles that are sometimes seen in the newspapers, 
maliciously published, and expected to prey on the ignorance 
of persons of over cautious tendencies and superstitious de- 
velopment. It is relative to the pest that the animal will 
soon become in America as a result of escaping from the 
breeders. It is really amusing to note that there are a few 
earnest, conscientious persons who are ready to believe any- 
thing of the kind if they can only see it in print. 

I will here state that it has been repeatedly tried to stock 
certain localities with the Belgian hare for hunting purposes,- 
and it cannot be done. They are so thoroughly domesticated 
that when a natural enemy approaches them they have not 
the instinct requisite for their self-preservation, and can only 
be used for park purposes where the premises are free from 
dogs, coyotes, minks, weasels, cats and reasonably free front 
hawks and owls. 

They are, however, very intelligent, and were it possible 
for them to exchange intellect for caution with some of the 
people who now fear their becoming a pest, it woiild result 
in the betterment of both the creatures in question. 

Let us use a few parallel examples to show the folly of 
jumping at conclusions when entirely ignorant of the subject. 

There wae a time when our faithful watch dog. or rather 
his ancestors, were not domesticated. Who is there who 
would now predict that he might get away from us and be- 
come a coyote? It has not been a very long time since our 



©ffi(ial Scofe C^rd of i\]« | 

)<ational ISelfiart -ptare (Jlubf 




FULL VALUE OF EACH REQUIREMENT. 



FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY 20& 

stately Thanksgiving bird, the turkey, was domesticated 
and roamed at will over North America. Where can we find 
a person so overburdened with caution as to predict his ulti- 
mate escape from the fancier and the devastation that would 
surely follow to the vegetation of beautiful America? It 
is as sensible to ask the passage of a law to impose a fine on a 
park keeper for allowing a buffalo to escape from his prem- 
ises lest he once again become a pest, roving over the plains 
and trampling under ponderous feet the machinery and crops 
of the western farmer. 

It would be vastly more reasonable for the people of Cali- 
fornia to have passed a law to prohibit the keepers of the 
ostrich farms from allowing an ostrich to escape from them 
than it would for them to have passed the law which they 
did, for an ostrich would stand some chance of being able to 
escape natural enemies, whereas the Belgian hare, in its 
thoroughly domesticated state, together with its character- 
istics, its helplessness for 10 days after birth, could stand 
no show whatever, as has been demonstrated, to the disap- 
pointment of many persons who would like to see the country 
at large stocked with them for game purposes, were it possi- 
ble. 

It is remarkable how many newspapers and newspaper cor- 
respondents take up a matter that they know nothing about, 
and to which they more than likely have never given a mo- 
ment's thought, and yet write such lengthy and impractical 
fables as have appeared in print on this industry, with no 
evident object in view other than to create a sensation. The 
fact is that such articles do positive harm and block the 
wheels of progress by starting them to revolve in the wrong 
direction. 

An instance of this occurred on my recent return from 
England with an importation of hares. I was asked to pay 
import duty on my arrival at the New York dock. Knowing 
that the law fully covered the point on "registered animals 
for breeding purposes," I entered a protest, and was accom- 
panied by the navigation commissioner to the custom house, 
and there saw the official in charge, who said that he re- 
ceived a list of the names of animals not dutiable, and that 
although we had in every way complied with the law. it 
would have first to be included in his list, which neglect was 
on the part of the secretary of agriculture. 

He then proceeded to say: "Moreover, I hope that it will 



206 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

never be placed on the list, for the animal will soon escape 
and become a pest in this country." I paid the duty, which 
was the only thing to do under the circumstances. 

Of ocurse I knew that he had been reading one of those 
scare-crow articles and had "digested it without a grain of 
salt." I could but pity a business man of mature age for 
forming an opinion on a sensational article and without any 
information or investigation, but knowing the general trend 
of political life and the close attention claimed of the incum- 
bents of political positions, I was not greatly surprised at the 
condition of things. 

Just at the present time there is a carefully planned and 
general attack made on the Belgian hare throughout this en- 
tire country by the poultry fanciers in general, who fear that 
the meat of the hare is going to be given the preference to 
that of chicken, turkey and duck, particularly the latter, 
which class of consumers it comes in very close touch with. 

But these people might as well fight the wind or the tide 
as to flght such an eminently practical industry. The proper 
thing for all those who are producing poultry to do is to fall 
in line and add Belgian hare to their list, take an active part 
in the upbuilding of an open market for them, insuring re- 
spectable and substantial prices and thus keep it from drift- 
ing into unorganized hands, thereby injuring the price of 
poultry. 

In the attack made on the industry they have not failed to 
dig up all the grumblings of discouraged and defeated Eng- 
lish exhibitors, who have later drifted into cheaper fancies, 
and to ventilate all the complaining articles that have been 
written in California papers, either for the reason that they 
were skeptical or that they were jealous of some more active 
publication getting more of the hare advertising than they. 

As one who was there and judged their two great shows, 
was in touch with their every move, and personally acquaint- 
ed with the persons who have taken active part in their 
every action, I will here briefly tell you what became the 
matter with the industry in California at one time. 

The Californian was very enthusiastic right from the start, 
for the matter was taken up by very ambitious and practical 
people. They fully stocked the large cities very early, and 
the bad feature of it was that their enthusiasm greatly sur- 
passed their knowledge of the animal, and among those who 
took up the industry were many unreliable and unscrupulous 



° ©fficial Score Q^rd of ttje | 



J^lafional ISel^iat^ -j^are Qlubf 




NECK 

5 

SrM op COLUMN 





re. lUO 


Toial a 












































.. SltCB 





USUAI. CUTS. 

A dash ( — ) means perfect. 

For example, the usual cuts on stray hairs 

are from perfect to 3-4 ; on ticking from 

1 to 2 1-4. 



FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY 209 

dealers who had no love for the animal and no real interest 
in its welfare. These people were ever ready to turn a few 
dollars regardless of the methods employed. 

They sti'ove to mislead others on the real standard re- 
quirements of the animal, in order that they might palm off 
cheap stock at exorbitant prices. They worked their way 
into the club, as members, and soon became a fermenting 
element, and finally, when it came to taking action on the 
coming year's show, they succeeded in sidetracking the effort, 
through jealousy, and voted to hold no show. 

Unfortunately southern California has a warm climate, and 
the Belgian hare is a furbearing animal of cool climate pro- 
clivities, and a loss of animals from heat through ignorance 
of how to care for the animal, was occurring just at the time 
when the club voted to have no show. 

Some persons suggested that the bottom had fallen out of 
the industry, and a general stampede ensued, by all hands 
trying to sell their stock at once. 

Anyone informed of the geography of California knows 
that on the west is the Pacific, on the east is the desert, on 
the south is an unprogressive class of "greaser" population, 
and that the only outlet to the country for their stock was 
practically by the north. At that time southern California 
had on hand more stock than was contained in all the rest 
of the United States, and it had to be sold in a day, figurative- 
ly speaking. What was the result? Just what happened, of 
course. 

It has not done any particular harm in the long run, other 
than to create a few cold water-pourers and to furnish a val- 
uable lesson that may well be heeded by other people. Den- 
ver had always been considered the headquarters for strictly 
fancy stock, and the influx of the California product on the 
markets of the country was scarcely felt at Denver, from the 
fact that the industry was being so rapidly introduced in the 
other localities. 

Today there is a greater demand for the animal than ever 
before, which will continue as it becomes better known. 
Prices rule higher for the very choice animals now than at 
any previous time. From time to time fabulous prices have 
been reported to have been received by firms in this country 
well known to all the honest breeders and fanciers to be unre- 
liable, and this had a bad effect on honest dealing, which, 
however, the industry is able to survive on account of its 



210 



CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 



practicability. 

When I was in England in November I priced very nearly 
all the best ones there, and they ranged from $100 to $450 
each, which price has actually been paid since the Crystal 
Palace show, and the animals are now in this country. As in 
all other industries, the investigating, practical, businesslike 
man will succeed, and the unscrupulous craftsman will be 
disappointed and end by attempting to injure the industry. 



No 

Mr 

Bred Doe . 
To 

Date 

Remarks . 



CERTinCATE OF BREEDING 



This Is to certify that Mr_ 
has this day bred one Doe 



1 Sire . 
/Dam. 



Signed- 



BREEDING CERTIFICATE. 

(Half Size.) 
The breeder has a book of these cards, and when he sells a bred doe, or 
breeds a customer's doe, he fills out one and gives the mam portion to the 
customer, retaining the stub for reference. Usually breedings are sucess- 
ful, but it is impossible to tell, and in case of the failure of the doe to 
kindle, it is customary for the breeder to give another service free. 

The indolent, careless person who expects something to 
"just happen" will make a failure. To the wide-awake per- 
son who is willing to work for a good, lucrative net income, 
or to one who has considerable of money to invest, and who 
is a natural fancier and wishes to place his investment where 
it will bring the greatest returns and furnish him the greatest 
pleasure, the Belgian hare Industry offers inducements to be 
found in no similar direction. 



THE END 



THE SCORE CARD AT A GLANCE. 

LComplled by JUDGE J. H. Stoddaud. Boston.] 
The following table shows the full value of each of the twenty- 
nine i requirements of the score card, together with cuts that are 
commonly or invariably made in scoring a Belgian hare. The points 
not specified in this chart are frequently found to be perfect. 



COLOR PROPER. 



4 points 



Stray hairs 

Body 4 '■ 

tSides -* ' 

•HindQuarters -t [^ 

*Jaws 4 

•Ticking 1.') '■ 

GENERAL SHAPE. 

Body 4 points 

tFlank and Rib 4 " 

Back i [• 

Loins -1 

*Head 4 " 

EARS. 

*Lacing 2 points 

Size 2 

tShape 2 " 

ttJolor 2 " 

Quality 2 " 



EYES. 

Size 2 1-2 points 

tSliape 2 1-2 " 

Color 2 1-2 " 

Quality 2 1-2 " 

LEGS AND FEET. 

Size front feet 2 points 

Shape 2 " 

tColor 2 " 

Quality 2 " 

Color hind feet 2 " 



tFlesh. 
Fur . . . . 



CONDITION. 



. 2 1-2 points 



*Neck (shape) 5 

Size of specimen 5 



t Usually ••ut. 
*In variably cut. 



The experience of the most sclentilic breeders of Belgians up to the present time 
shows that with all their knowledge of careful mating certain points of the animal 
still fall short of the ideal specimen, although tlieir efforts have been crowned with 
success In many of the features that combine to make a perfect animal, and 
today they are producing animals that will score much higher than they were able 
to do but a few years since. In these features which have already been accomplished 
and which can now rapidly be produced by a fancier who uses some judgment and 
care in mating (together with a good quality of breedine stock), we expect to see 
further improvement made in the near future. The most perfect specimen known, 
scores, according to the adopted "American system of scoring," 96 1-2 points, being 
3 1-2 points below the "American standard of perfection." The defects that Invaria- 
bly appear In animals are; Color of sides, color of hindquarters, color under jaw, 
ticking, lacing, color of ear, color of hind feet and shape of neck. There are ex- 
ceptions to the above which are color of sides, lacing, color of ear and color of hind 
feet, In which perfection is sometimes, but rarely found. The head and flank and 
rib are usually cut but less frequently than the other defects mentioned. An eye, 
not fully exposed, on account of a drooping lid, is often punished for shape, the 
other requirements, namely, size, color and quality, usually being perfect. A 
specimen arrives at maturity at the age of ten months, andtlie standard requires that 
it shall weigh eight pounds. No cut is required for ii nimals that exceed this weight. 
Specimens that fall below eight pounds are cut two points to the pound, by 
1-4 points. Animals in a show room suffer more under this requirement than in 
any other on the score card. Immature animals are not cut for weight. Careful 
attention being given to tlie several points referred to, will greatly assist a breeder 
inproduclngtlie finest specimens, wliicli is the great desire of every Belgian hare 
fancier. 



APPENDIX A 
TO ENGLAND FOR BELGIAN HARES 

I AM BACK AGAIN at my desk after having traveled some 
11,000 miles through Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Indi- 
ana, Ohio, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Iowa, Michi- 
gan, Ontario, Canada, Ireland, Scotland, England and the At- 
lantic ocean. My trip in search of England's best was made for 
a Kansas City firm. Every selection was as carefully made as 
if I had made it for myself, and I had every animal registered 
in the stud books of England before bringing it away. I re- 
turned with the stock, gave it daily personal attention and 
care while en route, and never lost an animal. 

The importation consisted of 34 head of Belgians and one 
wild English hare, but the cost, including all expenses, was 
sufficient to have brought over a thousand good hares. 

From the great number of short-limbeu, short-eared, yellow 
Belgians without ticking or ear-lacing that had for the past 
six or eight months been imported by dealers and sold at $50 
each, one would very naturally be led to believe that in Eng- 
land the fanciers had come to ignore those very important re- 
quirements, but not so. That kind is plentiful there yet, and 
they are glad to sell tnem at anywhere from $2.50 to $6 each, 
and are not very particular in regard to just which price you 
pay. 

Of course a fancier would not pay transportation on such 
stuff, even if made a present of it, and when the insane idea 
that anything imported will do to "stick amateurs with" has 
run its course and subsided, there will be no further importing 
except of strictly first-class specimens. 

The class of persons who have gone over after stock have in 
their actions produced two evil effects, viz., that of creating 
the wrong- impression in the. mind of the American regarding 



214 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

the ideal of the English fancier and his best product, and also 
the impression on the Englishman that those dealers whom he 
met were representative of the American fancier — and of 
course the inference very naturally was that the latter did not 
know a good animal, did not know what he wanted, was a 
"cheap John" on general principles, a veritable kicker on 
prices whether high or low, on good animals or on poor ones. 
We were even told that there had really been but one Ameri- 
can over there who had shown any accurate knowledge of a 
good hare and that he was a Californian. 

One man told me this: "I was showing an American my 
stock and he kicked on prices regardless of quality or price, 
and I at once knew how to handle him. Later in the day he 
was given the opportunity to look over the same stock in an- 
other man's rabbitry and a price was set on the stock that 
allowed him to haggle a while over prices with the result that 
he bought the same bunch, paying for them five times the 
price asked him for them when he saw them at home, and 
went away congratulating himself on getting a good bargain." 

Is it any wonder that the actions of such stupid ignoramuses 
give the English fancier the wrong impression of the American 
fancy and fancier? 

On the other hand, is it any wonder that the selling of $6 
hares to amateurs here for $60 each, uniform price, with the 
assurance that they were "the thing" in England and that the 
dealer had never really seen a good hare before going to Eng- 
land, gives tnat amateur and a great many older American 
breeders a very bad impression of imported stock and English 
fanciers? 

That impression is wrong. We are now prepared to say, 
knowingly, that a fancier is a gentleman, wherever you find 
him. He knows what he wants whether he lives in England 
or America. A poor animal there is a poor one here. A good 
one there is a good one here. The best one there would be the 
best one here. 

There is absolutely no difference, whatever, in their choice 
and ours, and if American persons will use their heads and look 
at the Palace winners that have come to America from time to 
time, they will know this. 

True, the National of England has made one transfer in a 
revision of standard later than ours covers, but which we will 
gladly adopt, and on which point I shall write in full later, 
but it does not change their choice of an animal in the least. 



APPENDIX A 217 

nor their application in judging, nor the real requirements of 
the animal, and I will tell you why. It was a point on which 
they had plainly, for years, deviated their requirements from 
the manner in which their standard worded it, and we, in 
turn, had followed suit. They simply fitted the wording to 
their and our application. 

It is relative to ticking and dewlap and when I take it up in 
full I will make the situation very plain, indeed. In substan- 
tiation of the fact that I have mentioned regarding our choice 
of animals being the same. I shall bring some very telling 
evidence to bear. It is in this way: 

I soon discovered, or rather confirmed the discovery that I 
had made long since, that whoever judged the Palace show 
was capable of picking out a good hare. 

The gentleman, I found out, was Mr. Roberts, and the fact 
that he always gets the judging there shows that I was right. 
I soon discovered that too much dependence could not be put 
in the fact that an animal had won a first in any other show 
in England except the Palace. In many instances competition 
amounts to nothing in those small shows, and it remained for 
me to arrange a comparison of my work with theirs, and lest 
some critic should say that I scored good animals high after- 
knowing their winnings at small shows, I determined to make 
the test on Crystal Palace winners, as it would necessitate me 
scoring them some 12 days before the Palace show and thus 
have my rating of the animals made and in possesssion of the 
various owners of those animals befiore Mr. Roberts had ever 
seen them and before the comments and criticisms of Judge 
Mason and Fur and Feather had an opportunity to be made. 

Does any one- wonder what the result was? It was no sur- 
prise to me; in fact, I don't often meet surprises, and neitlier 
does any one else who works and thinks from a cause-and- 
effect standpoint. The instances that I furnish you are undis- 
putable and unquestionable, being contained in the show re- 
ports. Fur and Feather and on cards which I used on the ani- 
mals there before the show, and any one wishing to investi- 
gate and know the truth of it can write to the owner of the 
animals in question and ask whether I gave those animals 
that rating at that time. 

I prove it further to you and to all concerned from the fact 
that I was so sure of the winners there as to take their photo- 
graphs at that time and keep for publication, accompanied with 
their score cards, photographs taken some 12 days before the 



218 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Palace show. I was unable to remain for the Palace, being 
compelled to return four days prior to it. 

Now here are the winnings of the two fancy does shown in. 
the photographs which were published, and which were taken 
by me at the time I scored them. Now one and all can draw 
their own conclusions about what might make one judge criti- 
siise the work of another, whether such criticism is or is not 
just, and from Roberts, Fur and Feather, Mason, Ambrose and 
Crabtree, it should not be hard to determine the standing of 
those handsome does very accurately. 

I would ask you to answer the question silently, for your 
own benefit, who of the four gives the most accurate and spe- 
cific reasons for the rating given the animal and also look at 
the photographs and see how "rabbity" that most excellent 
and graceful ear carriage appears to you in the taller photo- 
graph, which is the "Wilkins Doe," winner of first at Dunsta- 
ble, first at Bristol, first at Palace, challenge cup in her class at 
jralace, 25 guinea challenge cup also at Palace for best Belgian 
in show, regardless of age, class or sex. 

"Crystal Palace show — This year's Palace fixture, held No- 
vember 12, 13, 14 and 15 was undoubtedly the best yet held,, 
the entry in rabbits, taking them altogether, making a grand 
total. Belgians were really wonderful classes throughout; no 
other description adequately represents the collection of 233 
entries in seven, classes. The American boom, and the addi- 
tional challenge trophy, the 25 guinea cup, will no doubt ac- 
count for this, but we hardly thought the quality in keeping 
with the increase in numbers. The challenge cups were also 
responsible for considerable excitement, new faces making the- 
race a tight one. In adult does Mr. Wilkins won and also se- 
cured the coveted honor of winning the champion cup the first 
time such has been offered for competition. Considerable dif- 
ference of opinion existed as to its claim for such a position, 
and we must confess ourselves surprised at such being awarded 
to her, despite the fact that she has many excellent proper- 
ties." — Fur and Feather, November 15, 1900. 

"Doe, 43: 1 — Challenge cup, and 25 guinea challenge cup 
best Belgian in the show, Wilkins the Dunstable and Bristol 
winner leading, stands on four lovely feet, full of color, which,, 
however, lacks that desirable brilliancy on top, shape not by 
any means correct, inclined to squareness, lacks that graceful 
outline which beautifies a Belgian, ears moulty, and inclined 
to be rabbity, sparse even ticking; vhc. Lumb, very smart. 



APPENDIX A 21& 

shape, nice feet, dull on top." — Report, Comment and Criti- 
cism by Ambrose. 

Between these two does, Mr. Wilkins comes in with a beauti- 
ful doe, winning third that scores 95i/>, one-fourth point lower 
than his most wonderlul doe above mentioned. The Lumb doe 
also scores 95% points. 

Here is a copy of the score card of the best Wilkins doe, the 
challenge cup winner, the doe standing uprght and looking 
toward the camera: 

Stray hairs, perfect. 

Color of body, V4,. . 

Color of sides, ^A. 

Color of hind quarters, Va- ' 

Color of jaws, i/4. 

Ticking, li^. 

Shape of body, perfect. 

Shape of flank and rib, 14. 

Shape of back, perfect. 

Shape of loin, perfect. 

Shape of head, perfect. 

Lacing of ears, i/^. 

Size of ears, perfect. 

Shape of ears, perfect. 

Color of efirs, perfect. 

Quality of ears, perfect. 

Size of eyes, perfect. 

Shape of eyes, V4,. 

Color of eyes, perfect. 

Quality of eyes, perfect. 

Length of front limbs, perfect. 

Shape of front feet and legs, i/4. 

Color of front feet and legs, perfect. 

Quality of front feet and legs, perfect. 

Color ofi hind feet, perfect. 

Size of specimen, perfect. 

Condition of flesh, perfect. 

Condition of fur, perfect. 

Shape of neck, %. 

Possible score, 100. 

Total outs, 414. 

Specimen's score, 95%. 

P. B. CRABTREE, Judge. 

The claim that I make is simply this — that hares get thO' 



220 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

same rating-, in the show room in England, that they do here, 
exactly; that the results sought and arrived at are absolutely 
the same and the only difference between there and here is the 
manner in which we arrive at that conclusion, the methods em- 
ployed in arriving at it and I am willing to tell all Americans 
how they can further test it now in short order. 

From correspondence shown me while in England I have 
every reason to believe that the Chicago show will be judged 
by Mr. W. Lumb of Cleethorpes, England, the eminent and 
highly-respected secretary of the National Belgian Hare club 
of England. (Later — Mr. Lumb, however, did not come over to 
judge the Chicago show.) 

Mr. Lumb is one of the best judges of hares that I have ever 
met. and cannot be beaten in getting hold of the proper one 
quickly. That is my opinion of him. 

Here follows the opinion of the members of their National 
club relative to the same. Their annual election was held in 
October, and the result is published in Fur and Feather, issue 
of November the 8th, page 329 and reference to it shows that 
on the vote for judges Mr. Lumb heads the list with a vote of 
63 out of 66 votes cast. 

That looks as though Mr. Lumb was as capable a judge as 
there is living, and I believe it. The point I wish to reach is 
this: Chicago holds a comparison show after the English 
plan and if Mr. Lumb judges it, you can wager that every ani- 
mal will get just what it deserves — no more, no less. 

Mr. Lumb will judge the specimens and not the owners, for 
be is built that way. 

The Chicago show follows immediately after the Boston 
show, where I shall judge, and immediately aiter the Kansas 
City show, which will be judged by the best talent obtainable, 
bince the Kansas City and Boston shows occur on the same 
dates and just previous to the Chicago show, I will ask any one 
who is in doubt regarding American and English judges mak- 
ing the same decisions on the same specimens to send a string 
of stock first to Boston or Kansas City, and from there forward 
it to Chicago and have Mr. Lumb place it there. This will 
convince you that there is no difference in the conclusions ar- 
rived at, whatever, and that the method of arriving at that 
conclusion is the only difference between the two systems of 
judging. 

With the American system of judging, the animal has a per- 
manent rating at the age scored and the score card shows 



APPENDIX A 221 

the age of the animal and the date of scoring, as well as the 
condition of the animal at that time, and also shows where 
every defect is, how defective it is, proportionate to the stand- 
ard points already allotted for each of the 25 requirements; 
so draw your own conclusions as to which is preferable; the 
mere assurance -xiat an animal wins and is the best there, or 
that in addition a rating of how good that winning specimen 
was, as well as how good every other specimen on exhibition 
was, and the qualifications and defects of every specific re- 
quirement possessed by every animal on exhibition be given. 
Answer yourselves the question, "Which is the up-to-date, pro- 
gressive, explanatory, most accurate and preferable system?" 
We occasionally see articles written derogatory to the score 
card system and purporting to have emanated from some one 
having discovered gigantic variations made by some one who 
has attempted to score hares and who knew not how. Let me 
call your attention to the various reports from Fur and 
Feather on the magnificent doe, "Furnessia." 

This doe was judged by the different judges in England and 
made her remarkable record by winning under the various 
judges, but where the report and comments on her show the 
greatest variation was when they were written bj^ the same 
man and he a Belgian hare judge. 

Does that look as if the amateur judge of America, perhaps 
the one who is doing his first day's work in that line for pay, 
was the only man who makes variations? 

The objections that arise to the score card system of judg- 
ing emanate from two sources, viz., ignorance and jealousy. 
The former is honest, the latter is not. Neither is excusable. 
One of the fundamental principles that underlie our civil gov- 
ernment is "ignorance of the law excuses no one." 

Of course the ignorant ones will soon become disabused and 
favor our system more strongly than they ever opposed it. 
Right at present those who have fought the American system 
through jealousy have done so more largely with the ol)ject in 
view of getting a few shows to judge. Well, that is all right, 
and we have no objection to their having them to judge, know- 
ing what kind of satisfaction that class of people will be able 
to give and the reaction that will inevitably follow, for intelli- 
gent exhibitors will invariably ask "Why?" and will expect to 
be told why and where. 

We note in a number of our exchanges a systematic attack 
made on the score card system here in America by some few 



222 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

people who have endeavored to get their articles into all the 
papers in the country. We also note that many editors have 
refused to allow the "cold water pourers" to cut off their own 
nose to spite their face by refusing to publish such stuff and 
cripple the industry and the system I have used in its introduc- 
tion. 

The plan has generally been to attack the institute work 
which I have used to introduce the industry by holding out the 
inducement that it is only an institution for the purpose of 
gi'inding out Belgian hare judges in short order for a stated 
price. Nothing could be more malicious, more unprincipled, 
more radically wrong. 

It is just as sensible to declare that every child who has 
ever gone to school expected to become a school teacher; that 
every person who attends church expects to become a minister 
of the gospel; that every man, woman and child who has ever 
ridden on a street car is training for a street car conductor; 
that every one who has ever crossed the ocean is being trained 
for a sea captain. 

Such is too ridicuous for me to waste time on further than 
a passing mention. 

A few of those jealous persons had used their efforts to set 
the English fanciers against the American system of judging, 
by using falsehood and deception, not knowing that I would 
be permitted to personally give them a part of my attention 
for a month and undo the slight effects of their malicious 
efforts. 

The facts in the case are these: The institute work is car- 
ried on for the purpose of introducing the industry, to give in- 
structions regarding the care and management of the stock, 
that no fatal mistakes be made in feeding, breeding, buying, 
selling, building up a practical demand at open market for the 
meat, creating an interest in the fancy of the animal by the 
encouragement of shows, arranging a proper classification at 
shows to insure success to the enterprise and, lastly, to develop 
a knowledge of the standard requirements of the animal and 
their application by the score card system. All of these things 
should be known by every one who expects to rear and exhibit 
the animal, and more than half of it is very essential for a per- 
son to be able to successfully rear and market the animal with- 
out making blunders and bad investments that would cost one 
many times the expense of the institute course. Now among 
those graduates there will as naturally be an occasional one 



APPENDIX A 223 

"Who takes fondly to the scoring of hares as there is an occa- 
sional school teacher springs up among the pupils of our pub- 
lic schools. 

Is there any one who is so shallow as to be duped by such 
argument as is used against the score card? They are compar- 
atively i?ew. The statement is sometimes made that the en- 
tire system is something new, an experiment; that it will soon 
run its course and die out. Don't you believe it! The score 
card is nothing new. It has been used on poultry for half a 
century and is most in favor in the most intelligent localities 
of our country and grows in favor as we become more highly 
civilized, better educated, more developed. It is now being used 
on cattle, hogs, horses, corn, butchers' displays, bakers' goods 
and hundreds of other articles and products, because it ex- 
plains why such decision is made; it requires the judge to 
know his business or exposes his ignorance if he does not, and 
thus precludes an imposter from imposing himself onto earnest 
persons in the guise of a competent judge. 

The leading breeders and judges of England, after having an 
understanding of the system as applied in America, agree that 
there can be no objection whatever to our progressive and 
advanced plan unless it be slower and thus require longer to 
place the awards. 

If that be the case, there would be no real objection there, 
from the fact that many of their little shows there only last 
one day and a majority of them only two days. 

However, in the shows which we attended there, competition 
was light and we would have experienced no inconvenience in 
scoring the displays in an average of two and one-half hours 
per show. I watched the process of judging while attending 
the shows there, and can agree with all the awards made to 
Belgians in my presence. However, it was a comparatively 
easy task, the competition running light. If the competition 
were very close I am inclined to the belief that I would not 
only get them more positively accurate by the American sys- 
tem, but also do it more speedily, to say nothing of the great 
advantages of the card to the exhibitor. 

All in all, we had a most delightful time — we feel more akin 
to the English fancier than ever before. While there I joined 
the National Belgian Hare club of England, and feel that the 
trip will result in mutual good to the industry in both coun- 
tries and to its commercial interests between the two coun- 
tries. In regard to the number of animals there, they have 



224 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

not near so many as in America. They raise about two or 
three litters per doe per year only, and often not more than 
three or four per litter. 

As to their rabbitries, they are small compared to ours al- 
though they are generally well kept, and we will mention indi- 
vidual ones as we illustrate from time to time. 

As to the quality of their stock, the best animal that I have- 
ever scored was in England, reaching a score of 961,4, one- 
fourth point the highest that I have ever found. I have found 
a good many granu good specimens, but they are produced by 
only a few of the breeders, the great majority of breeders there 
turning out stock not near the high average of that produced 
by the American breeders. 

The foremost breeders there appear to have secrets which, 
they do not impart to the novice, but leave him to learn it from 
experience and thus the greater number of their breeders pro- 
duce cheap stock, the kind that the dealer has landed here 
for the past 10 months or so. With us you see we have just 
the reversal of that plan. We wish to educate the novice 
through institute work, as to what is wanted, how to produce 
it, and then what we consider the sportsmanship in the whole 
affair is, to see who can produce the "top" animals after we 
are placed on a comparatively even footing, as an illustration 
I might say that in America we would not enjoy a race be- 
tween a draft animal and a racehorse, or a fight between a gi- 
ant and a pigmy. On the other hand we want to start on as 
nearly an even footing as possible and the more even this 
standing the more interest in the contest; in short, we prefer 
to see everything stringently classified and take no delight in 
craftiness. 

As to prices there, one can get whatever he wishes and has 
the money to pay for, ranging from $2.25 per head to $450 per 
head. 

The kind that our fanciers want for their own use will range 
from about $100 to $200 per head and the kind that the dealer 
prefers to buy and sell to the beginner here at a long price, 
declaring it to be "the proper thing" in England, will cost you 
about $6 per head there. I will describe it so that you will 
know one when you see it. It is a yellowish I'ed, has broad' 
head, short limbs, short ears, almost no earlacing and very 
little ticking. 

The use of such a buck in your rabbitry will undo the suc- 
cess that has attended your patient and persistent efforts in; 



APPENDIX A 225 

producing fine specimens for tlie last few years. 

Very naturally our English fanciers had noticed the rapid 
development of the industry here and the practical manner in 
which we follow it up and almost invariably asKeu me how I 
had brought it about so rapidly. I explained to them at length 
the various stepping stones of the industry here up to date, 
beginning at the time when I left the poultry fancy less than 
four years ago, to devote my time and attention to laying the 
foundation and other preliminary work of this already sur- 
prisingly active industry. 

I explained to them how seemingly slow the first year's work 
was to me after I had ceased to be one of the organizing com- 
mittee of the National Belgian Hare cluu of America and took 
up the duties of its first year as secretary; how the poultry 
press had turned me down, saying that "no one was interested 
in rabbits;" how we then began the publication of the Agricul- 
tural and Live Stock Herald, and nad the only pet stock paper 
in America for more than a year; how I have always held 
tenaciously to fine illustrations as a taKing feature ot the pub- 
lication; how I early originated the score card system of judg- 
ing the Belgian hare and how I can credit fully 60 percent of 
the success that I have made of the industry throughout Amer- 
ica, and indirectly the importations from Eng-iand, to my orig- 
ination and use of the score card; nOW my partner in the Her- 
a.a, Mr. Deva.on, served as the second secretary, thus giving 
me a much-needed rest; then how I again took up the duties 
of the club as the third secretary, and of my trip to California, 
the event of the great Los Angeles show and my first institute 
there; then of the general course of institute work which I 
have since followed, resulting in nearly iOO graduates in vari- 
ous parts of the United States, and how wonderfully they have 
assisted me in the introduction of the business, and lastly, I 
mentioned the fact that I had seen my work grow from the 
point where ours was the only publication interested in. the 
work to the present time when there are about 90 pet stock pa- 
pers and other papers with good strong pet stock departments 
in them printed in the United States and when all the gi'eat 
dailies of all the large cities in this country are devoting col- 
umns of space in their Sunday editions to the upbuilding of 
our practical industry. That values had advanced fi'om the 
time when I had taken the matter up at which time $5 was con- 
sidered an exorbitant price for a hare, to the present, when a 
really good one is worth as high as $700. 



226 CRABTRBE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

I explained to them that I really might divide my plan of in- 
troduction and pushing the whole matter into two eras, viz., 
that of the score card and that of the institute work, the former 
being really the backbone of the latter, and the matter of club 
worK and my illustrated publication had accompanied my 
every move in the upbuilding of the industry to its present 
standing, i assured them that, as president of the National 
Belgian Hare club of America I was pleased to have them ac- 
cept my application to oecome a member of the National Bel- 
giaji Hare ciub of England and s'trive to have the two national 
clubs work together for the advancement of this most worthy 
undertaking. They took much interest in the prospects of our 
coming show season and made many inquiries regarding de- 
mand and prices over here and about how long it would take 
me to introduce the business as thoroughly throughout the 
eastern states as I have throughout the western. 

Time slips away; tide waits for no one, and I was compelled 
to bid adieu to my English friends and turn my face home- 
ward. 

I left them as I had found them — striving to produce the 
highest possible type of Belgian hare for the American mar- 
ket. P. E. CRABTREE. 



APPENDIX B 

BELGIAN HARE COLOR 

IN SPEAKING on this subject I fully realize that I have 
undertaken to handle one of the puzzling features of hare 
culture. Not only are the breeders of America somewhat at 
variance as to what should constitute true exhibition color, 
but they are still more divided on how to produce the real 
rufous red. Not only this, the ticking is a very important 
item; and most important of all. has its proper abiding place. 
The one thing that is, perhaps, most of all, responsible for 
an amateur going astray on color, is the fact that he does not 
understand the various changes undergone with an animal 
from the time of its birth to that of a finished exhibition 
specimen. The true color is almost a cherry red, but has a 
golden shade of rust in the effect that is very pleasing to the 
eye. Red should predominate largely, even where decorated 
with ticking, and the ticking should be entirely absent on 
lower sides, shoulders and front legs, with a clean, red neck 
and very little ticking about head, with none on ears. 

Special attention should be given the production of choice 
red feet and legs, and a beautiful jet black lacing confined 
closely to the edge of a pure golden red ear is perhaps the 
crowning feature of a well bred specimen. 

The ticking, which consists of the black points on the red 
hairs, should mount the "color proper" in tones or broken 
waves, and should be found on the following named sections 
in the importance of the order in which they are named, viz.: 
Rump, back, upper sides. Special color sections are a deep, 
rich cream color under jaw, a bright cream color under belly 
and a pure snowy white on under side of tail. 

A dense blue under-color (next skin) should never be fos- 



228 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

tered, as it has a tendency to smudginess througliout, accom- 
panied by a cinnamon colored belly, which is not desirable, 
as it interferes with the clean-cut contrast that is so catching 
in correctly colored specimens. 

The above color requirements, accompanied by a beautiful 
hazel colored eye, and these together with up-to-date symme- 
try, go to constitute an animal that is graceful, very beautiful 
and most useful. 

My experience in judging this animal, both in and out of 
the show room, has led me to believe that the sections most 
generally overlooked, and consequently neglected in breeding, 
are shape of eye, quality of ear as regards thinness, fineness 
of bone in front legs, lacing of ears, waviness of ticking and 
color of jaw and belly. 

I mention these things, not that they all bear on color, but 
because I find that many beginners who think themselves en- 
thusiastic over either shape or color are neglectful on many 
of these points, which are all so essential to the make-up of 
a high scorer. P. E. CRABTREE. 



APPENDIX C 
BELGIAN HARE SHAPE 

IN TOUCHING on this subject I believe that we have one 
that is often lost sight of in the mad rush for color, which, of 
course, is also of vital importance. 

In so speaking we do not mean that all breeders have lost 
sight of shape. On the other hand, a very few fanciers have 
kept tenaciously at work producing what, to their notion, 
was a decided improvement in shape until at present the con- 
trast between the up-to-date exhibition animal of the stand- 
ard variety and that of the heavy weight variety is some- 
thing surprising as regards shape. 

Even the contrast between the best shaped specimens of 
today and those of five years ago is very noticeable. As 
proof of this assertion we will call your attention to a com- 
parison of the photo half-tones of Lady Symmetry and of 
Nonpareil, imported. The latter was a good specimen in his 
day and considered to have a very thin head, to possess long 
limbs, and produced many fine specimens as his offspring. 
Were he living today where would he stand on the score of 
symmetry? He would simply be outclassed. It is very evi- 
dent that an intelligent fancier gets about what he goes after 
if he has the staying qualities essential to his particular line 
of work. No occupation offers a broader scope of conception, 
a greater range of posibilities or a higher gratification for a 
devoted ambition than the reproduction of a higher order. 

No phase of hare breeding requires more skill, gives greater 
satisfaction or commands a better price than the production 
of specimens possessing really good shape. Then let us look 
carefully to the mating of our stock as regards shape, giving 
it the attention that it deserves, and in a few generations we 
will have a race of hares that will gladden the heart of the 
customer, the fancier and artist. P. E. CRABTREE. 



APPENDIX D 
THE BELGIAN HARE INDUSTRY 

MOST PERSONS are pretty well acQuainted with the his- 
tory of the Belgian hare industry and with the interest that 
has been manifested in this line, in the past two years 
throughout the United States. The matter of introducing the 
industry has had to be taken up. people had to become edu- 
cated to its care and a demand had to be created for the 
flesh of the animal for eating purposes. Without this practi- 
cal foundation, of course, the fancy would never have reached 
the proportions it has. This work was somewhat tedious in 
the beginning, but within a year after the work was properly 
taken up, there were a great many clubs organized throughout 
the United States, and the last two years have seen very sat- 
isfactory results from the efforts put forth by these clubs. 

In the extreme West the industry is fairly well introduced 
at present, many thousand dollars' worth of stock have been 
sold and high priced animals are owned in almost every lo- 
cality. The result will be that a splendid show will be held 
in many of the large cities on the Pacific coast this coming 
winter. This will complete the introduction in these locali- 
ties. From the cities the industry will spread to the country 
and small villages, and the next one or two years' work in 
that line will be taken up he same as breeding poultry on the 
farms and in small villages, and everybody will know that the 
Belgian hare for home use is one of the most economical 
products. 

Further east, while it may be that the animal has not been 
as rapidly introduced as it was in the West, it is being 
taken up in earnest, as it was on the western slope, es- 
pecially in the vicinity of Los Angeles. For this reason we 



APPENDIX D 231 

have yet many large cities to begin the industry in. Many 
of the large cities are just now taking liold of the matter. 
Those in the South generally have just begun to wake up to the 
possibilities of the industry and that section of the country is 
calling on Colorado very heavily at present for breeding stock. 
Almost every locality has its fanciers who are willing to pay 
high prices for the best stock, and prices on best grades are 
still advancing in Colorado very heavily at present for breed- 
ing stock. While the Northwest has been buying heavily 
from California, it has also bought heavily from California 
breeders. They are paid some splendid prices and have taken 
some of the best stock out of our community. The inquiries 
which I receive at present are about equally distributed from 
the various sections of the United States. 

The far East has not nearly come up to the prices yet that 
they are willing to pay in other localities, but they are grad- 
ually working toward it. At present the prices vary greatly 
from what they would have been willing to pay a year ago in 
the far East. I mean in localities east of Chicago. In Illinois 
and Indiana they are organizing splendid clubs and show evi- 
dence of having as active fanciers there as we have in Colo- 
rado nd the extreme West. There will be several hundred 
shows during the coming season, no doubt, as I have constant 
inqutries as to the subject and in regard to organizing new 
clubs. I should say that it will take about tAvo years yet to 
thoroughly supply the United States with breeding stock and 
properly introducing the industry; in fact, to introduce the 
industry as thoroughly throughout the United States as it is at 
present introduced in southern California. After that ime, 
I would say that the matter would settle down to something 
of a practical standing, and that more attention will be devoted 
to the production of meat from the animal. No doubt tiiat 
the talk that has been done in regard to canning, throughout 
the United States, will then be put into effect and the meat 
will be handled in that manner. In fact, there is no reason 
why this should not be done, and when breeders once turn 
their attention to the production of meat instead of the pro- 
duction of high-priced animals for breeding purposes, it will 
be surprising to see what quantities of meat this animal will 
produce in the cities or country where it would be most prac- 
tical to locate such establishments. There will be practically 
no trouble in getting the product together in this manner for 
canning purposes, and there are fortunes going to be made 



232 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

in the production of the meat from this animal, though may be 
not as rapidly as now in the production of high-class animals 
lor breeding purposes. There were persons in our city who 
v/ere turning their attention to the production of meat at the 
time of the beginning of this industry in our city. Some of 
these persons insisted on continuing to produce meat even 
after the fanciers had been getting very satisfactory prices 
for their stock for at least a year. One man that I can call 
to mind was still running a regular slaughter house and going 
to market with his hare meat twice a week for this length of 
time after the fanciers were selling at high prices, and v/as 
urged by a number of breeders to drop that line of work and 
enter the fancy, and after a great many representations he 
did so. I am in a position to know that one fancier made 
sales of breeding stock in the month of May to the amount of 
$1500 lacking $1.50. I know of another in our city who has 
cleared something between $7000 and $9000 within the last 
18 months on breeding stock. Now, of course, these are breed- 
ers of very fancy anim^als. This only shows one phase and 
the hare breeding for market purposes another. 

It is my opinion that in some three or four years when the 
business settles down to market purposes, the people who are 
now breeding for fancy and who have not made sufflcient 
from it to retire from business, will settle down to producing 
meat. They will be most thoroughly prepared to handle the 
little animal for meat purposes as they will understand its 
every requirement. They will have a natural fondness for 
the animal and will produce meat-to better advantage than a 
beginner could possibly do. The wealth that is now repre- 
sented in this industry in the way of high prices for breeding 
stock and in the manner of following up the shows, at that 
time no doubt will be turned largely toward the production of 
meat. At the same time enough of that will be retained in 
the fancy to make it very interesting in exhibition circles, and 
in carrying out first-class shows will proceed in this country 
on similar lines that it is carried out with poultry, horses and 
other stock, and with the fancy shows in England. There will 
also be a splendid demand, even a great demand, for the ani- 
mal for meat purposes and the animal will always have this 
basis for a good demand and market values ranging from 
$2 to $5 for good healthy stock. The class of animal that has 
for the last year or two, and that will for the next two years 
have a good demand at from $15 to $75, is the branch of the 



APPENDIX D 233 

industry that will fluctuate mostly. 

Los Angeles and vicinity, which a year ago was the heavi- 
est buying locality, has for the past six months been a heavy 
producing locality which would naturally supply their part 
of the country. On the other hand, the demand from new lo- 
calities has decidedly more than over balanced it and we are 
pressed at present to supply the demand more than we have 
•ever been before. P. E. CRABTREE. 

Denver, 1900. 



APPENDIX E 
UTILITY OF HARES AND RABBITS IN ENGLAND. 

IN MY RECENT TRIP to England I made it a point to in- 
vestigate thoroughly the utility of hares and rabbits there. 
Not only did I sift the subject to the bottom in London and 
all the other large cities, but in the markets of the small 
cities and villages as well, and shall give it as I actually 
found it to exist. 

Here lies the secret to the widely different opinions of the 
ones who have pretended to know and to tell us about the 
facts of the situation: 

First, tons of hares and rabbits are there used for eating 
purposes and are there seen on all the markets throughout 
the country. 

Second, Belgian hares, as bred by the English fanciers, are 
never seen on the open market, and recognized. 

There are reasons for this state of affairs which I found 
out on investigation and will proceed to mention. First, I 
will make the statement that about one-seventh of the ani- 
mals seen on the market are the wild English hare, it being 
there considered game and classed as a luxury, selling to the 
second-grade aristocracy most largely and bringing about 80 
cents each. About three-sevenths of the article on the mar- 
ket is called by them wild rabbits, resembles very closely in 
size, shape and color our cottontail of America, and I was 
told that about 30 percent of this class came from their home 
country, England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland, and that some 
70 percent of it was imported from Norway, Sweden and even 
Russia. These goods sell at about 18 to 22 cents each on 
their markets and of course are consumed largely by the 
poorer class of people. 



APPENDIX E 235 

Tlie remaining three-sevenths of the article on the market is 
universally called Ostend rabbit, and they are sheep-dressed, 
the ones first mentioned being simply drawn, and the fact 
that many of them had the feet cut off caused a much closer 
observation and more extended investigation to arrive at the 
particulars in regard to them. 

I found out that they were of various colors, among the 
ones having the hind feet left on. being white ones, gray 
ones, yellow ones and blue, black and slate colored ones. They 
vary largely in size at maturity, and are all domestic, being 
raised, I was told, in hutch, warren and park. A few of these 
are raised in England and appear to be a thorough mixture 
of breeds, but decidedly the larger part of them are imported, 
coming from France and Germany. They sell at about 65 
cents each, average. 

Now I will give you a few of the reasons why things are as 
we find them there, relative to this meat product. 

In England the price of oats is double what it is in America 
and the price of hay is three and one- half times that which 
it is here. 

This necessarily would make it cost much more to produce 
the meat for sale by the pound there than it would here, and 
as the price of the French and German article on their mar- 
ket is practically the same there as here the English breeder 
would not be able to compete with those products, in price, 
where fed on dry feed, purchased at market prices. 

On the other hand we find that the Belgian hare fancier 
there feeds largely on carrots, which cost no more there than 
here, and on cauliflower leaves, which are plentiful and free 
for the gathering of them for a considerable season of the 
year, and that only a small amount of grain would be needed 
for fattening purposes, under which conditions it would still 
be entirely possible for them to produce the article at a profit, 
but a person who has never been among the English people 
in their native country has no idea how impractical their 
ideas are as compared with the ideas of the progressive Amer- 
ican. 

When you ask the laboring class there why they do not pro- 
duce the best of meat by feeding the vegetables that are going 
to waste around them, they simply say, "Well, I don't know. 
I had never thought of it in that way," and that explains it in 
full, for they do actually think but very little, as a class, and 
that to very poor purpose. They drift along in the old rut. 



236 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

Now we will give our attention for a while to the English 
fancier. He is a very different person, indeed, from the Amer- 
ican fancier, in many respects. 

The latter is proud to be classed as a laborer, as one Who 
earns a livelihood by personal exertion, as a person who will- 
ingly employs himself in the production of some of the neces- 
sities of life, viz., food, clothing and shelter. 

The former, on the other hand, is built on different lines. 
You could not insult him quicker than to call his chosen past- 
time in the direction of producing Belgian hares, an industry. 

He prefers you to call it "an 'obby." If it be an industry 
and he caters to that industry, he is then a laborer. 

If it be a hobby, and he is riding that hobby, he is then a 
^'gentleman." 

You can readily understand, from what I have said, that 
his sense of propriety precludes his entering the field of Bel- 
gian hare production for practical purposes, and you can bank 
on it that if he should sell a carcass it would be classed as an 
Ostend rabbit, and never as a Belgian hare. 

On such impractical lines you will understand that there is 
no such thing as building up an open market over there for 
choice Belgian hare meat, and never will be. 

If the entire population were living on Belgian hares that 
had been produced at the hand of the fancier it would still be 
an unknown article to them from the fact that the butcher 
was selling them as Ostend rabbits. 

It is needless for me to repeat that in America the fancy is 
merely the crowning feature of a most practical industry. In 
England the fancy is the result of the favorite pastime of a 
person who likes a hobby. 

They often criticise our application of the practical phase 
of the matter as an industry and freely suggested that such 
could but result in depriving the fancy of the fullness of its 
fascination and would sooner or later defeat the prime ob- 
jects of the fancy, but I can never come any nearer agreeing 
with them on that point than I can on any other of their nu- 
merous impractical ideas. 

In regard to the canning or pressing of meat, it will be seen 
that if such were done it must necessarily be done in France 
or Germany, where the meat is largely produced, and as the 
distance is so short as to make the transportation of it in a 
fresh and unprepared state an easy matter. I was unable to 
find the article in a prepared state and am therefore inclined 



APPENDIX E 237 

to the belief that canning and pacliing establishments there 
are not a necessity to the handling of the hundreds of tons 
of the meat there produced. 

As to the value of the pelts, those of the wild English hare 
and of the best Ostends, in season of fur, are worth an aver- 
age of about 12 cents each and are used for furs when dyed, 
and for the production of electric seal when plucked and dyed. 
The poorer grade of Ostends and the wild rabbit skins are 
used only for felting purposes and are worth the same there 
as here, about 6 cents per skin. The truth of the matter is 
that although the Ostend has the larger skin, the wild rabbit 
has fur of the best felting quality and is fully as desirable. 

I found numerous ornaments made from the feet and skins 
of the animal, but such as would perhaps not add largely to 
the commercial value of the animal in considering its pro- 
duction. P. E. CRABTREE. 



238 CRABTREE'S INSTRUCTIONS 

■^ ■ ^ 



SOLICITED. 

yi/HERE CLUBS AND ASSOCIATIONS 
HAVE BEACHED THE POINT THAT THEY 
WANT THE BEST ANIMAL TO WIN, BE- 

GABDLESS OF TO WHOM IT BELONGS, 
WHEBE IT COMES FBOM OB WHAT IT 
COSTS, I SHALL GLADLY COBBESPOND 
WITH THEM BELATIVE TO THE JUDGING 
OF THEIB ANNUAL SHOWS. 
Fraternally, 
Denver, Col. P. E. CBABTBEE. 



4f ^ - ^ 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



240 ADVERTISEMENTS 

THE AMERICAN 






[ 



p. E. CRABTREE, Instructor. 



students have the benetit of oral instruction, with livins models of Belgians. 
Course extends over a period of eight days, sessions twice or three times a day. No 
detail omitted. Question and quiz classes. Final examination with test work 
scoring unknown specimens. All graduates receive diploma showing percentage of 
judgship in comparison with work of instructor, and percentage of their variation 
in test work. 

This work is i>ractical in an extreme degree and the value of tlie 
course is soon demonstrated. 

Unless his other engagements prevent, Mr. Crahtree will hold an institute 
wherever fifteen or more students form a class and express a desire for instruc- 
tion. Anybody desiring to take the institute course may address Mr. Crahtree at 
Denver, Colorado, or No. 299 Washington street, Boston, and time and place will he- 
arranged by correspondence. Terms, $15 for the Course. 

TWO OF MANY. 

Boston, Jan. 25, i90i. 
MR. P. E. CRABTREE: 

Dear Sir— Permit me to thank you for your courtesy and kindness in allowing me- 
to attend your classes on Saturday last. I was thoroughly interested in your work, and 
having been a teacher for over 30 years I think I am able to appreciate a teacher- 
who can instruct. I deeply regret that my duties at the school prevented me from 
enjoying the full benefit of your most excellent course and trust that the future may 
sometime give me an opportunity. Again thanking you, and wishing you unbounded, 
success, I am. 

Very truly yours, J. F. MOOAK, 

of Bryant and Stratton Commercial School. 

Boston, .Jan. 28, i90i. 
P. E. CRABTREE, ESQ., 

American House, Boston : 
My Dear Sir— Now that we are separating, I want to express to you my appreci- 
ation of your work. Owing to sickness and the contingencies of business, I have 
been unable to do all that I wanted. It may please and encourage you as a teacher 
to know that your educational Avork is appreciated and that your influence is un- 
bounded in the new industry. 

I wish you every possible success but deeply regret that I have been unable to- 
show you much that would, I know, be of interest in Boston. 
With kindest regards, I remain, my dear sir. 

Very sincerely yours, 

EDWARD S. PAYSON. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



241 



Field and Stream 

p. E. CRABTREE, Editor Belgian Hare Department. 



America's Magazine of 
the Rod, Gun, Dog and 
Belgian Hare. 112 
pages, illustrated 



One Dollar a Year. Ten 
Cents a Copy. The Big- 
gest value ever offered 
in its line 



MR. ADVERTISER 

DEAR Slli : 

You ask why FIELD AND STREAM enjoys exceptional 
advantages for Belgian Hare Advertising? BECAUSE it is 
the only first-class and authoritative monthly of its kind puh- 
lished at a popalar price of One Dollar a year. BECAUSE 
it enjoys a larger and more rapidly increasing circulation 
than any other loeekly or monthly publication in this country, 
devoted either wholly or in part to hare interests. 

Nearly all of FIELD AND STREAM'S hundred thou- 
sand readers are interested in the Belgian Hare department, 
conducted by P. E. CRABTREE, America's foremost authori- 
ty. Anyone desiring RELIABLE KNOWLEDGE of this 
industry is therefore attracted to its columns, and if not a sub- 
scriber, he seeks the nearest news-stand. 

The special Belgian hare rates are much lower in irro])ortion 
to CIRCULATION, CHARACTER and PRESTIGE than 
any other mediums adapted to this class of advertising. 
Yours for results, A. J. CAIIILL, 



Address, FIELD AND STREAM, 

J 3=2 J Park Row, NEW YORK 

A Choice of Six Valuable Fiainin«; IMctures Free to New Subseiibers 



242 ADVERTISEMENTS 



THE BELCIAN HARE WORLD 

8 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. 
A MONTHLY MAGAZINE 4 ^ 

Devoted Exclusively to tlie Interests of 

^ BELGIAN HARES. ^ 4 4 



TE^^ CENTS PER COPY. 

Subscription, FIFTY CENTS PER ANNUM in Advance. 

ADVERTISE 

In a Live Belgian Hare Publication. 



• • • • 



IT reaches all classes of people interested in 
Belgian Hares- — the breeder, dealer, fancier, 
new beginner, importer and shipper, and its 
circulation goes to all parts of this country, 
Canada and England. To get the best re- 
sults from advertising for the least money, yoa want 
to reach those people who are especially interested in 
your industry. For Belgian Hares "The Belgian 
Hake World" will take high rank, being devoted 
exclusively to that interest. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



243 



HOULTRY AND BELGIAN 
HARE STANDARD^ 



Tlie ideal magazine for amateur 
Ijreeders of poultry and hares 
Recognized by tlie leading' 
breeders of the world as a 
standard of authority. Handsomely printed on specially made book paper. 
Beautifully illustrated and replete with practieal and helpful articles, 
If you breed poultry or Belgian hares you certainly want THE STANDARD on your 
desk. Sent one year for 50 cents. Our "Standard Belgian Hare Book" or our "Stan- 
dard Poultry Book" will be mailed free on receipt of 5 cents postage and 50 cents for 
one year's subscription to THE STANDARD. Address all orders to POULTRY 
AND BELGIAN HARE STANDARD, Hall Bldg., Kansas City, Mo. 



Place Them in IOWA. 



Do you -want to reach the JSelgian Hare people of Iowa? Those on the market for 
stock or soon to be? If So, advertise your stock in the 

IS^ATUilALIST AND FANCIEKS KEVIEW. 

It's the Iowa fanciers' paper— Reaches every town in the state— Its special depart 
ments : Belgian Hare, Poultry, Pheasant, Quail, Pet stock and Natural History. Tnder 
new inanagement. new vigor; better printing and choicer literature combine in 
making it the best journal in the territory. 

Rates 16c. per line. Subscription 50c. Sample copy on application. 

REVIEW PUBLISHING CO., Little Sioux, Iowa. 




J. HOWARD STODDARD, 

BELGIAN HARE JUDGE, 
BOSTON, MASS. 

Gra<liiate of the American Belgian Hare In- 
stitute, P. E. Crabtree, Instructor. 

Permanent Address, Baum's Castorine 
Co., Syracuse, N. Y. 



Belgian Hares 



Disinfect Your Rabbit 
Hutches with 



Metcalf s Eucaline 



/~VNE TEASPOON FUL to one pint of water, or one quart to a liarrcl (if sawdust. It 
^^ is a thorough Disinfectant and Deodorizer, and prevents SnutHes and Colds 
and the Sweet Scented Pine Odor overcomes tlie effect of draughts. 

Sent by express for 25c., 50c. and !#!. !8« 1.7 5 gallon. 
One (Juart Makes 15 Gallons. 

THEODORE METCALF CO., 
Tremont Street. Copley Square. Boston, Mass. 



244 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




E. F, HANSON, 



BELFAST, MAINE, 
President of tlie MAINE STATK BELGIAN HAKE CLUB. 

GRADUATE OF THE 

AMERICAN BELGIAN HARE INSTITUTE, 

P. E. Crabtree, Instructor and Manager. 



Sole Manufacturer of 



Hanson's Ideal Hutch 

: : : : and : : : : 

Ideal Grain Mangers 

Invaluable for Those Raising Exhibition Hares 
Teaches the Hare to Stand and Show a Graceful Position. 
Everything Practical and Useful for Hares. Prices Reasonable. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 245 

BELOIAK H4RG G4ZETTE, 

ISSUED SEMI-MONTHLY. 
The Leading Belgian Hare Journal in the East. 



Among Our Contributors are : 

DR. B. C. PLATT, 

AVho is One of tlie Foremost Aiithoi-ities. 

DR. F. F. CASSEDAY, 

A Leading American Aiitliority. 

JUDGE FRANK FOX, 

A Noted English and American Judge. 
And Many OtUer Noted Writers. 

Full Reports of AH Shows and Club Meetings. There are Other 

Departments^ Conducted by the Leading Authorities 

of America. 



Why You Should Be Our Patron : 



Because we have the best writers obtainable. 

Because we publisli instructive articles in every issue. 

Because we print all the Belgian hare news first. 

Because we are the only Eastern journal having a practical department. 

Because we have the largest circulation of all Belgian hare journals pub-. 

lishedin iS^ew England. 
Because we issue 32 or more pages monthly. 
Because we treat all advertisers alike— one rate for all— first come first choice 

space. 
Because our paper circulates all over the country and is not merely a local 

paper. 
Because our advertising rates are the cheapest of all, quantity and quality 

of circulation considered. 
Because we give you 24 wlnde numbers for only 50 cents . Five cents a copy. 

Address, 

Belgian Hare Gazette, 

Box 2327, BOSTON, MASS. 



246 ADVERTISEMENTS 



"First Quality— The Kind tliat Takes tlie Prizes." 

NEW ENELAND BELEIAN HARE 

Company, Boston, Mass. 

Dealers, Breeders, Importers, Headquarters for Supplies. 



TVe Sell Belgian Hares of DEMONSTRATED Superiority. 
If Desired We Will Furnish Them SCORED BY JUDGE 
CRABTREE, thus Giving Customers the Best Pos- 
sible Opportunity to Secure Foundation Stock 

of Standard Value, or Stock for a Basis of 
Measurement and Comparison With Their O-wn. 

AVOID INTERMEDIATE PROFITS AND 
DEAL DIRECT WITH US 

liarge importations solicited ; our personal representative will buy desira- 
ble hares in England at the lowest living prices. You can save one-half if you buy 
of us at the Atlantic seaboard. 

Our prices for both imported and domestic stock are from 50 to 100 per cent 
lower than elsewhere 

We do not sell pedigrees, fancy names or fake score-cards ; we are willing to 
ship on approval anywhere and we guarantee not only honest dealing but the high- 
est skill and thorout-'lily tested knowledge. Vi'e lielp our eiistouiers sell the olfspring 
of stock they buy of us nnd we buy their killed me.it stock toeiiUnKe I heir pidtits. 
Express charges on stoek prepaid. We guar;intee stock as repre^ellted, or 
money refunded. 

We have reliable references and pleased customers in nearly every county in 
the United States. Canada trade a specialty. 

Headquarters for Belgian Hare Supplies : 

Pedigree Blanks, 'jri cents per 100, ^2 per 1000. 

Score Car<ls, 'J", cents per 100, $2 per 1000. 

Breediiifi Certili* atcs, 20 cents per block of 10c, wire-stitched. 

N. B.-(Tlie aliove fiiniished FREE to customers.) 

Conductors' |>iiii<-li<-s, for ear-marking, nickle-phited, with peephole to 
observe irroper i.ositiori of edge of ear, gl. 

Wo (Icsijin and print Belgian Hare advertising of every description, the 
kind that sells the good.s. The finest process illustrations at 15 cents a square inch ; 
no work undertaken less than gl.50. Send photographs of your Belgians and we 
will do the rest ; fine illustrations of your stock are worth having, poor cuts are 
worse than none. Our firm, and our breeders, are graduates or the American 
Belgian Hare Institute. 

We issue a revised stock price-list AVEEKLY ; send for it. 

New England Belgian Hare Co., 

299 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. 



APR 3 1901 



